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Hey guys, I just finished a couple weeks of backpacking around South Korea so here goes: Started off with bout 4/5 days in Seoul which is pretty crazy - really quirky, kinda odd and also huge and quite overwhelming and has a Tokyo-esque sort of vibe. Rebellious teenagers in the trendiest fashions skipping in and out of neon shops and kareoke pumping clubs then old conservative men in suits trudging to work and keeping to themselves. The city was cool though and heading up the Seoul Tower at night made for incredible views of the city in lights. At times it felt quite isolating as no one speaks English and people won't initiate conversation with tourists, if you look in their direction they just look away, they're not being rude I think they just have an innate instinctiveness to not engage with foreigners (since the korean war).

Hostel was weird with mainly older travellers and non-english speaking asian travellers. definately not the usual young backpacker vibe as in Thailand, India, Vietnam, etc and really expensive at bout $20 per night. Spent the last couple nights couch surfing which was cool.

Highlight of the trip was doing a day tour to the DMZ and walking accross the North Korean border in the negotiation huts which split the two countries in half and are the only place in which they have official communications. The entire daytrip was bizarre with the south korean soldiers standing in farcical taekwondo stances as a symbol of being ready to fight should the need arise. Conversely, the NK soldiers stand a few feet away looking through binoculars (completely unecessary) to intimidate the south. The tension was palpable but the whole thing was also a little ridiculous but really fascinating. Also cool to see the JSA (joint security area) army base occupied by US/UN/South Korean troops.

Headed down to jeju island which was an awesome way to spend 4/5 days. Trekking up the 2000m volcanoe Hallasan which is Korea's highest mountain was sick and all the autumn colours made the red and orange bushland look stunning. Couch surfed with the most amazing korean family who cooked traditional meals and were so friendly so I'm convinced couch surfing is the way to go in Korean. Gwakji beach wasd also beautiful with white sand and blue water and climbing sunrise peak was another highlight.
Headed to Busan for a few days and had the sickest time hanging out in one of the massive public bath houses with over 30 dif kinds of pools and saunas, real experience. From Busan went to Gyeongju for the day which to be honest was pretty boring. The temples in Seoul are much bigger and more beautiful and the daytrip there was kind of annoying really. Took 50 mins each way from Busan. Also cool nightlife district in Busan.

All in all an incredible couple of weeks, pretty different expereince to my normal backpacking travels and definately off the beaten track. It was really difficult to meet other travellers baisically because there weren't any! It is a weird country and I can't quite put my finger on what it's all about, I think I'm still guessing but So stoked I went so I could check the place out for myself but wouldn't be rushing back there any time soon. 10 days is probably enough to cover all that you'd wanna do.

Hope this serves you all well x

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1

Thanks for the trip report, not many young backpackers seem to come here.

I'd better not criticize your report and get called a "fullnerd" like you called the other guy on the China boards when he dared pull you up on something but here she goes.....

a) Why do you think the Koreans are so shy with foreigners "since the war"? If you read some history, they were never really welcoming to foreigners, so do you think they were more open and friendly before the war?

b) Why is Gyeongju so boring? It was the capital of the entire peninsula in 57BC, the whole city is an open museum, but maybe it's lacking the more grandiose things to take photos of like in Seoul. It's a place to be taken in slowly, not to just run around and take some quick photos. Sorry it's not close enough to Busan for you, perhaps the Koreans can move it a little closer.

c) Nice description of the DMZ. I like the "the tension was palpable" comment, luckily for you I don't have that exact same description in my trusty old LP Korea book that I can call you out on.

d) $20 for a hostel expensive? this is a developed economy, sounds about right to me. Sorry it was full of old people, even old people like to travel on the cheap.

Nice effort all the same but it would be great if you could explain how you got to those places and from where, what tour company you used so people can use what you wrote.

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2

Hiyas, having spent a month travelling around Korea I can relate to both posters. I suspect language is the main barrier between locals & travellers & it takes some time to learn some of the more useful phases. I find the whole concept of the DMZ dull & boring & didn't bother visiting it although many do... Gyeongju on the other hand was one my highlights of my trip & you really need to spend a few days there to really enjoy it. And accommodation in Korea isn't really that much more expensive than alot of other SE Asian countries, but as mentioned, it 'is' a first world country with the corresponding infrastructure to match, therefore the costs shouldn't surprise or detract from what is a real gem of a travel destination! IMHO

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3

Thanks for the trip report. I'm heading over tomorrow. Would you mind listing what hostels you stayed out? You mentioned one in Seoul was weird, could you say which one that was? I'm shopping around.

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4

Have to agree with Monkey,

There is a reason why it was called the Hermit Kingdom, they've never been much for foreigners. That said, I have alot of great Korean friends(I live in Korea).

On Facebook they have some Korean/Foreign friendship meeting groups, there is one in Busan.

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5

may i ask . whats couch surfing? sounds interesting and budget like.
great advice for newbie travellers.
would like to go to busan .

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6

Couch Surfing is a friend/travel social networking site, where people agree to host others for no money...sometimes they just have a couch(hence couch surfing), other people have beds, a floor, tent, etc.

If your in a foreign country, it could be a nice way to see inside the culture too

Busan is ok:), if you have any questions about it I might be able. to help.

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