Itinerary help for Self Guided Walking Tour in Higashiyama, Kyoto

OK, I know that I mentioned Self guided in the subject line, but if someone has a stellar recommendation for a private, english speaking, walking guide, that will be great!!

We are 2 adults and 1 child visiting Kyoto for 3 full days at the end of Nov... We are taking a private guided tour by by car for 2 out of the 3 days... So we are saving the sights such as Arashiyama, Kinkaku-ji, fushimi Inari and more for the driving days... For our first full day, we would like to explore the Higashiyama region on our own... (or with a private guide, if find a strong one)... We are staying very close to Kiyomizu at
564-38 Komatsu-cho, Higashiyama-ku,Kyoto-City

We are both avid hobby photographers and love to get landscape, cultural, architecture and people shots... Below is the high level plan we are thinking for that first day, and we need your feedback... For our son, we HAVE to first go cover the Managa museum and then we can start our walking tour...

Please give your feedback keeping in mind best times of day to photograph at certain locations, best locations for photography, ease of walking like uphill or downhill, suggestions for good places for lunch (prefer shojin ryori/ Budhist vegetarian), hours of operations and so on

10 AM - Taxi to International Manga Museum
11 AM - Taxi to Ginkaku-ji
Walk from Ginkaku-ji to Nanzen-ji via Philosopher's path
Lunch at Okutan Kiyomizu
Walk towards Yasaka Shrine
Onto Kodai-ji and then to walk through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka
Go onto visit Sanjasangen-do
Come back to Kiyomizu-dera for sunset views
Back to apartment near Kiyomisu- dera

It is a long walk from Ginkaku-ji all the way to Sanjusangendo and if you want to see all the temples you mention and start only at 11 am plus want to have lunch, it seems rather rushed/unrealistic to me. Perhaps could gain some time by putting the Manga Museum at the end of the day and start early, walking in the opposite direction starting at Kiyomizudera (which opens very early).

Bamse... yes you are right... Had to start late in the morning because of Manga museum... How about this as an alternative? Walk from Yasaka shrine towards Kiyomizu dera can also be cut short and done on a subsequent day if we are too late in coming since we are living near Kiyomizu. Does this work better?

9 AM - Walk to Sanjasangen-do
10 AM - Taxi to International Manga Museum
11 AM - Taxi to Ginkaku-ji
Walk from Ginkaku-ji to Nanzen-ji via Philosopher's path
Lunch at Okutan Kiyomizu
Walk towards Yasaka Shrine
Onto Kodai-ji and then to walk through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka
Come back to Kiyomizu-dera for sunset views and fall illumination
Back to apartment near Kiyomisu- dera

Also, from an uphill or downhill perspective, is there one of the directions to walk in, that is better?
Any better suggestions for Shojin-ryori lunch?

Please give your feedback keeping in mind best times of day to photograph at certain locations, best locations for photography,

The silver pavillion (Ginkaku-ji) is only clearly visible from the NE (with a raked gravel garden in the foreground), meaning you probably want to be there morningish.

Nanzen-ji is a large complex so it depends a bit on what you want to see. For the Hojo garden (which you view from the north), afternoon should be best; for the Tenjuan (which you view from the west) noon or afternoon should be ok; for the sanmon (gate) as far as I remember it does not matter much which time of the day as it is visible from all sides.

Yasaka shrine: anytime during the day, though I much prefer it at night.

Kodai-ji: IMO does not matter much what time. They also have regular light ups in the evening which you could consider. I remember a very nice one here, where you were given your own lantern, but not sure whether this is always the case or was only on special occasion.

Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka: anytime. If you want crowds don't come in the early morning.

Sanjusangen-do: anytime, the best part about it is inside anyway.

Kiyomizu-dera: noon to sunset

ease of walking like uphill or downhill,

Except for Kiyomizudera and the streets around it, there is not much uphill walking involved for the temples you want to visit.

hours of operations and so on

The temple's website or a guidebook or the japan-guide website will tell you. Most temples open around 8:30 to 17:00, but check for each one individually.

Thanks a lot Bamse... That is very helpful!! Given the best light for photography on various spots as mentioned by you, this plan seems to work better?

9 AM - Walk to Sanjasangen-do
10 AM - Taxi to International Manga Museum
11 AM - Taxi to Ginkaku-ji
Walk from Ginkaku-ji to Nanzen-ji via Philosopher's path
Lunch at Okutan Kiyomizu
Walk towards Yasaka Shrine
Onto Kodai-ji and then to walk through Sannenzaka and Ninenzaka
Come back to Kiyomizu-dera for sunset views and fall illumination
Back to apartment near Kiyomisu- dera

We are living near Sannen-zaka and Ninnen-zaka so can try to catch those streets on an early morning one of the subsequent days...

