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My husband and I visited Loikaw during our seventh trip to Myanmar in February 2016 and feel very fortunate that we were able to visit three different ethnic groups before it becomes overly touristed. It’s important to note that it is quite expensive to hire a guide and driver. Many thanks to all on the LPTT who provided helpful information prior to our trip. Here is an extensive report about our experience.

Transportation to and from Loikaw
We traveled to and from Nyaungshwe taking a local bus to and from Shwenyaung Junction. While in Nyaungshwe, we reserved seats on the Pa Oo Ya Da Nar bus by going to the office of the Golden Island Cottages (where we were sent after asking). The price was K15,000 each which was considerably more than the information we had read here and on tripadvisor. We understood that the bus started in Taungyi at 8 AM and we would catch it at Shwenyaung Junction at around 8:30 AM. Shortly after we arrived at Shwenyang Junction on the day of our trip to Loikaw, an empty mini-van arrived and the driver said it was for us. Except for one woman the driver knew and picked up enroute, we remained the only passengers. A little past Aungban, the driver asked if we wanted to visit a holy cave (somewhat like Pindaya). We thought that it was strange on a public bus to make a stop for touring, but we said yes and he took us through the entire Myin Ma Hti Cave (on the LP Guidebook Eastern Myanmar map but with no written description in the text) which was very interesting and worth a stop. He paid the cave’s foreigner’s’ fee of K1000 each for us. We then rode on until a lunch stop in Pin Laung. After lunch, we waited awhile. Another small bus full of passengers arrived and the driver of our mini-van said we needed to get on that bus for the rest of the trip and we needed to pay him the K30,000, which we did, and we traveled on to Loikaw.
On the return trip, our guide for the visits to the ethnic villages took us to the bus station so we could purchase bus tickets for the return trip. We paid K3,800 each with the GanDraWaDi bus that leaves at 6 AM for the 5-6 hour ride to Shwenyang Junction. This time the bus was full of passengers (not overfull!) and the entire floor was filled with boxes that were being transported to Taungyi (I presume) so we sat with our feet atop the boxes (although not uncomfortable).
We thought it was strange that the price difference between going and returning was so great. We don’t know if we were taken advantage of or not on the trip to Loikaw. Perhaps the first bus was like a private bus just for us. The names of the bus companies were exactly the names I had read about on-line prior to our trip.

Hotel
We stayed at Min Ma Haw Guesthouse and paid $45 (though a Myanmar travel agent in advance of our trip) for a large room that had a double bed and a single bed. As others have recommended, try to get room 201 or 202 if you want the nicer rooms. The shower was very good and the laundry services were cheap. The young gentleman at the desk in the morning and afternoon speaks English and was quite helpful.

Loikaw Sights
We walked from the Min Ma Haw Guesthouse to the center of Loikaw. We visited Taung Kwe Paya (the pagoda atop two mountains joined by a man-made bridge). We also saw the reclining Buddha near it and went to the market, too.

Guides
Based on recommendations, we emailed Clement Tysi (skysnow333@gmail.com) and negotiated prices with him for three days of guide services. He was not available on our third day but he arranged to have a friend who was a guide be our guide – Martino (Htay Aung) (khunaungpey@gmail.com). Both guides were excellent and we highly recommend them. They are both Kayan and speak the language and could communicate in the villages we visited. We negotiated all the fees with Clement by email in advance based on the price list he emailed to us. These fees are listed below.
We emailed copies of our passports and Myanmar visas in advance so that Clement could arrange the necessary permissions for us to visit the various tribes.

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Village Visits
We did three separate village visits over the course of three days to visit the Kayaw, Kayah and Kayan tribes. In all the villages, the people were very willing to allow us to take their photos.

There’s a very good description of trips done by a tour director from a Thai agency to the three villages (with photos) at: http://www.remotelands.com/blog/index.php/discovering-the-tribes-of-loikaw/

Kayaw – this was almost a three hour drive in a four-wheel drive pick-up truck on a steep, winding dirt road with hairpin bends. The scenery was beautiful. We first stopped at a small shop and bought several packets of laundry detergent to distribute in the village as well as balloons for the kids (we paid K15,000). We then stopped at the Demawso market where Clement pointed out many different items and introduced us to drinking rice wine which was available for sale there. We also got to try eating raw intestines – a local delicacy.
As we got closer to the village, we saw a couple Kayaw women with overloaded baskets of wood on their backs that they had collected. We helped them get their extremely heavy baskets into the back of our pick-up truck and they also got in there, too.
The village visit was fascinating. We visited the school, the school teachers in their home, women who were weaving, the Catholic Church, and had lunch at one of the houses where we sat on their porch and chatted (through our guide) with many local men and women who came to sit there. They showed us a tattered copy of a bible in their language. Apparently, the Italian missionary priest was able to put their spoken language into a written form in the bible. We also were able to see the wooden caskets made by families well in advance of persons dying, as per the local custom.
We paid K200,000 for guide and driver services and also, tipped Clement, for the day. We also gave a K10,000 donation while in the village for the upcoming anniversary celebration of their church.

