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From what I understand, JJ bus (the good VIP bus, apparently) only runs day buses from Bagan to Inle Lake.

Booking agent is offering Bagan Mon Thar Express night bus as an alternative. They say it's VIP

Which is the better option? I'd rather not loose a day but I want to avoid a bus ride from hell. Please advise with any recent experience, thanks

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Bagan Mon Thar Express is (relatively) comfortable, I took that bus 2 months ago. It had also a toilet and good reclinable seats. Keep in mind that the Bagan-Inle road nowadays is faster than it used to be, so expect to be dropped off in Nyaung Shwe at 3/3:30 am. I had a prebooked hotel and the owner was nice enough to let me check in at that time for free (thankfully the room was empty). I don't know why they don't change the bus timetable, a 11 pm start from Bagan would be appropriate (instead of 7-8pm).

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