Hi,
will fly in from Bangkok to Yangon next monday with Air Asia in the morning and try to get a ticket to Heho for the same day at the airport.
From Heho directly to Kalaw by taxi. Taunggyi and Nyaung Shwe later.
This will not allow to change money at Bogyoke market as I do normally.
Any suggestions for changing dollars to kyat in Kalaw?
Rates, places?

Rates reported from the Irrawaddy are 1325.. But hasn't been updated since Oct 15. An article a week or so ago suggested a rate below 1300... I've been told between 1260 and 1280 (in Yangon) It could be a little better than that...... Usually the rate “upcountry" is around 50 below Yangon. Sorry can't help with a place to exchange in Kalaw.
Are you carrying USD? Thats all you need for the time being, they will take USD.
But, you can change money at Yangon airport, at least at the old terminal, there are about 6 stalls selling everything from beer, candy, shampoo to gifts, as well they have phones to call ahead. I exchanged $100 USD there twice, and got a great rate of 1250 at the time (Dec 2006). Just give them time to get the money together (3 minutes). if not head to the Duty free store across the street and try there as well.
In Heho, you most likely will the only person needing a taxi to Kalaw. I hung around asked people waiting for luggage, and also outside, but everyone was heading for Inle Lake. The best price for a solo taxi to Kalaw is about 22,000 Kyat (Jan 2007), which is about $18-$19. Its a about a 50 minute drive, crap road, but nice. There was a bus we passed, jammed to the gills, so you may want to try that if money is a issue, but I have no idea how frequent the busses run between (in front of airport) to Kalaw. Its about 2Km rd just from the terminal to the main road.
Once in Kalaw, there are some places you should be able exchange money, first try the Guesthouse, I loved the Dream Villas, $15, the best room under $20 I had in 21 days. Also Sams trekking is also a cafe, and across street in the Nepal cafe Everest. The owners are very nice, and they have a pretty vibrant business, and damn good food. though the Pancakes and noodles at Sams were A+. There is also a host of dry good stores on the main boulevard thats divided, both sides have multiple type places that sell bus tickets, arrange treks, and sell everything from trek shoes to sleeping bags and blankets, sweaters and socks.
If you get a chance, rent a moto, you have to ask around, but a Indian man on the main drag rents his moto w/helmet for $2 hour plus Petro. Explore up and behind the town school, and tkae the road past the train station and up into the hills overlooking the city, where there are nice lodges and Inns, and also the old British residence of the officers, a pretty home overlooking the valley.
You can also take the moto to the hilltop, well mountain top Monestary you can see on your left coming into town. You first have to find the road there, about 3KM out of town towards Heho, then a left that winds thru a valley about 2km, and then ends at a school and Monestary, leave the moto/bike there, and look for the path to villages above, or ask...they will point you, its about a 40 minute hike, and a spectacular view of the area at the top, and the monks here see few tourist, will fix you tea, offer fruit and walk you around the modest stupas. be sure leave a donation and relax here iunder a tree and read, or just take a nap in the warm sun, as Kalaw is pretty nippy in Jan.
You can book day treks, 1-2-3 night treks to Inle Lake as well. I did the 2 night, 3 day. Excellent!
Winner Hotel on main rd will cahnge for you you will get lower rate than Yangon but they are fair and very friendly