The manga museum is a real outlier in terms of your itinerary - I would put it at the end of the day, rather than the beginning. Personally, I would recommend going to Kiyomizudera first thing in the morning (it opens at 6 a.m.). I realise that that is too early for most people, but it's the best light (the morning sun coming up from the east behind you will light up the temple), there are very few tourists there at that time, and the only people you'll likely see are some locals collecting water and monks going about their way. However, if that's too early a start, I would recommend the following itinerary:

9:00 Start at Sanjusangendo
10:00 Walk towards Kiyomizudera, view the temple and grounds
12:00 Go for lunch in that area
1:00 Walk towards Nanzenji (start/end of Philopher's Path), go through Maruyama Park/Yasaka Shrine along the way. Or, to save some time and energy, take a taxi there. The walk from Nanzenji to Ginkakuji shouldn't take more than hour, taking things slowly. However, if you want to stop in to see various temples/gardens along the way, it'll take longer. Get to Ginkakuji by 4 p.m. at the latest. (That said, Ginkakuji is also very nice in the morning, and it opens earlier than most other temples, at 8:30 a.m. I find that it is not as crowded as other temples first thing in the morning, so it's a nice place to start. So, you could do this itinerary in reverse, starting Ginkakuji at 8:30 in the morning, walking the Philosopher's Path, getting to Kiyomizudera around lunchtime, eating, head down to Sanjusangendo, and end at the manga museum).
4:30/5:00 - Take a taxi to the manga museum
Eat dinner
If you still have energy, and didn't visit Yasaka Shrine during the day, go in the evening - all the lanterns are lit up and its nice to visit at that time.

You don't mention how old your son is, but I would worry about having a full-on day like this without any real breaks other than lunch. You'll be here at PEAK season in Kyoto, the crowds are going to be huge wherever you go. I find dealing with the crowds more exhausting than anything else - just something to consider.

going to Kiyomizudera first thing in the morning (it opens at 6 a.m.). I realise that that is too early for most people, but it's the best light (the morning sun coming up from the east behind you will light up the temple)

Are you sure about this? I went there for the sunrise, but from what I remember the sun was behind the hills until late. Still liked going there that early to see the temple without crowds and locals doing morning excercises, etc.

To OP: Kiyomizu-dera (and also Ryoan-ji) have season (spring/summer/...) tickets which you can re-use, i.e. you can re-enter the temple as many times as you want on the same ticket during one season.

Personally, I would recommend going to Kiyomizudera first thing in the morning (it opens at 6 a.m.). I realise that that is too early for most people, but it's the best light (the morning sun coming up from the east behind you will light up the temple), there are very few tourists there at that time, and the only people you'll likely see are some locals collecting water and monks going about their way.

Yeah, absolutely, that sounds wonderful to go to Kiyomizudera in the morning and see it with less tourists, more locals and monks. We will have to save that for another morning only coz we will have come into Kyoto only the night before from US. So 6 AM start might be tough on the first day itself. We will have two subsequent mornings and we are living within 1 km of Kiyomizudera, so we will definitely make it a morning walk.

You don't mention how old your son is, but I would worry about having a full-on day like this without any real breaks other than lunch. You'll be here at PEAK season in Kyoto, the crowds are going to be huge wherever you go. I find dealing with the crowds more exhausting than anything else - just something to consider.

Our son is 11 years old and very well traveled with us. And given that my husband is an avid hobby photographer, whenever he takes 30 mins or more at a location composing a photo or waiting for light or something, he usually gets a reading break which re-charges him :)... And yes, many folks have mentioned the crowds :(... I guess we will have to pay that price if we want to see Kyoto in autumn colors glory...

Are you sure about this? I went there for the sunrise, but from what I remember the sun was behind the hills until late. Still liked going there that early to see the temple without crowds and locals doing morning excercises, etc.

To OP: Kiyomizu-dera (and also Ryoan-ji) have season (spring/summer/...) tickets which you can re-use, i.e. you can re-enter the temple as many times as you want on the same ticket during one season.

Thanks a lot for the tip about the season tickets for re-use... That will be very useful!! Do the ticket windows have details written in english or should we plan to use translation there as well?

4:30/5:00 - Take a taxi to the manga museum

the reason we wanted to get done with Manga museum in the morning was not to miss the sunset lighting at Kiyomizudera. Does that make sense?

To OP: Kiyomizu-dera (and also Ryoan-ji) have season (spring/summer/...) tickets which you can re-use, i.e. you can re-enter the temple as many times as you want on the same ticket during one season.

Thanks a lot for the tip about the season tickets for re-use... That will be very useful!! Do the ticket windows have details written in english or should we plan to use translation there as well?

What details do you need? The regular tickets (not sure there are any others you can buy) are the season tickets. They have seasonal designs, e.g. for autumn, for winter

BTW (and this might change your plan altogether), the main hall, which is what most people come to see, is currently (and for years to come) completely covered up...

going to Kiyomizudera first thing in the morning (it opens at 6 a.m.). I realise that that is too early for most people, but it's the best light (the morning sun coming up from the east behind you will light up the temple)

Are you sure about this? I went there for the sunrise, but from what I remember the sun was behind the hills until late. Still liked going there that early to see the temple without crowds and locals doing morning excercises, etc.

