@trjp1972
Thanx for your input. 15 days would be about perfect for the north, but does this include Toba or am i too optimistic?!
I ll sure have a look at what bangkejeren has to offer but i d'ont think i will be still around by 13th November...off to Western Sumatra
cheers
What do you want to do at Toba? If you just want to see the lake, you could travel to its north coast (to see Sipisopiso waterfall, for example) as a day-trip from Berastagi.
There's probably not that much info on Blangkejeren as the vast majority of tourists who pass through simply change buses at the terminal. That's a shame. There are at least five hotels, hundreds of places to eat and a great market. It's small enough to walk around without getting too lost and it's easy to find public transport to some interesting places, such as Kuta Panjang (for Kedah). As you'll be there in the wet season you could even do some rafting through Gayo Lues along the Tripa river. That would be an excellent way to get to some inaccessible places. (I tried to arrange such a trip the last time I was there but the river was too low and my friend from Ketambe (who owns the boat) wasn't very enthusiastic about it.) Maybe in November when I will be there again...
@trjp1972
Yes Toba mostly to get to see the lake maybe one or two traditionnal houses, stay a couple nights on samosir....BUT i am under the impression that the more experienced travelers in Sumatra seem to advise against spending too much time on the two major lakes (Toba and Maninjau) as it seems they are too touristy or lost their charm...even skipping them!?
Actually your idea about a day trip from Berastagi to Sipiso piso waterfall and soak in the view seems legit...i am just afraid i ll loose on something really interesting by avoiding Samosir altogether....it will also bring me closer to medan to fly to Padang...more days for other more interesting places!
I hadnt thought about rafting...excellent idea! Thanx again
I visited Samosir/Lake Toba back in 1992 and haven't felt the urge to return since. Back then it was very busy with hundreds of tourists staying there. These days I've heard it described as a party town without a party. I can't remember if the traditional houses I saw were original or modern reproductions, but the music/dance presentation was very touristy. There are a few original traditional houses around Beratagi (but they are Karo, not Batak).
Have you seen the film The Act of Killing? There are some scenes filmed at the waterfall on the north coast of lake Toba. It's a great film, but the subtitles aren't always that accurate!
@trjp1972
OK, Northern Coast seems to fit the bill, by the time i will get to Toba, i would have already visited the lake near takengon and possibly a couple more near Bukittinggi including Mnainjau....some choices to make!
Thanx again, very helpful
Tuk-Tuk, on Samosir, is very, very touristy. It's popular with Indonesian tourists as well as foreign tourists, and so has various irritations catering to them (like speedboats on the lake). Tuk-Tuk is the only place that I have been in Sumatra which I didn't like because it was too touristy.
If you really want to go to Samosir, there are other places to stay as well, away from Tuk-Tuk. Apparently there are some nice traditional villages around as well. But they will take more time and effort to get to.
Maninjau is not touristy at all! It was touristy some 20-30 years ago. The tourist numbers have dried up significantly since then. It sees tourists, and there are a few guesthouses around to cater to them. But there's little tourist development around the lake, absolutely no tourist hassle, and not even many tourists, at least when I was there. Very different from Toba, and in particular, Tuk-Tuk.
@Giora
Thanx for this comparison eassya, sure it will hel divide time between to the tow lakes
The toba stage is clearer now, it was indeed the stage which seemed most difficult to tackle coming from the north and avoiding the crowd... Got some nice helpful tips
One last question for anyone keen or in the know:
Where would be the nicest place to get a "pemandian mata air panas" or a hot springs experience in between North Sumatra, Aceh, toba and Minagkabau country; clean, natural setting, not too much concrete, not a pain in the A** to reach......would love to hear any first hand experience.
Cheers
There's an absolutely fabulous hot spring close to Ketambe. It's part of a river, in a pristine setting surrounded by jungle. Absolutely gorgeous. The plantations are coming closer and closer though, but the last time I was there, it was still lovely.
You'll likely to need a guide to find the place, though I have personally always managed without.
There are quite a few hot springs to choose from but the one on the Gurah river near Ketambe is the best. If you do a three-day trek from Ketambe you'll spend the second night there. Alternatively there's one about a 30 minute motorcycle ride north of there at Ai Panas, or one about halfway between Ketambe and Kutacane. Both of those are much eaiser to reach, but more concretey.