Kayah – We started the day with a stop to purchase bottles of cooking oil to bring to the village (K12,000). This was followed by a visit at the Pruso market where again lots of homemade rice wine was being sold. We also saw Kayan women (with rings on their necks) here selling pottery. As we continued our drive, we passed groups of very tall poles that were part of the animist belief. After about a two hour drive, we arrived at the Kayah village. There was to be a chicken bone extraction ceremony that day so we followed many people, carrying their chickens, heading to the site. Here we watched chickens being killed by hand and a leg bone, being extracted and brought to a wooden platform where a shaman could look at the bone and determine if the person, or family, who owned the chicken, would have a good year ahead or not. The people then burned off the feathers of the chickens and would be bringing the chickens home to eat. We were told that this event only takes place once a year. We walked around the village and saw only a few women in their traditional dress, and all with the same type of earrings. We went to a wedding celebration in this village and had a big lunch at the home of the parents of the bride. There was music and a traditional dance performance. After the wedding, we went to the local shop that had gifts already giftwrapped that could be purchased to give to the bride and groom. We purchased one (plates for K6000, I think) and presented that to the very beautifully dressed bride and groom. On our return trip to Loikaw, we passed by the Seven Lakes.
We paid $103 for the guide and driver and also tipped Clement. (We decided to pay with dollars this day based on the amount of dollars and kyats we had with us in Loikaw.)

Kayan – Once again, we stopped to purchase bottles of cooking oil to distribute in the villages we were going to visit (K10,000). Upon reaching the Kayan villages (of which there are five very close together), there was a rather touristy enclave of small huts where the longneck women were sitting and weaving and selling their weavings. They had the brass rings on their necks and legs, many silver bracelets on both arms and colored headscarfs. They also performed a short dance performance. Here, we needed to pay K5000 each as entry fee to visit the villages. Apparently, many of the Kayan women had worked in Thailand and were now returning to Myanmar since the local fighting had stopped in their home area and they were now without work. The intent here is for the women, and their families to derive some income from the visiting tourists. We walked from here for less than an hour to the first village we visited. We first visited a 93 year old Kayan woman, still wearing the traditional jewelry, who seemed to be rather sickly and frankly told us (through our guide) that she had fully lived her life and was wishing that it would end soon. We were able to visit with several Kayan women and their houses and their way of life. One woman played an instrument like a guitar that her husband had made for her. She told us that several years ago, she had been asked by Myanmar television to come to Yangon and play the instrument and this was recorded for television. We saw three elderly women sitting and working together preparing the thatch work that would eventually be used on roofs. They allowed me to sit with them and they tried to teach me how to do it. They also showed us how two women together could stamp in what looked like a giant wooden mortar the hulls from the rice. One of the women we visited prepared lunch for us and, based on our guide’s recommendation, we gave her K2000. We only saw one or two men. We did see a few younger girls wearing the brass neck rings, but were told that when they would reach the upper grades of school, they would take them off to avoid being shunned at school. We walked to a few of the villages and met our driver at the end of the day in a village where there were several empty houses. Our guide explained that many times, when some Kayan return from working in Thailand they have significantly more money and build a new better and bigger house and merely leave their former house empty.
We paid K100,000 for the guide and driver and tipped our guide for this day.

We were very impressed with our visits to the various villages of all three tribes. We thought the price of guide and driver services was quite high but it was the only option we had to be able to visit the villages. We were quite pleased that we were able to make these visits now before it becomes very touristy. As it is, groups are now coming on short visits to see the Kayan. Our guide Clement was not able to go with us on our third day because he had been previously booked to take a group of 40 tourists to see the Kayan people that day.

I hope this is helpful to those who may visit these tribes. I would be happy to answer any questions.

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I would also like to mention that I am now re-reading the fascinating story, From the Land of Green Ghosts by Pascal Khoo Thwe, a Kayan. There are many customs mentioned in the book that are now familiar to me having been to the area and visited the Kayan. It is my understanding that he now lives in the area, after having lived many years in England.

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The unfortunate catch-22 is of glowing reports of places like Loikaw, the quicker the place will change and become just another destination and over-touristic (is already happening there...that entrance 'village' for the Kayan for example)..
(I also visited the area, for 6 days, in February..)

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rivaltribal - yes, that may be the case, but I believe the high cost of guides and drivers will deter many from going there. Of course, the groups, like the one I mentioned, will come. Hopefully, they will only visit where they can easily get to and those who prefer to go where there aren't many tourists will still be able to.

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cabs...looking quickly at some of your costs...I paid 130,000 Kyat ($100 US @ the then going 1,300=$1 rate) per day for each day.....including the day we went to distant Kayaw villages...
Seems you did alright with him the other 2 days, but paying 200,000 Kyat for that first day is very expensive...

