Travelling alone in China, how easy/difficult is it?

language barrier CAN be frustrating, but it's a pretty heavily traveled country AND there's more people learning English here than people living in the United States. A good phrase book, some good humor and patience (and the ability to point and mime) should do you fine.

as for the welcoming to strangers - that's patently nonsense. While there are quite a few Chinese people who make a living from cheating outsiders (foreigners and people from different parts of China alike) - it's more than made up by hospitality and kindness. I've been fed in people's homes, had food and beverages shared on all sorts of train trips, hiking trips, etc. etc. There's an awful lot of generosity in this country.

I think to make a travel rec, I (or anyone else) would have to know what you like - nature? history? culture? food? big cities? small towns? imperial history? minority areas? deserts? China is a HUGE country with amazing variety.

i've done nearly all my travel here alone, no problems. www.chinesepod.com will teach you some survival chinese. many of them know a good amount of english, though fewer so as you go west. guidebook will help you out with where to go. the crappiest hostels have helpful if not cheerful staff. they're VERY welcoming to foreigners and anxious to show you the best face of the country. that said, there are a lot scammers and aggressive touts and they can really ruin your day. but any sleeper train is full of men always up for a friendly beer and grandmas that will force-feed you.

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Well, this question is a very individual one and it depends much upon your personality, the way you can handle hardshiphs or new and unexpected things and your perspective about life itself. You won't get a definite answer from me like "You must go to China" nor "Don't go to China at all" since I don't know the answer concerning YOU.
What I can tell you for sure, that there have been other destinations which I liked much better. I can also say that China is not the easiest country to travel around and yes,.....that's partially because of the language barrier. It's also undoubtedly because Chinese people are NOT the most smiling, helpful, warm-hearted, hospitable, friendly people in he world (as I have found people to be in NZ or Europe for example). Scams and rip-offs are not very rare and you should always be cautious.
Saying that, I have talked with other people who said they really enjoyed China. Undoubtedly, its possible to travel alone in China and some travellers consider it as a challenge to overcome all hardships by themselves. China is a different world from what we know and I would rather say it's a world within our world.
Concerning your question where to travel to, 4 weeks is an ideal time to visit Yunnan (Lijiang, Dali, Songpan, Shangri-La, Xixuangbana) and you can add some minority villages in the Guizhou district which is very green and see the famous rice terraces (in Pin'gyan for example). These places are really untouristy.
However, if you want to stick to the North, you may visit Beijing, Xian, Pingyao, Datong & Luoyang (haven't seen the two latter).
Cheers !

I am a tiny, blonde young woman - not especially experienced at international travel. But I traveled for a week in China alone without problem. The Chinese are incredibly helpful, though mostly without any English outside of cities. Travel was very challenging because of the language barrier, but people were so helpful, even after my huge husband arrived and I was not alone. It is as safe as you could hope - I could wander the alleys of Beijing at midnight without worry! But I would plan on being lost a lot of the time in the smaller cities. Its easy to get around the metropolises.

I recommend carrying a phrasebook with the prases translated IN CHINESE CHARACTERS so that when you mispronounce what you want, you can point. I also found that a Chinese-English-Chinese dictionary was fun as people would grab, start flipping through, and come up with the English words they were looking for to try to communicate.

One hint - most Chinese taxi drivers carry cell phones, so if your destination (e.g. an obscure hostel) is hard to find, they can call.

My favorite spot was Wudanshan where I stayed 2 nights and hiked the sacred mountain then did a fun Chinese-cruise on the Yangstze (I suppose you cant do that anymore).

Have fun!

#5, the 3 Gorges (aka Yangtze River) cruises are still up and running. I'm not sure if they were ever "fun" though.
Cheers!

Here are some travel notes from July 2006 for an itinerary Bejing, Datong, Xian, Lanzhou, Xiahe, Langmusi, Songpan, Juizhaighou, Chengdu that should take you about a month. Then fly back to Beijing for your flight home. There's a variety of cities, history and countrysid there.

