Yaeyama/Okinawa/Iriomote Quesitons

I usually use Yahoo Japan weather because it has the most detail about Japan.

http://weather.yahoo.co.jp/weather/<BR><BR>Its in Japanese but the maps and symbols make it pretty easy to understand. But Im sure a google would turn up some English weather sites too though

Hey all -

What a useful post!! Really great advice.

Can anyone tell me what the weather should be like in this region in December? I am thinking it must be around 20 degrees (maximum) centigrade?

Where are the best areas to visit at that time of year? We would certainly prefer to be coming in Summer but unfortunately this is the only time we can get there.

Thanks!

Emily

interested in this thread.

Yaeyama/Sakishima ( Ishigaki and Miyako) Island Groups...recently (the last 2 years) have been quite warm in December! 25+ C has not been at all unusual...night time should cool down to 20...the weather has been quite changeable...so it could also drop into the teens but that is more common in Jan. and especially Feb.

I would recommend being prepared for very changeable conditions...source is a Miyako shimagaijin...or long time foreign-born islander, yours truly.

Can I ask some questions too? :)

1 So to get to any of the other islands you have to fly from Naha? is that correct? How much is one of these flights return?
2 and if you want to go to Iriomote or Miyaki you have to fly from Naha to Ishigaki then to those?
3. Which is nicer out of Ishigaki, Iriomote and Miyaki?
4 It seems iriomote is the most remote.. but also very tropical jungley like?? I hate bugs.. will there be lots of bugs there?
5 Just to make sure, there is no malaria, dengue fever, or Jap encephalitis in Okinawa right?
6 Are there decent resorts on Miyako or Iriomote?
7 Are there any locally-run English language websites at all? about things to do there?

thanks

Probably leaning towards Ishigaki.. are there more than 3 hotels there?? the Nikko, ANA and Sleep Inn are the ones that keep showing up in my searches. Sleep Inn seems cheapish, Nikko mid range (although still around $200) and ANA exhorbitant ($4-500).

Are there any more choices than those 3?

Am I right in saying the Nikko is not even on the beach?

thanks.

Just got back from the Yaeyamas, had a great time. Stayed in Hateruma for Mushama (Aug 26th this year, great festival), saw Angama festival in Ishigaki on the 25th, was even invited to tag along and dance in Kohama in a daytime "let's go to people's home and dance for Obon" morning. I'm less interested in relaxing at beaches since I live by one at home, so I kind of went around island hopping a bit, exploring and doing a lot of bike and scooter riding. Just some general impressions on the Yaeyama islands I went to. Note that I can speak some Japanese and it definitely helps down there, but even if you can't you can still get by OK. For accomodations, I called ahead (especially because I wanted to be in certain islands for festival dates). If you don't have a Japanese phone number (they always ask for a phone number) since I was calling 2 months in advance, I told each place I'd call the day before to confirm I'd show up (as foreigners often cancel without notice, and especially during peak travel season, it makes some minshuku owners wary if you don't have a phone number they can contact you at). This worked fine, and I never had a problem.
I flew directly into Ishigaki (bypassing Naha until the end) and immediately headed to Kuroshima. The ferries run pretty frequent between the islands (usually from about 7:30am to 5:30pm) though with few exceptions, if you want to go between islands, you have to go back to Ishigaki each time. If you buy a round-trip ticket it's a little less than two one-ways (and the return is open for 30 days). Note there are two ferry companies (Anei Kankou and Yaeyama Kankou). Their websites list the schedules, but they're in Japanese. Still, good reference with schedules and prices.
Anei Ferry
Yaeyama Kankou Ferry: Yaeyama Ferry

So after arriving at Ishigaki in the morning (rain) I went immediately to Kuroshima. Kuroshima is pretty much "cow island." There are 200 people and over 2,000 cows. Not much to do here, but lots of cows in pastures.. but it is flat (making it easy to bike around) and actually had the BEST snorkling beaches of the islands I tried (next best would be Hatoma). Stayed at a great Minshuku here (non-smoking! Yay! A rarity!) owned by an ex-Tokyo-ite who decided to get away from it all and set up an inn in Kuroshima.
Nakata-sou. Price was about Y5,500 (which included two meals, and he has free bike rental). By the way, at most of these places, if you ask them to meet you at the port, they will. Not a bad idea. Call them the day before (or that day) and tell them what ferry you'll be arriving on and they'll pick you up at the port. Cycled around the small, flat island, taking in the cows, met the local schoolteacher, went for some good snorkling, enjoyed the minshiku guests at night.