@bamse: You might be right. I think the only times I have been there in the early morning has been in the summertime - I guess my late November it would probably be at least 8 am before the sun clears the hills behind the temple. Still, I prefer it in the morning when it is free from most tourists.

To the OP: If you haven't checked out the Kiyomizudera website, they do have a photo of the main hall under scaffolding. Also, I haven't been there in a while, but the last time I was there there was limited access to the rest of the grounds due to other construction work and vehicles. The light ups do last until 9 p.m., but again, with the main hall under scaffolding you won't really get the best part for your photos.

I visited Kiyomizudera quite recently, about 2 weeks ago. There was no construction going on around the temple when I visited, and the grounds were completely open.

The scaffolding covers up the main building, meaning that you don't get a very good look at it from the outside. You can still see the inside of the building though, which is nice, and you can still stand on the porch and get lovely views of the temple grounds. In addition to the main building, there are numerous other interesting buildings at the temple. It's one of the finest showcases of early Edo-era architecture in the city, only eclipsed, perhaps, by Nishi Hongan-ji. I absolutely think it's worth a visit still.

I can't help at all with questions about photographs though...

That's good to know Giora - the last few times I've been there it just wasn't worth the visit due to construction and the number of visitors crowded together in a limited space. However, as a photographer, for me the disappointing thing is not being able to photograph the main building without the scaffolding. Luckily I've done it in the past, and as I'll be in Kyoto for many years to come, I've got plenty of time to photograph it properly when the renovation is finally done.

I was a little disappointed about not seeing the building in its proper glory as well, but I suppose it serves me right for not visiting earlier. Even the crowds weren't that bad when I went, and I went in the middle of the day. Maybe I just got lucky, or maybe the scaffolding is causing many people to head elsewhere. There were certainly plenty of other people around, but it wasn't mayhem.

I think that's quite true of a lot of places - even Kinkakuji can be quite calm during the day. I guess a lot depends if you are there when all the tour groups hit, or happen to arrive at a lull. My other issue is since I work M-F I can really only visit places on the weekends, which means I'm always dealing with crowds. As the crowds have gotten worse every year that I've lived here, I find myself getting more and more annoyed with them* (as do many of the locals), so I tend to visit off-season during the winter months when you can often get whole temples (or sections thereof) to yourself.

*The downside to living in a heavily-touristed city means I often want to avoid those types of places when I travel to other countries too.

Well I work too - and not even in Kyoto! - so I can definitely only visit on the weekends. I absolutely avoid certain places - like Kinkaku-ji - because of the crowds. But there's so much lovely stuff in Kyoto that you can do, and avoid other tourists almost completely. My favourite temple in the city - Daigo-ji - is always quiet, at least on the two occasions that I've been there. I walked up the Hiezan in the rain a couple of weeks ago, and saw two other people in two hours. And there are so many nice day-trips you can do out of the city....

I can't avoid Kyoto Station when I come in and out though, and the crowds there can be a huge pain. But what can you do?

Have you been to the special exhibition at the National Museum, by the way? I plan on visiting soon, though I've heard it's very busy.

That's funny - Daigo-ji is also one of my favourite places. I visit it often, as it's pretty close to where I live. I haven't been to the National Museum exhibition yet, but it's definitely on my to-do list before it finishes.

One thing I have been doing, in spite of or because of my schedule, is exploring neighbourhoods in the evenings (usually after 8 p.m.). While it's not possible to visit any particular places, visiting the neighbourhoods and in some cases, temple grounds (like Nanzenji), is a great way to get a more serene, laid-back experience. In light of the OP's post, I would say that Higashiyama and the Philosopher's Path are two of my favourite places to go walking and exploring at night.

I've now booked my stay to visit the National Museum exhibition, I'll be there in about 3 weeks. You don't need to buy tickets in advance, or anything like that, do you? I'm hoping to get there before they open in the morning, and queue a bit if I have to.

Yes, Daigo-ji's lovely. Have you been up to the top part of the temple, way up the mountain? I agree that Nanzen-ji is lovely in the evenings. There are quite a few interesting temples and shrines in that area that never close - the Gion Shrine, for example - which make for a nice place to wander at night.

On a completely different note - I discovered a fascinating daimyo cemetery recently, maybe the most interesting in Kansai. It's at Choho-ji, just south of Wakayama. It's home to the final resting place of the daimyo of Wakayama, who descended directly from Tokugawa Ieyasu. It's a very atmospheric cemetery, with the graves of all the daimyo right up to the last one, who died during the Taisho era. Only two are missing: they became shogun, and are buried in Tokyo.

I don't know if you've been there before moose, but if not, I would certainly recommend it. You should be able to day-trip from Kyoto if you want.

This topic has been automatically locked due to inactivity. Email community@lonelyplanet.com if you would like to add to this topic and we'll unlock it for you.