Prices and conditions change of course. Buyt you may be able to pick out a few ideas. The latest Lonely Planet China guide is due out in May I believe. Try to order it now.

notes...

In Beijing, in the Qianmen district close to Tiananmen Sq, I can recommend Jing Di Shi Hotel 200m up same hutong NE of Far East Hotel on left. Very clean, friendly. Ac dbl with priv bath 160Y. Old Chinese house with peaceful fountained courtyard. All modern fittings. Some good eateries nearby also.

Everyone seems to head for Far East Hotel and YH, but there are lots more bargains and quieter places further up the same road such as Jing Di Shi Hotel, Leo Hostel. If you’re on a tight budget, the cheapest hostel I found was: head north towards Tiananmen Sq from Far East YH about 200m , then 50m after the Jing Di Shi Hotel on left and before you get to Leo’s turn left along a hutong that doubles back southwards; after about 40 m the hostel is on the right - 35Y in 3 bed ac dorm (old character Chinese house; v friendly staff). Not mentioned in any guide books so I had a clean ac dorm to myself for 2 nights.

Shop around a little for Great Wall tour – several agencies/hostels/GHs do exactly same tour for 30Y cheaper. I paid 90Y from memory (july 2006) whereas others had paid 120Y. They drop you off at Jinshanling, pick up at Simatai a few hours later.

Simatai entry 40Y steepest and most spectacular section (for the not so fit there’s a cable car to a spot near 6th tower 30 sgl 50 rtn).
I hiked 10km Jinshanling to Simatai, less touristy with several parts unrestored. I enjoyed it, but note the double entry fee… 30Y for entry to Jinshanling, then after about 7km of walking there’s a ticket collector next to a sign “You are now entering the Simatai section”.. another 40Y please plus another 3Y to cross a bridge into Simatai. By then you’re so weary, you don’t feel like climbing Simatai.

Both sections impressive.

Up2u.

Forbidden City – several buildings closed for refurbishment, still worthwhile to visit. Allow yourself lots of time.

Summer Palace bus 726 or 826 from Qianmen 5Y – several buildings closed for refurbishment, still worthwhile to visit. It’s huge so allow yourself lots of time.. atm I would rec buying only the entrance ticket 30Y (through tkt 50Y). Extra attractions not really worth it IMHO apart from fascinating old opera theatre where Cixi entertained herself. You can pay separately for that if you want.

Temple of Heaven, Tiantan – has just been beautifully refurbished. Definitely pay the through ticket here 35Y.

Beijing_ Datong HC seat 31. CTS officials nab u as u exit platform. V helpful, speak good Engl. Feidian Binguan opp station 35 dorm incl breakfast. Hot water only 8pm-midnight. 140 dbl priv bath.
CTS tour to Hanging Temple and Yungdong Caves v gd (100 excl entry fees and meal. 225 inclusive – u actually save 10Y buying the all incl deal if u have to pay full adult prices. If u have student card better to pay separately … 50% discount.)

Datong_Wutaishan. Book bus through CTS 62Y… couldn’t get it any cheaper independently, and they will reserve seats for u. Will also reserve hotel in Wutaishan for u 80 dbl priv bath, 30 dorm priv bath.
Wutaishan is a mercenary place – avoid if you’re on a tight schedule or budget. 90Y to enter the area a rip off. (scenery pretty but nothing special – looks a bit like Yorkshire Dales in UK – far more spectacular around Songpan and Langmusi). The first thing they should do with that entry fee is clean the once pristine streams of rotting garbage and plastic bags. You then have to pay again to enter the admittedly v interesting temples. Hordes of Chinese tourists. Food overpriced . Avoid netcafe. Couldn’t connect to Yahoo or Google even with staff trying for 20 mins using proxy servers. 5Y/hr and no refund even though I couldn’t connect to anything “Keep trying” the owner said.