Next day took early ferry back to Ishigaki so I could catch the morning ferry to Hatoma. Hatoma is a tiny island off of Iriomote that has only 60-70 people. Yet it turned out to be one of my favorites. Has everything in a tiny island. Great beach, super clear water, nice snorkling, giant coconut crabs, nice lighthouse with view, friendly people, traditional homes in traditional style -- and the few people that visit the island seem to be others who have discovered it (Japanese) who come repeatedly back over the years. Here stayed at a minshuku called "Maitouze" Maitouze Though it's actually pronounced "Mai-too-zeh" instead of "Mai-Tou-zeh" in the local dialect. All minshukus were about the same price (around Y5000-5500 with meals, a bit less without meals). If you don't want meals (want lodging only) say "sudomari" but I think it's a good idea to at least get dinner (I usually got dinner, and about half the time breakfast too). There's a nice inner-island walk (though the island IS tiny) past the lighthouse that cuts directly across the island (lots of brush) and you can always walk around the island. Once of the nicest beaches is at the opposite end of the island (right at the "top", where the inner-island walk ends). Small, secluded cove. Nice. Eveyrone likes their home-made sake on this island. Misc footnote: the school is something of a tourist attraction here, as it (and the island) was the setting for a Japanese drama called "Ruri no Shima" a few years ago (Ruri's Island) about a girl from Tokyo who goes to live on the island.

Next, managed to get the once-daily ferry directly from Hatoma (which is close to Iriomote) to Iriomote (without having to go back to Ishigaki). Note you can either take the faster "normal" ferry, or there IS a cargo ferry (called "paikaji") if you are taking a motorcycle with you (or you want to save a dollar or two). However on this day both the paikaji ferry and normal ferries were 20-30 mins late (unusual). So then I went to Iriomote. Here on Iriomote it's best to rent a scooter. Cars are too $$, and Iriomote is much too big an island to see by bicycle (unless you have plenty of time). Scooter rental here they didn't even ask for an international license (they did on Kohama) and the general feel of the islands is much more relaxed. Not at ONE Minshuku down in the Yaeyamas did they ask to see my passport (a Japanese law for foreigners -- every other place in Japan for the previous months asked for the passport) which made it feel quite nice. But I digress. So I took the ferry into Uehara port (there are 3 ports you can go into in Iriomote). I picked Uehara becuase (a) the ferry from Hatoma goes there and (b) it's close to Urauchigawa river, where I wanted to be the next morning. I found a nice place (Kampire-sou, that has an excellent English-language webpage on their place as well as general Iriomote information too -- even though no one there speaks English!) But someone made it up in English, and it's worth looking at for great information: Kanpira-sou. Here I got "sudomari" (no meals) and it was around Y4700 I think. The people helping were "summer helpers" from Tokyo who worked at the inn in exchange for being able to stay for the summer. Had some great conversations at the minshuku. So upon arrival, I rented a scooter from 12 noon to 6pm from the Eneos gas station across the street from the Minshuku (and just a block or so away from the port.. it's quite close to the Uerhara port). Explored what I could of the island (it's a huge place) and visited the (free and very nice) center on the Yamaneko wildcat (there are less than 100 in existance in the world, all on this island). Note the center is NOT near any of the ports, and the buses on Iriomote are infrequent and hard to really make use of unless you have unlimited time. Rent a scooter. At night, rained for a bit, then passed. Next morning took the Urauchigawa river trip (only Y1,500 for boat-transportation only. It's about Y8500 if you want a guide, but it'd all be in Japanese, and most people just opt for the transportation). This is a river trip down the Urauchigawa river (gawa=river) where there are lots of mangroves. From there you walk/hike (not difficult and thankfully mostly shady) to two waterfalls. If you take the 9:30 boat, you get to the dropoff point at 10:00am, and normally take the 12:00 boat back (if you want or need more time, tell them beforehand). Waterfalls are the spectacular ones, but still nice and worth doing. Hatoma had good snorkling. Had a GREAT time at the minshuku that night. Locals came by as well as guests (the minshukus are small, so guests might be 6-8 instead of 30) and we all talked. Next day was at the tiny little local store/kiosk and met the sister of the owner -- who now lives in Hawaii (and spoke perfect Hawaiian English). She was born on tiny Hatoma, but left years ago to first go to Okinawa (main island) then to Hawaii where she now lives. She hasn't been back in 17 years, but was coming back for bon festival. By the way, at all of these smaller islands, there are elementary and junior high schools (usually sharing same campus) but no high school. For each island, all the kids go to Ishigaki to go to high school (and stay there in dorms). While walking around Ishigaki later on, I made it a point to walk up to the high school to check it out. Sure enough, 3-story dorms next to the large high school -- which has to accomdate all the high-school-aged kids from all the Yaeyama islands.

