I just got back from my second three week trip in Tibet (first was last year), around Lhasa, up to Nagchu, Ganden-Samye, Reting, etc. Make sure you all use your hand sanitizer in the remote areas! I didn't one day and wound up in the hospital for four days with a serious stomach infection, not pleasant.
Because of the unrest in Xinjiang, we heard that Chinese authorities were keeping things tight all over, including Tibet, out of concern that political unrest could spread. I wouldn't try unguided travel at this time unless you get some thrill out of beating the system (or of course if you're low on cash, unguided travel is a lot cheaper). But you probably get a lot more out of the experience if you have a good Tibetan guide than if you can't understand anyone or anything, but crappy guides can result in a bad experience and big waste of money I've heard.
People on this thread have been very help to me in finding good tours and a good guide, I hope the moderators don't mind if I make a plug for a Tibetan start-up tour company called Tibet Eco Tours. It's led by a native Tibetan called Jamphel Sonam, and operated by him and his girlfriend, who is based in Chengdu, he also works with Tibet Village Projects, helping villagers with projects that will improve their lives. I researched a lot of guide companies and used this guide when he worked for Visit Tibet last year and then again this year with Tibet Eco Tours, he also freelances a bit for Wind Horse Tour. He has an incredible knowledge of Buddhism, is a serious trekker, and uses a lot of the money he makes to fund the village projects, such as a barley mill a buddy of mine and I contributed to build near Reting last winter. He is pretty good if you want to go to villages not frequented by tourists and visit Tibetan homes and stuff, hear traditional music, visit nomads, do treks, etc. His girlfriend is in Chengdu and has been in the tour business for a long time, so they can arrange all the same permits, flights, etc. as the big companies and I'm pretty sure he's gonna grow a lot when he gets his web site up. He should be able to help out a lot with permits and tours. His email is tibetecotour@gmail.com. You can also send me a personal message if you have any questions about them or want more background.