Bus Waitushan Taiyuan leaves when full. Several 6:30am-2:30pm 60Y.
I was told at Taiyuan train station (correctly or not?) no trains to Pingyao till 7:30pm, so I headed for a taxi to take me the 4kms to bus station S of town centre. Beware: I was ambushed by a female rail official who directed me to a bus conveniently parked right outside the front of the station, destination Pingyao she claimed. I should have smelled a rat when the nice round figure of 50Y was mentioned (more than double the figure in LP) … but it was hot and I was tired, but not as hot and sweaty as I was when the bus took an hour to fill up and then the driver eventually dropped off me and my backpack not in Pingyao, but on the expressway slip road with a 3km walk into Pingyao itself.
Time your journey better than I did to catch the train from Taiyuan to Pingyao 13Y.or take a taxi to the correct bus station.

Pingyao – Tianyuankui Minfeng Binguan 80Y for clean ac attic sgl room priv bath..Friendly helpful staff.- can get sleeper tickets to Xian (they fax tkt from Taiyuan; collect actual ticket from rail attendant on board – no probs). They will also reserve place at Bell Tower YH Xian and have a free taxi to meet your train. Free net use if you eat there.
Heard good reports about Harmony GH in Pingyao also.
Obliged to buy 120Y tkt to visit “all” Pingyao sites of interest, no separate tickets.. pity for people who only want to visit one or two sites.

Pingyao Xian HC sleeper 99 + 40 comm (incl free taxi to station)

Bell Tower YH Xian - Friendly helpful staff, clean ac dorm 45 (40 if member). Priv rooms available too. Excellent central location - great views from lounge and dining room. Free taxi from station if book ahead. Free net.
V easy to visit Terracotta Warriors yourself. Bus #606,608,611 from Bell Tower YH 1Y to station, then bus #306 every 10 mins from station to warriors 7Y (don’t get off until terminus). Bus passes Huaqing Pool also, site of famous “Xian incident” involving Chiang Kai Shek, if you’re interested.
Warriors entrance 90Y. I found them well worth seeing. Other travellers disappointed – no idea why??

Xian_Lanzhou HC sleeper103. Arrived at awkward time 3:30am, so decided to kick on with first bus to Xiahe. Bus #1 from station 5:45am to Xixiguan? junction. Then #111 6:30am to new South bus station.. Insurance scam seems to have ended, was never asked to pay extra here or in Sichuan. Bus_Xiahe 44.5Y 7:30am (6.5 hrs).
There’s a better train that leaves Xian at 10:30 pm arr Lanzhou at a more civilised time of 7:30am, but u will miss first direct bus to Xiahe. Can still get there via Linxia or maybe later direct bus or stay overnight of course?
Bus stopped for lunch at Qing Xiang Zhai restaurant in Linxia (ask prices first! – I got ripped off 10Y for noodle soup; woman on bus later told me she paid 3Y for same. It’s a pity you have to be overcautious; most Chinese are very honest, but some, as in all countries in the world, will take advantage of naïve travellers. It’s not just the money, it’s the principle that someone is taking you for an idiot. Old Chinese proverb according to writer Paul Theroux: “You can always fool a foreigner”)

Xiahe – Overseas Tibetan Hotel 20 Y dorm. Friendly helpful staff. Net 5/hr. In attached Everest restaurant I rec Nepali Chicken Curry set meal 20Y.
Labrang monastery 40Y entry. Get there for 10:15 am tour with Engl speaking lama. He opens up some buildings u wouldn’t see at other times. Worthwhile – very Indiana Jonesish atmosphere.
Climb small hill across river for great views.

Xiahe_Langmusi direct bus 7:40am 40Y.Excellent road after Hezuo. Great scenery. By 2008 when all road construction and bridges tunnels finished, the route Lanzhou_Xiahe_Langmusi_Songpan_Chengdu will be an easy and pleasanter alternative to overnight Xian_Chengdu train. Can foresee huge influx of tourists using it.