Then for the afternoon of the 25th, went back to Ishigaki (rain. Had great weather everywhere except Ishigaki. Hm). However had good luck. The 25th (and 26 and 27) were Angama festival days. I inquired somewhere where they were going on (as it's an indoor thing). People dress up in old "granny" and "grandpa" masks, dance, make music, etc. Traditional Okinawan festival. Managed to track down where two of the perfornaces were (in various hotels. They were listed in the local paper a few days beforehand, and someone had clipped it out thankfully). Stayed at they Hyper Hotel. A great place, they had "real" no-smoking rooms (not just rooms where they use a spray can can call it no-smoking), it's Y5,140 a single, and close to the port (though "close" as the bird flies, you have to walk around, so it's about a 10min walk from the port. Still not bad). Liked the place. Hyper Hotel Ishigaki

On the 26th, I caught the ferry to Hateruma. This is the day (at least this year) of the once-yearly "Mushama" festival. Here, the 3 sections of the island form groups, and each group parades in various little sub-groups, doing skits showing fishing, women tending to harvest, men having dueling matches (for self-defence, etc). Then when the parade is done, the dancing and shows continue on a stage set up in the island center, and then an afternoon parade happens as well later on. A real highlight. Try to be here on the island on this day each year if you can. Between it all, I rented bikes from the owner of the minshuku I stayed at. The place is called "Minoru-sou" and note that it's big and they have two buildings. This is good to know because even trying to get a room two months beforehand, all the other places were booked for the festival. However Minoru-sou had room (two months before) so I was able to get a room for the night. Minoru-sou.
Because it's big, it's not as personal, so this was the one place I didn't really have any good converstaions or meet interesting people. However at least I got a room, and it was fine. Because of the festival, EVERYTHING was closed.. but at least the restaurant next to Minoru-sou was open (most everything else was closed). I also rented bikes and biked around. Lots of satou-kibi (sugar cane) everywhere. The island is also famous as the southern-most spot in all Japan (there's a plaque at the cliff where you can bike to signifying this). Nearby is a (supposedly) very nice observatory. However it was closed due to the festival day (but mid-day when I was biking past, 3 goat were hanging out, tied to the front door). Lots of "pancake cliffs" also by the southern-most spot. Nice island. Also went in the water here. Nice.

