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In response to #9

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"joke" probably overstates it but Elizabeth Quay is a multi million dollar development in the heart of Perth that involves removal of a large park to be replaced by river and various public open spaces. It has been controversial as it's largely taxpayer funded at a time of budget stringency with the China downturn. It opened a couple of weeks ago and the general reaction has been that it's a bit underwhelming - I think it looks a bit Singapore but be sure to come and see it for yourself.
In terms of your suggestions, I personally think the dolphins are overrated but depends how keen you are on them (if you spend enough time near the Swan River you are pretty certain to see some) and Shark Bay is quite a hike off the North Coast Highway so it's not really a brief diversion. The scenery though is stunning - red earth, white beaches and acquamarine water and some interesting history plus the fun of visiting somewhere called "Useless Loop". The great thing about Ningaloo is how close the coral is to the shore, you swim off the beach and there it is. There are various kayak tours which take you out to the fringing reef where you'll probably see (small) reef sharks and turtles. Food though is expensive up there so if you are driving stock up in Perth if you have room and intend to self cater.

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11

Good to know the background story of Elizabeth Quay.

Maybe we'll avoid the Monkey Mia area unless we feel like the extra driving. We will take your advice and bring food along. Do you know much about Kalbarri and Carnarvon. I thought to stay 2 days in Kalbarri because it's near the national park, but would mean laung haul to Ningaloo. Wondering about splitting up that drive with one night in Carnarvon. My guide book referred to Carnarvon's past reputation as a town with lots of bar brawls -- but wondering if it has some charm not to be missed?

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12

I think two nights in Kalbarri and skipping Dongara and Monkey Mia is what I would suggest. An attraction I enjoyed at Kalbarri is the parrots at Rainbow Jungle, large walk in aviaries with one of the most extensive collections of parrots in Australia http://www.rainbowjunglekalbarri.com/ The national park has some nice orange sandstone gorges at Z Bend, Natures Window and Ross Graham.

If you really want to experience dolphins you can swim with them at Rockingham while staying in Fremantle http://dolphins.com.au/swim/index.php

March is the beginning of the whale shark season at Ningaloo and although it is expensive I thought it was worth it. The manta ray swims are equally amazing and a little cheaper. Turquoise bay and Oyster Stacks would be my two favourite spots for snorkeling in Ningaloo, very shallow and the corral starts from the beach. Wildlife seen included reef sharks, rays, turtles, octopus, cuttlefish, lobster, giant clams, starfish, barracuda and an amazing array of reef fish.

Carnarvan isn't as interesting as Kalbarri and Ningaloo IMHO, just an isolated town with agriculture and fishing as the main industries.

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In response to #12

Havent done the whale shark thing so cant really comment but other than that aligns with my experience

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We have and it was amazing - one of the best things I've ever done. But the season doesn't really start till April. We went on May 1st, which was very successful.

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The coastal and river gorges at Kalbarri are awesome and well worth your time but the roads, especially to the river gorges are terrible, or they were last October when we were there. Also you will not have mobile 'phone coverage once you get a few kilometres from the town centre if that matters to you. First purchase when you hit town is fly veils. They look funny but, trust me, they are vital if you want to stay sane.

Definitely take two days to get there - we stopped overnight in Dongara. Too many visitors underestimate the distances and their own ability to drive at high speed for sustained periods and our road toll for this year is already high enough.

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