Langmusi Hotel. Clean dorms 15,20,25Y choice hot water 6-10pm. Hotel recently refurbished.. Friendly staff.
Leisha’s café for huge portions, reasonable prices, cheerful service – no wonder it’s so popular. Someone please take her some custard powder and introduce her to it – would make a superb complement to her apple pies. Would have loved some ice cream too.

Netcafe up stairs directly opp entrance to Langmusi hotel. 3/hr, but choose a quiet period - full of young monks playing net games most of the time.

Beautiful walks and horse treks in the area. Friendly locals. LP should make more of this place in its next edition. 2 DIY easy walks;
1) Walk 1 km out of town on road past Langmusi Hotel. As the road turns westwards, head towards the right of the hill directly in front of u with prayer flags on top (your destination). Walk up the wooded gully besides stream. When u reach the pass head towards prayer flagged summit. Superb views. To descend continue along ridge down to the road back into town.
2) Destination: prayer flags above the red cliffs overlooking town. Walk 20 metres past entrance to Langmusi Hotel rd towards main Xiahe-Zoige rd. take muddy rd to your right. After 500m veer left towards gap in cliffs. Follow power poles until path to pass becomes clear. Turn left at top of pass to visit minor summit overlooking town. You can also see your onward route to prayer flags from here. After the prayer flagged summit try to detect a path along the contours as close as poss to the tops of the cliffs. When u reach the final cliff head down the ridge to your left to the visible path. Walk back into town along the broad sheep/yak drovers track.

Bus Langmusi_Zoige 7am 20Y 2.5 hrs. Missed once a day 9am direct Songpan bus from Zoige. Teamed up with 5 other travellers to hire minibus to Songpan 480Y.

Songpan – Traffic Hotel attached to bus station. Sgl 15Y. Shared bathrm but exc shower. Have a large choice of diff sized rooms – my 5 companions got a huge comfortable 5 bed dorm with priv bath for 15 each.

Heard mixed reports about horse treks (all depends on how lucky you are with your guides), so I just did a few walks myself.
Destination: temple sitting high above town. Ask Emma (Emma’s Kitchen – rec) to point out track which starts on left bank of stream 30m s of Emma’s Kitchen. As block of houses ends after 100m, walk a further 60/70m then turn sharp left up the steep path all the way to the temple. Descend via path just to left of temple as u look towards town. You emerge in Muslim Quarter near covered bridge.
From temple you can work out another interesting route along mountain ridges across the valley.

Songpan_Jiuzhaighou 7am, 11 am, (2pm?) 28Y 3 hrs
Research name of a hotel and tell bus driver to drop u nearby. Otherwise he’ll drop u off either at park entrance or at bus station, which makes for a long walk back. Long distance bus station is 1km beyond the park entrance and 1.5km beyond main town.

500m before park entrance try Jiuzhaighou Garden Hotel 70Y sgl priv bath (but was full when I went)
You Yuan Binguan back of shop directly opp Jiuzhaighou Garden Hotel 50Y sgl priv bath but no hot water. Owner friendly, helpful but not a word of Engl. Will bring bucket hot water for you and was constantly filling tea thermos. I never managed to educate him on foreigners’ preference for ice cold beer though “peejo bingde”. Someone else on this forum recommended Jiuzhaighou IYH (http://www.gogojz.com/eng_index.asp). Looks to be reasonably priced but map doesn’t indicate how far from park entrance.

Entrance fee 220Y (170Y for pensioners and students) plus 90Y for unlimited bus usage, but no-one checks, and the buses won’t stop for u anyway unless you’re waiting at the crowded main tourist spots.