On the 27th, I went back to Ishigaki and then immediately onto Taketomi. Taketomi was the island I liked the least. It's not that it's "bad" but it's close to Ishigaki, and gets all the tourist traffic, and... just didn't care for it as much. If it was more isolated, it would've been better, but it was kind of like walking around Disneyland in that everyone on the street was also a tourist. It's known for its traditional homes (which you can also see in much more natural and quiet settings like Hatoma island). You can rent bicycles to cycle around but be aware there's lots of "sand" that piles up in the streets (the locals sweep it each morning, but it always comes back) making certain sections harder to cycle in. Most people go here and skip the other islands. If you have the time, go to the others, and don't feel bad if you skip this. Dont' get the wrong impression.. it's not a bad place, but the other islands were much more relaxed, less touristed, and just as nice (if not more so). Stayed at Nitta-sou: Nitta-sou which is run by the same company that runs the oxcarts. Again, it's about Y5500 if you want meals. Here I opted for sudomari (lodging only) for Y3150 I think.

Next morning I went to Kohama. This was the one place I hadn't made a reservation to stay. The following day I'd have to leave early back to Tokyo, but I could still stay on Kohama and catch the early ferry back, or I could just go back to Ishigaki. Well, in the end I decided to just go back to Ishigaki. It's not that Kohama is bad, but by this point I had pretty much seen the stuff on Kohama on other islands. The one bad thing about Kohama is that it's the setting for a very popular Japanese NHK drama (Chura-san) and Japanese flock here to see some of the exterior filming locations (one house has a plaque outside saying "this is where ep. 13 was shot"). There are also a couple major resorts here (yuck). These minuses aside though, it's not a bad place. I rented a scooter right by the port (Y650/hr). Here they DID ask for an int'l license, so bring one with you (you get them in your home country, they're about US$10 at the AAA in the US). I thought I'd need to rent it for about 6-7 hours, but after 3 and a half hours, I was done. With a scooter you can cover a lot of ground. If I had gone in snorkling at one of the beaches, I'd have stayed longer, but I decided not to (though the beaches did look good). Lots of sugar cane (the other thing the island is famous for). After driving the scooter around for a while, I parked it in the "town" and walked around.. there I looked at a processional of walking obon dancers who invited me to join them dancing as they'd go to people's home and dance (for bon festival). In Okinawa, o-bon festival comes a week or so later than the rest of Japan, so I got my fill first in "mainland" Japan, then the following week in Okinawa. So went back to Ishigaki in the afternoon, and today it was actually sunny in Ishigaki (all the time it was hot, except for Ishigaki which had rained in the past, so now I was walking around Ishigaki in the heat). Walked all around, wandered way up away from the port area into the hills, looked around. Not a bad place, but I personally like the smaller islands better. Though to be fair, I never left the general Ishigaki city area (Ishigaki is a huge island, and flying over it later you can see that outside of the city area, it's mostly fields).

Last day I flew to Naha (main island of Okinawa) early, and had the day to walk around before flying back to Tokyo that night. Went to Shuri (easy access from airport on the monorail) and went to the Peace Park (Heiwa Koen). Worth going to even though buses are infrequent (every 45-60 mins, and you have to change in Itoman bus terminal at the half-way point). A waste of time though, was the underground Navy HQ, where a Japanese navy commander committed suicide with 4000 of his troops when the war was going bad. Skip this one IMHO, but don't miss the Peace Park, which is VERY straightfoward in its presentation of the bad things that happened to Okinawans during WWII -- from everyone (from the Americans who would drop bombs indiscriminately, to the Japanese who forced the local Okinawans to enlist and die). Names of everyone who died in the battles there are on giant stones (like the Vietnam memorial in the US) -- not just Japanese soldiers, but Okinawan civilians and US soldiers as well. Then walked around Kokusai Dori (lots of souvenir shops). Not my cup of tea, but it's interesting for a half-hour or so.

Well I probably won't check in here regularly, but will try from time to time. If you have any questions, I'll try to answer them. I really enjoyed the Yaeyamas. I really recommend Hatoma and Iriomote (and Hateruma too, and Kuroshima). Taketomi and Ishigaki are nice, but I liked the others a little better. Don't know what weather is like other times of the year, but I was lucky that I missed typhoons. August (typhoon season) was hot and humid (though the rest of Japan was also having a record-setting heat wave all summer -- and Okinawa was actually slightly cooler than the rest of Japan!)

