I visited the Philippines over October and November 2015.
Tourists
The overwhelming majority of tourists in the Philippines are Filipinos (expat and locals). According to the official statistics the largest cohort of foreign tourists are Korean - but you’ll only see them in Manila. There are relatively few “Western” tourists in the country - perhaps the lowest number in all of Asia? Step even slightly off the beaten track and you’ll see no “Western” tourists.
Guidebooks
I used both the Lonely Planet and the Rough Guide. Both books have their pros and cons. For example, I preferred the maps of Manila in the Rough Guide.
Tourist sites
The Philippines was bombed heavily by the US in WWII (in retaking it from the Japaenese) and few structures of historical interest remain. Vigan (northern Luzon) was fortunately spared the bombng meted out elsewhere and has some nicely preserved historic buildings - but that is about it in relation to historical structures. Overall, there are relatively few “sites” - travel in the Phillipines is more about experiences.
Of course, there’s lots of islands - that means beaches (surfing, diving, snorkelling), (likely) waterfalls or springs (swimming), mountains/volcanoes (climbing) and, possibly, caves (caving).
In my opinion, many of the tourist sites are “over-hyped” by an over-zealous tourist authority - Sagada is a good example. It’s worth, perhaps, a day of your time (see below).
Note that the Philippines, in common with most developing countries, has a problem with sewerage disposal, so the water close to shore is likely contaminated with bacteria (swim at your own risk!) - this is true for all of the major resorts (Boracay, Palawan, Bohol, etc.)
Vegetarian food
Despite my trepidation, vegetarian (and vegan) food is not difficult to find in the Philippines. Most restaurants will do “chopsuey” (stir fried vegetables). In Manila, you can find several great (Chinese) vegetarian restaurants in Binondo (Chinatown) (Don’t miss the fresh lumpia!). In Baguio, there are several good vegetarian restaurants in the Azotea Building on Session Road.
Manila
Getting to and from the airport:
Manila has the world’s worst traffic according to a news report that I read while in the Philippines. While taking a taxi from the airport is, in theory, convenient and not-so-expensive, you can be stuck inside for almost 2 hours to get to Malate.
The fastest way to get around is the (over-crowded) MRT/LRT. If speed (and/or minimising cost) is your priority, take the airport bus to the EDSA Rotunda (its terminus; 20 Pesos) (this ~2km journey by road is admittedly slow), then transfer to the MRT/LRT (both which have stations only 100m from the Rotunda). A ride on the metro will cost only 15-20 Pesos (although, it is likely to be crowded). Note that crime would apparently appear to be a problem on the metro as all of the locals wear their backpacks on their chest, however, I rode the metro extensively and never felt threatened - it’s so crowded, bag-snatching would seem out-of-the-question!
If you are determined to take a taxi, go upstairs and stand in line to take one of the white taxis from the front of the departures area. There’s lots of white taxis. In contrast, there are relatively few airport yellow taxis which service the arrivals area. Only if you enjoy truly long waits should you queue in the yellow taxi queue in the arrivals area (of course, this is before the agonisingly slow journey in the taxi itself to get to where you want to go).
Getting around Manila:
Pavements are practically non-existent, as are pollution controls on motor vehicles. That means that walking around Manila is a truly unpleasant experience.
Take the air-conditioned (albeit crowded) metro to get around. FXs (airconditioned minivans) can also be OK at a pinch - any ride in a jeepney is slow and will see you sucking in pollution.
Sleeping in Manila:
The noise in Manila is loud and continual at all times of the day and night. Ear plugs do not block out the noise from car horns and ill-tuned cars and motorbikes. If sleep is important to you, choose where you stay carefully. I would recommend the Red Carabao (it’s out of way and thus quiet), the Red Planet Ermita (more expensive option with better sound-proofing; ~2000P) or Suez Serviced Apartments Makati (also ~2000P). Wanderer’s Guest House was a shocker for noise.
Best traditional site:
While expensive, the Ayala Museum in Makati was the best “site” that I visited whilst in Manila. In particular, the extensive diorama section puts Filipino history into context.
Mt Pinatubo
Where to stay:
You have to be at the Tourist Office in Santa Juliana at 6am. Realistically, you have only two accommodation choices as a tourist (ie without your own transport) - Angeles or Santa Juliana. In Santa Juliana, stay with Alvin. As the sex tourism capital of the Philippines, there are many accommodation options in Angeles.