Jiuzhaighou National Park was a “beautiful disappointment”. It is incredibly beautiful, but I was disappointed that I was 20 yrs too late and had to share it with 1000s of other tourists per day.
However, here’s the secret to avoid the hordes of tour groups!
Day 1. Be at the park entrance at 6:40 am. Be first in line to buy your ticket and endorse it with free computer ID photo for 2 days usage. Be the first through the turnstiles at 7am and the first off the bus at the most popular tourist spot Panda Lake or Panda Falls. Be the first to start walking northwards to Nuorilang Falls. You’ll start hitting a few groups of tourists, but it’s better than later in the day when you’ll be involved in a rugby scrum just to get a photo of the falls. At Nuorilang take a bus to Long Lake and Multicoloured Lake. Then bus back to Nuorilang and change to bus for Primeval Forest at the end of the park. Walk downhill from there to Panda Lake where you started in the morning, and call it a day. The crowds will be out in force by then.
Day 2 Be the first through the turnstiles again at 7am. Get off at Nuorilang Falls and walk back towards the park entrance – it was as though I had the entire park to myself. Only met 4 people coming the other way, but there must have been 10,000 about 20 minutes behind me. Bus back up to Long Lake and walk back towards Nuorilang along quiet walkways that not many frequent. That’s quite a long day… keep your eye on park closing time and last buses 5:30pm

Shuzheng Village is just one great Tibetan theme park selling tacky souvenirs. Stick to the nature trails.

IMHO I can’t see the point of trying to find accom in Shuzheng Village overnight. It’s illegal (although I doubt they’d deport u for it). You’ve got to hide from rangers between 5:30 pm (park closes) and 7am, when you could be enjoying a nice beer, meal and stroll in Jiuzhaighou town. You’ve got to carry your pack around with u for all or part of the day as I saw a couple of travellers doing. The uncertainty and hassle of finding accom. You will still not be first at some of the more popular spots as outlined above because to cover the whole park you have to rely on the busses to cover those large distances anyway to get you there before the hordes arrive while you’re wasting time finding a lodge.

Whereas if you’re canny as outlined above you can virtually have the park to yourself legally for 2 days anyway.

On the other hand, I CAN see the point if you’re a truly adventurous squatter and stay in the park for a week… no-one checks tickets in the park or when u exit (unless of course u make yourself conspicuous to a ranger in some way). If you have a discreet bivvy and are self sufficient, it would be magic to wander off through the forest into some hidden gully and experience the stillness of the park in the evening. The walkway near Mirror Lake seemed unfrequented (u could slip off into the forest there. Also between Nuorilang and Long Lake -18km of walkway that not many people use)

I was there in early July. The park is supposed to be at its best in the less popular spring and autumn. Of course avoid Oct 1-10, May 1-10. Judge for yourself: from following ave temps C and rainfall in mm

jan -1 15
feb 3 24
mar 4 35
apr 9 42
may 11 87
jun 14 96
jul 16 104
aug 17 82
sep 12 76
oct 8 53
nov 2 25
dec 2 19

Bus Jiuzhaighou_Chengdu 6:40 am (10.5hrs) 110Y. Arrives Xinnamen bus station. Taxis cheap 5Y flagfall then 1.4Y/km

Dragon Town YH in old Chinese mansion full of character. Clean. Friendly, helpful staff. Free net. 40Y ac dorm (3 beds) 20 dorm (8 beds). Reserve – it’s popular. Can book all tickets for u for 30Y commission.

Tour to Panda breeding centre 70Y incl entry. Worthwhile, involves several bus changes to try to do it yourself. But tours to Songpan, Jiuzhaighou etc I rec doing yourself if time – cheaper and more flexible.

Easy enough to travel is you stay in the bigger cities, and more famous tourist spots, difficult to find out anything is you are off the beaten track. China is not a well travelled country outside of the more famous places, so it depends what you want. For example, getting out to a village without Chinese language is extremely difficult, but the more rewarding for that. The choices of what you want from the trip are the key to whether or not it will be easy.

Bring lots of patience and a sense of humour and you'll go far. I recommend the Rough Guide to Mandarin. You can point to the phrases if you can't make yourself understood. So much to see...do some research and good luck!

The problem with traveling alone is that you cant split taxis, hotels or meals with anyone else. You are going to have to bepatient cause you are a foreigner and all prices will probably be inflated when you ask how much, so you will have to negotiate. Chinese people are in general very friendly, but the dialects are very different province to province and unless you are fluent you are going to have to repeat things often.