Just a PS.
If you're NOT Japanese, you can take advantage of very cheap inside-Japan flights. Both JAL and ANA have their own separate programs. I forget what the ANA one is called, but JAL is "Yokoso Japan" fare. For Y10,000 (about $83) you can take any flight segment within Japan. Even long-haul ones like Tokyo-Ishigaki. So that's how I went. Tokyo-Ishigaki direct was Y10,000 ($83) as was Ishigaki to Naha, and then Naha back to Tokyo (I opted for the extra return flight because I wanted to stop in Naha to take a look around). To get these tickets they MUST be bought outside Japan in conjunction with an international ticket. Do the research on it (please don't ask me). For most of the year, you can take ANY carrier to Japan (to get this deal) but certain months (ie, July, August, heavy travel periods) are blacked out unless you use specific carriers to get to Japan (ie, JAL, American, Cathay, etc) which is why I used American (to get these seats during a usual black-out period).

As in my post above, I recommend the "Hyper Hotel" near the port for Y5140. I did look at the "Sleep Inn" but it's expensive, and just as far a walk away (in the other direction). They have discount coupons at the Ishigaki port brouchre kiosk for the Sleep Inn (making it Y7400 instead of Y8400) but it's still a rip off. Hyper Hotel is Y5140, they have non-smoking rooms (if you want them) and it's close to the port.

I don't know anything about Miyako-jima. Didn't go there.

Why would you want to go to a resort in places like this? These are places to get away from resorts. If you want resorts, golfing, etc I know Kohama Island has two of them. But then it seems kind of a waste to even go there. The whole purpose of places like this is to get away from the resorts. Iriomote is for the most part uninhabited (it's a very large island with only a few cities here and there) so there are no resorts there. It's also a great place.

I wound up having to do all my research in Japanese (there are tons of Japanese language websites). The one English one is from Kampire-sou (mentioned above) which talks about Iriomote. Even though I can get by OK in Japanese I'm not fluent, and my kanji-reading isn't great, but with some determination, I was able to go through a bunch of pages. Not much I can tell you about English webpages. Except maybe just set some time aside, show up and see what happens. Once you're there everything becomes clear. The Yaeyamas are a great place.

Just a PS: made a typo. Above in the long post for Iriomote's Urauchigawa river trip, I meant to say the waterfalls are NOT of the spectacular type (but still nice nonetheless). The trip IS worth doing. And then the last part of the Iriomote paragraph (after Urauchigawa) I go back to talking about Hatoma (the day before) not Iriomote (where I say: "Hatoma had good snorkling. Had a GREAT time at the minshuku that night.." etc).
Sorry it wasn't very organized. It's late :)

One last thing: THANK YOU to the kind posters who helped me out with my questions before I left on my trip! :)

I'm new to the forum. Greetings!

I sure hope that this thread isn't dead. I've been to Japan a few times, but my next trip will be my first away from the mainland. For my birthday, I'm planning a solo trip to Okinawa, Miyako, and Ishigaki (with side trips to Taketomi, Kuroshima, Kohama and Iriomote). I have a few questions:

1. I plan on staying at Hyper Hotel Ishigaki. mrlar, did you make your reservation online, or did you phone it in? I tried online, but it wasn't working for me. Does anyone at the hotel speak English, because I'll just try to call in my reservation. Which brings me to my second question:

2. My Japanese is advanced elementary to intermediate, and I may be exaggerating. Is that enough to get around down there?

3. I don't drive and am pretty sure that my skills with the bike leave much to be desired. Are the islands navigable for me? I know that I'll be at the mercy of buses or hoofing it.

4. This question may have an obvious answer, but is there any special training needed to snorkel? I considered getting SCUBA certification, but I may not have the time, and I've never snorkelled. Is it something that requires a buddy, or can I do it solo?

5. I've never been much of a beach-goer, but would like to be, if only for this trip. Is trip a total bust if I don't make it into the water?