Sorry, and only my opinion of course, but I don't agree with tipping him either ....of the $100 US per day charge, he is getting $40 US and the car company gets $60....$40 for a day trip, without any overnight stay, is very good money for any Myanmar guide.
Don't get me wrong, I also used Clement, and like him (my only disappointment with him is that he likes the local millet beer WAY too much) but he is onto a good business there and seems to be starting to milk it for what he can...?

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Thank you for providing so much detail, @cabs985 ! Now I also want to re-read "From the Land of Green Ghosts", although I only witnessed a small portion of what you did.

When I was there I believe it was 90,000 per day for a Burmese-speaking guide for the distant villages, in fact we were told that English-speaking guides did not exist in the town. This was 2.5 years ago and of course the exchange rate has changed...I think that's actually about the same or only a little less than what @rivaltribal paid, which is too much to not have an English-speaking guide! Anyway, I couldn't go to the villages because I didn't want to pay that by myself and my Shan friend couldn't kick in more than 10,000. So we did a different kind of tour, cave exploring and visiting ceremonial sites (plus traditional wine/food) for 30,000. We loved our guide, though. He bought our lunch, bought tea/snacks, tried to buy breakfast, and gave us a free ride to the bus station the next day (and then succeeded in buying breakfast).

Oh, I just remembered--we were in a tuk-tuk, not a car! So yeah...in terms of value we weren't offered much, although maybe for the 90,000k and much further trip, it would have involved a car.

Glad to know there are English-speaking staff at Min Ma Haw now, there weren't before. Did they get around to making an English map of the town? It would be a helpful thing to hand out to tourists.

As for the bus, I definitely think you were on a private bus on the way there. Not sure why that happened. In my experience, the little minibus, about 3,500-4,000k price, and cargo all over the bus floor is the normal way. (ours was extremely uncomfortable, even with my friend and I being rather short). Maybe you simply can't buy the regular bus tickets from Nyaungshwe? We purchased directly at the Shwenyaung bus station.


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In response to #0

Thank you Cabs985 for such a comprehensive report! My partner and i are traveling to loikaw mid march and hope to use clement as our guide, unfortunately we cannot afford to visit all 3 villages, we will only visit 2, i was hoping for your opinion on which 2 villages to choose..? We prefer a more low key genuine experience then the bigger tourist trap style. Thanks in advance :)

Zac

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rivaltribal-according to Clement's list of possible itineraries and fees, his guide fee is $35. When we were negotiating prices (by email), at one point, he said he could lower his fee by $10. Ultimately, I negotiated based on the full price (guide and driver) and with the information I had from thrive (another LP poster) regarding what he was able to negotiate. That said, I really don't know what part of the total amount the guide takes and what part goes for the driver. I do know that in Kengtung over several years that I went trekking there, the driver costs were always a lot higher than the guide fees. I have never been able to figure out why driver fees are so high. We negotiated as best that we could. We had no intention of tipping because we found the costs to be so high. But, after spending absolutely great days with our guides (Clement and Martino), we felt differently and decided to tip them. We don't usually tip in countries that don't already rely on that custom (as is the case in the US). Interesting comment about Clement and the millet wine! We commented to him directly how much he would eat when we were having meals at the local houses!
naugastyle - yes, Min Ma Haw guesthouse provided us with a simple map. The nice guy working there told us how we could walk to the mountain temple and the market, recommended a couple restaurants close by and even made a small breakfast for us to take with us on the day we departed since it was so early (5:30 AM). In the evening, a group of young guys would sit in the very small reception area and watch TV and acted annoyed if we asked them anything. Hopefully, you will soon have a chance to go back and visit the ethnic groups and be able to share the high costs with other travelers.
Zac5 - If I had to choose two of villages, I would choose the Kayaw and the Kayan. There were very, very few women traditionally dressed in the Kayah village. We had much more chance to visit people in their houses in the Kayaw and Kayan villages. Make sure and tell your guide that you want to try to avoid being with other tourists, if that's possible. By the way, if Clement isn't available, definitely contact Martino. Each of these two guides had strong points. Martino has less of a strong accent in English than Clement and was easier to understand. Clement is more light-hearted and fun. Martino was so sincere when talking with the people we visited. It's a great experience and opportunity to go now and visit these ethnic villages.

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Neither Clement or Martino have access to a car? (also...wow, what names). That's too bad. The only times I've ever been in a car in Myanmar are taxis in Mandalay and Yangon....my trip in Kengtung was entirely by tuk-tuk as well. So it seems like the guide's fee is similar to what rivaltribal paid, it's the car & driver fee that doubled. Although, are you guys saying you were there during the same month??

The young guys watching TV in the reception area were...not staff? Just guys from town hanging out? It's weird either way...rude staff, or nice staff that let some random dudes take over at night.


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