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"(where do I leave my backpack?),"

There are public lockers at Seoul Station but I'm not sure if you can leave stuff in them for a week or more? It's also about 4000 won ($3) a day so 9 days would be $27. I'd cut one day from Seoul & spend it hiking in Seoraksan, on the 24th October, & get a flight from Jeju to Seoul on Saturday October 29 th instead. If you're staying at a guesthouse in Seoul maybe you could drop in on Oct 22 nd & leave it there for the 9 days. They usually just ask you to fill out a name tag, sometimes in duplicate. You will have more chance of doing this if you've paid for the room upfront. Btw there's nothing much to see at Jeju City, & the bus terminal to get out is located about 1 km inland from the port. I started walking left along the road following the shoreline & only found a taxi rank & tourist info office. (Taxis in Korea are cheap, btw, unless you're traveling long distances, when it can add up to over 100k won) Seoul Airport to Seoul City is 80k won, about $70. Cheaper to get the airport train for 4k 'all stations', or 13k express. There's only 10 mins difference in the time between the 2 trains, so the all stations is fine. Just outside Seoul station is about the only place in Korea where you will see beggars. They can be a nuisance, but are harmless.

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You should try to spend some time in Jeju. I would suggest staying in Seogwipo if you want to experience more of the nature side of Jeju. There are a lot of beautiful waterfalls and you should definitely try to go to Hallim beach. Very beautiful. There's a really great hostel called Backpacker's Home in Seogwipo that just opened up. I would suggest staying here if you want a cheap, but clean place to stay. Here's the info: http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Backpacker-s-Home/Jeju-Island/55604

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12

Thanks but what is the best way to go to and from Sokcho?

Is taking a night bus from Seoul the best option?

Is there a night bus from Sokcho that one can take to a city near Gyeongju, such as Ulsan or Busan?

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For Sokcho, Dong Seoul (east Seoul) bus station:

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=1113555

There's a subway (train station) adjacent to the Dong Seoul Bus terminal.

Local Sokcho bus 7 or 7-1 from the Sokcho long distance bus station to the national park entrance.

http://english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/SI/SI_EN_3_1_1_1.jsp?cid=264211

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Thanks, but is there in fact a night bus from Sokcho to near Gyeongju?

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Thanks for all the input especially chrisj. I'm going with the schedule below. Would appreciate any input on the bus transfers, including to airports since I'll be chasing two domestic evening flights,

OCTOBER 22 (Saturday) - Land in Seoul in the morning, Go around Seoul
OCTOBER 23 (Sunday) – Seoul, Take night bus to Sokcho
OCTOBER 24 (Monday) – Take beginner's hikes at Seoraksan all day (October 21: peak of Seoraksan foliage), Take night bus to Pohang
OCTOBER 25 (Tuesday) – Take first bus to Gyeongju, Go around Gyeongju
OCTOBER 26 (Wednesday) - Go around Gyeongju, Take flight to Jeju (7:55 PM)
OCTOBER 27 (Thursday) - Jeju
OCTOBER 28 (Friday) – Jeju (peak of Hallasan foliage)
OCTOBER 29 (Saturday) - Jeju, Flight to Seoul (8:45 PM)
OCTOBER 30 (Sunday) – Seoul, fly out of Seoul in the evening

Also, how feasible is it to stay in Jimjilbangs some nights? Can you leave your luggage there in the morning, go sightsee, them come back in at night?

Should I look for accomodation in Sokcho or just get out of the bus and into a cheap motel beside the bus station for a couple of hours' sleep while waiting for the bus to Gyeongju?

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The first time I went to Seoraksan I stayed in an expensive motel just inside the park for $100 a night. The next time I went I stayed at a small motel just before the park entrance, but about 2km past the YHA Youth Hostel. It was $30 but sleeping Korean style on the floor with 2 pillows & 2 matresses as I had the whole room to myself. There was a fast food place next door for burgers & chicken. There's a cablecar just inside the national park if you want to maximize your time in the park. It was around 8000 won return in 2006 ($8) but probably more now. (15k / $12?)

For only 1 day at Sokcho, I'd get a motel at Sokcho bus terminal & leave your luggage there, just taking a daypack, small bottle of water & a camera. I've stayed there one night & it was fine. Bus 7 or 7-1 goes to the national park. You might have to walk around the corner from the bus terminal for local bus 7 / 7-1.

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Do you recommend booking at motels beside bus stops or literally just walk in late at night and get a room?

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Just walk into any motel near the bus station, & ask to see the room (they will be spartan & not luxurious, but I usually just check that the hot water is connected & the room is clean) Often they will hand you a packet containing toothbrush, toothpaste, shaver etc.

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Can I get input on how to arrange my itinerary within Seoul? It's a bit funny because I fly into Seoul Saturday morning (October 22), have one real night in Seoul, then catch an express bus to Sokcho after sunset on Sunday. I then return to Seoul late the next Saturday and fly out of the country at 7:30 PM on Sunday.

I think October 22 will be spent in Gwanghwamun, then in Hongdae later in the afternoon and Namsan in the evening. As I only have one real night in Seoul, I might book a relatively nice dinner at Korea House (unless you have a better recommendation for a nice dinner than Lonely Planet) then take a quick trip up Seoul Tower and walk around Namsan.

For Gwanghawmun and surrounds, I want to see Changdeokgung (hours now less strict), Jongmyo, Changgyeonggun, Bukchon Hanok, Gyeongbokgung, Cheong-gye-cheon and Deoksugung.

October 23 will be spent finishing off the sights in Gwahnghwamun and trying to see some of the other sights such as Inwangsan, Dongdaemun Park and one of the markets (do you recommend Namdaemun, Gwangjang or Noryangjin to see a a fun Seoul wet market)? Then I head to the Express Bus Station after sunset to catch a late bus to Sokcho.

October 29, I fly back into Seoul from Jeju and arrive late at night. I will probably decide between seeing a jimjilbang or seeing Hongdae at night.

October 30, I will see whatever I didn't get to see in Seoul plus see a little of the museums (Leeum Samsung, National and the War Museums).

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