There were quite a few questions in my earlier post about my hold-up experience at the Abkhazian border, so many that I've decided to make a new post of them.
1) From what I've heard & seen, only the border region with Georgia is dangerous. That's because the war has practically destroyed the entire infrastructure. With no investment, a Mingrelian population the government doesn't care about, and a commercial freeze on the border, it's not a big surprise that crime is high. The border with Russia is open 24/7 and frequently used, but if you come that way, you will need a re-entry visa for Russia, as you cannot continue into Georgia without being fined a hefty border violation fee. However: theft is always a possibility, also in a beach place like Gagra, and if you lose your passport, you'll be in serious trouble. So I stick to my principal warning: DON'T GO ALONE. Traveling in pairs reduces the risk of assault and theft.
2) As I said earlier, I was held for a paper check at the Militia in Gali, so when I got to the border it was already closed. It closes at 7 pm and the only notice of that is a small sheet of paper in Russian on the outside wall of the Russian barracks where your passport is stamped - so you'll hardly see it. Also, I DID ask in Gali when the border closes and was told 8pm - and I was there before that. There were supposed to be soldiers at the post, but it was deserted when I got there - the Russian barracks is actually INSIDE the border compound, so if you were caught up in a similar situation, you would have to walk around the tunnel-like structure through which you enter Abkhazia. I was VERY intimidated by the Russian soldiers earlier in the day, but they did assist me when I eventually turned up there. Well, a broken nose and lots of blood might have helped to clarify the situation.
3) As I also said, it was a set-up. The two men (who were the only ones at the border) told me they could organize a place for me to stay as the border would be (sigh) dangerous. Half-mile down the road, they paused on a clearing (there were houses all around), we took off towards a side-path and the third man with a gun came out of the shrubs. Then one of the guys pretended to panic and pushed me forward towards a ruined building at the edge of a quarry. There they let me have it. One reason for this elaborate planning might be that I'm 6"5'.
Since I was picked up by three militia guys in Gali, who stopped at one point to talk to a menacing old man in a black suit and gold chain who sized me up, I think it's a likely option that they talked it over with this guy and that the two at the border were expecting me. Otherwise, it's been a very unfortunate coincident, with me being lulled into a false sense of security by the otherwise astounding hospitality in the region. In any case, I didn't see it coming, and I've been in similar situations - there's always a moment when you notice something's wrong, but not in this case, indicating to me that these guys had some acting training and weren't doing this for the first time.
4) A cab from Zugdidi to the border takes 10-15 minutes tops and costs 8-10 Lari. At the border, the Georgian post is supposed to ask you if you're aware of the danger of traveling to Abkhazia (they made a big thing out of this back in Georgia). But if you've got the Abkhaz invitation letter, they won't stop you.
5) The only option for me to get out was the Red Cross (24, Vainahskaya street, Sukhum - not sure if I should hand out the phone number, I think it's confidential - try icrc.org). Without them, I'd probably still be there as the investigation is ongoing. I got my OK to leave from the Foreign Ministry two days into the new week, but there's no firm authority structure in Abkhazia, and the security chief made it very clear to me that I would leave only when he would let me. The whole thing lasted a week. There's also an EU police liaison officer for the European External Action Service (eusr-southcaucasus.org).
6) Yes, Maria from the Zugdidi Hostel was the one who alerted the Red Cross - two days before my embassy did. She and her husband were very helpful and extremely hospitable - I'd recommend anyone to stay at their place just for a taste of their friendliness.
Once again, think twice before you go, as being robbed is bad enough, but being beached with no papers in a country with no consular support is a nightmare.
