Having traveled by train from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar, I was happy to act on the recommendation of a fellow traveler I had met on the train. She suggested the Golden Gobi Guesthouse. At the time, I had actually made prior arrangements to stay with a Korean Co-Op Guesthouse, but the thought of staying with a Mongolian Family operated establishment seemed much more appealing, and to have been suggested this hostel by a traveler who had stayed there previously was a big plus. Once our train arrived, there was a great welcoming party and a mini-van waiting to swiftly take us to the Guesthouse. Once there, the family was very welcoming and hospitable, and since it was shoulder season (Winter/Spring) we found the hostel to be a good mix of travelers that were not simply making Mongolia a notch in their passports. Actually, most of the guests were staying on, breaking away from their original itineraries and extending their time in both Ulaanbaatar and the Golden Gobi, so that was another favorable sign. Inside, the Golden Gobi is very clean, and I must say that it is cleaned top to bottom every single day. The setup is pretty standard, mixed dorm double bunks $5US per night, or for twice the price your very own en-suite $10US per night, breakfast included (bread w/ jam and tea/coffee). Oh, and shoes come off in the entry way, so you've been warned.
Now, the famous or infamous "Mama" who is the Matriarch of the clan, was super kind, patient and an all around gentle soul. After all, she was a former contortionist and coach. In anycase, her daughter Oogi, takes the lead in most business dealings including visa extensions and train tickets, and the front desk manager Soko handles most of the e-mail and phones during the day. Akoush the younger sister of Oogi contributes with her language talents, speaking more tongues than I can count, and their brother, who's name escapes me, is the handyman of the house, as well as driver. Now, with respect to the family, there are a few sisters I am not mentioning since I had little interaction with them. So, how does the family fit with this guesthouse? Like a glove. The family is just that, they are operating a family business. There's loads of competition in Ulaanbaatar, especially in the off season, and Oogi and Akoush scour the train station every morning for the hap-chance traveler. It's pretty fierce. With that said, at first glance, the sisters come across a bit cool, very business like, but give them credit, you can't operate a business with your feelings. So early on, I was often referred to as "You!" ... let's see how many Mongolian names you can remember, let alone nicknames! However, since I stayed in Mongolia for over a one month period, that eventually changed. Mongolian's have thick skin, are direct, and can be a little rough at times (oh, how many must I wrestle?) but because of this, they are very forgiving and warm up quickly.
So for the period of my stay, I eventually booked a seven day tour, which is where the guesthouse really excels, but everything being what it is, all inclusive, all meals ... et all. I can't complain, it's the most expensive part of Mongolia, but still a bargain. If you get a chance, I highly recommend that choose Alma as your guide, she's the best, the best cook, the best everything, very sweet and thoughtful. Also, my favorite driver, Bai-la or is it Bai-ta (one word means thank you, the other is his name!) is simply great. He knows how to drive, and is also very considerate and really a Champ! Not to mention, he's a big boy ready to fight for the right causes, if need be. Anyways, payment is required in advance for the excursions. However, payment for staying at the guesthouse wasn't asked of me until the very last day, even though I offered many times to pay in advance. That said, and though it was the off-season, sometimes, guests had to be turned away since the hostel was full. Also, as a side note, Visa extensions are inexpensive, and I was able to go with Oogi as she sorted out many other traveler's Visas and extensions. Credit to the official who processed mine. He Photoshopped a scan of my passport photo since I didn't have any more extra photos, awesome! So what does this mean? It's a good idea to bring extra passport photos for this process, so heads up!
Staying at the Golden Gobi, in Ulaanbaatar for more than a month gives me a few ideas about the people, the place. Unlike Beijing, no one in UB is going to try to trick you and rob you blind, and really, you'll only need to negotiate in the Black Market, only if you want. Sure, there are some that'll try to pick pocket you, and having been to the Black Market more times than I can count, I saw a fair share of this type of Shenanigan. Imagine, having a few bucks in your front breast pocket, buttoned down, and suddenly realizing it's gone. That's just one example of a fellow traveler I'd gone to the Black Market with, she was really upset, but it was only $2US. Of course, there are the other stories of me publicly humiliating would be thieves! They may not have understood the words I said, but the grip around their scruff and the harsh really of being caught isn't pleasant when someone's yelling at you a centimeter from your face. Oh the SHAME! Now, I did have my own run ins with a few drunks, demanding $1US a few times, with empty threats of calling the cops. This should not be encouraged. They did not get my dollar. So, don't any of you do such a disservice to fellow travelers by paying off these fools. Instead, give candy or toothpaste, as you may be inclined to the children begging. I prefer giving candy, you can purchase a large bag at the State Department Store, which just happens to be a two minute walk from the Golden Gobi. It's not the cheapest place to shop, especially for groceries. There are cheaper places, and I'd say it's even less expensive to simply dine out every day!
Anyways, back to the Golden Gobi, I understand that some travelers have complained about laundry this, or jam that ... whatever! Do your own freaking laundry if you can't handle a little energy conservation. I never had them do my laundry, handwashing as I normally do, so any loss or mixups never happen. Oh, and if you are a heavy traveler (I travel light, single bag, less than 5 kilos) then the guesthouse has a locked up closet for your gear. There is also internet access, and many power outlets. I also drank the water from the tap with no problem, it's delicious. However, do as you like. The guesthouse also has two showers, actually three, but two of the three are in the same room, so unless your comfortable ... well, do as you see fit. There are full kitchen privileges, though storing food in the fridge can become a bit crowded, and don't be surprised if a few things go missing now and again, people come home drunk, get hungry, well, that's how it goes sometimes. Most vegetarians preferred to cook their meals, as did I. There's a rice cooker, microwave, stove top, and some serious eating can be had with a touch of creativity. Remember, Mongolia is a kind of Mutton and Noodles country, just so you know. Mongolians do not believe in killing animals when they are young. Also, in town, you have many food options, though not all budget gourmet.
Now, all the rooms are located on the first level, downstairs is the so-called "chill lounge" ... basically, a TV rooms with 100s of movies. Hey, I must have contributed a good handful myself. Anyways, it's nice to relax after hiking all over, and just chat with other travelers. Great times, and if I can mention here, the majority of the travelers I encountered were from Australia, Germany and France, with a fair mix from other European countries, including a few families with children in tow. I didn't meet many Americans in my entire one month stay, but found a few interesting Japanese and Swedish travelers to round out the mix, and I'll argue that there's a good bit of Expats teaching English and whatnot, so if you're there long enough, you're bound to cross paths.
Let me just say a few more things about the staff. Having stayed as I did, saying goodbye is never easy. I saw many tears shed between travelers and staff, and because of this I understand why the Golden Gobi staff may not be buddy-buddy the first time you meet them. It's reasonable. This isn't the 5 star Shangri-la Hotel were talking about, but a modest guesthouse, run by a modest family. The line is often blurred between business and living life, especially when you're a guesthouse operator. I mean, the sisters were not adverse to go to clubs with the guests, or share a meal or even wrestle! However, to simply think that they only do these things because it's good for business is plain wrong. This is their life, and we are their guests. Regardless of what any other traveler says, I believe that the Golden Gobi is what it is: a cozy family run guesthouse that does their best to balance business and family life.