From Angeles:
Take a northbound bus from the Dau bus station - don’t leave any later than 4.30am. Get off at the Caltex/7-11 in Capas. Take a tricycle from there to Santa Juliana (45min) (there will be tricycles waiting to take you in Capas).
When to go:
Most tourists go on Saturday. You will maximise your chances of joining with others (the jeeps take 5 people) if you go on a Saturday.
Journey from Santa Juliana to Mt Pinatubo:
You ride in a (worn out) jeep from Santa Juliana in the direction of Pinatubo for 45min-1 hour. Then you need to walk the remaining 7km to the crater along creek beds. This may necessitate multiple creek crossings where your shoes will get wet. The amount of water will depend upon recent weather.
Once you have spent time at the crater, you need to do the journey in reverse.
Expect to return to Santa Juliana around 1-2pm, assuming a 7am departure in the morning.
Bohol
Where to stay:
There is no reason to stay anywhere else other than Alona Beach - which has the best tourist infrastructure.
Motorscooter hire:
You will need to rent a motorscooter. It is difficult to reach the tourist sites (tarsier sanctuary, twin hanging bridges, Chocolate Hills, coral churches) in an expeditious manner without one. Outside Tagbiliaran, the roads are extremely quiet. You can sit at whatever speed you feel comfortable. I had never ridden a motorscooter before my time on Bohol.
Would I choose Bohol?
In a choice between Bohol and Camiguin, I would choose Camiguin - there’s more to see on the latter.
Camiguin
Camiguin offers the following worthwhile options:
snorkelling on Mantigue Island (fantastic snorkelling off the beach);
climbing Mt Hibok Hibok;
swimming under a waterfall at Katibawasan Falls;
circumnavigating (62km) this unhurried island on a motorscooter;
diving;
amazing sunsets.
Cebu City
The most interesting "site" is the 1730 Jesuit House. Surprisingly this is not mentioned in either the Lonely Planet nor Rough Guide. Go to Trip Advisor.
Oslob
The process for seeing the whale sharks at Oslob has now been systematised. Visits start at 6am until the tourist bureau arbitrarily (?) cuts them off (latest 12pm). I arrived at 11.30am and visits had been stopped for the day (after a 4 hour bus ride from Cebu City). You will either need to start very early from Cebu City or stay in Oslob for one night. (Of course, some days boats don't go out at all due to inclement weather).
Urbiztondo, La Union
A good place to start the slow process of learning surfing. Rack rates for accommodation are reasonably high and only some places will negotiate a lower price based on their level of occupancy.
Vigan
Crisologo Street is picturesque, but the authorities really need to block more streets off than just this one in order to showcase the city’s heritage.
Outside Crisologo Street, the city is the same noisy, polluted pedestrian-unfriendly place as most other cities in the Philippines.
The dancing fountain show at 7.30pm weekdays and 8.30pm on weekends is surprisingly good and should not be missed.
Accommodation in Vigan is relatively expensive.
I stayed at Villa Angela (1700 Pesos) for one night. These old places were not designed to keep out modern traffic noise - the noise level was crazy. I do not think that you could get a peaceful night’s sleep in any of the rooms. I spent 2 nights at Casa de Soledad (1800 Pesos) which was blissfully quiet (I had a room away from A Reyes St).
Around Vigan
If you have time for only one earthquake baroque church, choose the church at Paoay over that in Santa Maria (albeit both are world heritage listed).
I visited the Marcos glorification sites (mausoleum, peace centre) at Batac, as well as the Malacanang of the North (the surprisingly tasteful former residence of the Marcos’). Both were of marginal interest. I would also put the museum in Laoag in that category.
Baguio
Baguio is congested and polluted like Manila. The best site is the BenCab museum - which is definitely worth a visit. Find the jeepney stand for Asin 6km or Asin falls to take you there.
If you want a sense of perspective over the city, take a jeepney to Lordes Grotto/Dominican Hill Road, get out and walk along a side road to the Old Diplomat Hotel. The Old Diplomat Hotel is the shell of a former hotel which has been converted to a public use space.
Baguio has, perhaps, the best market in the country and the Maharlika Centre is, perhaps, the best place to buy souvenirs in the entire country. On the second floor of the Maharlika Centre one can find a few shops selling antique Ifugao products - these are, perhaps, better than you can find in any museum.
I stayed at Hotel 45 (1000 Pesos) - recommended. The Baguio Village Inn listed in the Lonely Planet is a shocker - even the most expensive suites have terrible road noise.
