I still see Fenghuang in Hunan on many travellers routes. I know in the domestic tourism industry it is touted as "the most beautiful ancient town in China" The current LP has it in the top 30 highlights of China waxing lyrical about the evocative setting.
Well it was pretty good when I first visited in 89 but on two more recent visits , 2014/15 I found it the most overdeveloped commercialised place in China. The only reason I can think of to visit is if you have some perverse interest in the impact of uncontrolled mass tourism. Unlike say Pingyao where the commercialisation is limited to a few streets pretty much everywhere is ruined.. Many of the attractions the older mansions are fakes , quite a few years ago the local government went on a spending spree buying up old carvings etc from others places in Hunan.
The good news is there are a number of alternatives in this part of Western Hunan if you want to see ancients towns. I would recommend :
1 Hongjiang洪江古商 located about 55km south of Huaihua buses twice an hour till1700 from the South Bus Station. No need to buy the 130¥ tickets plenty of other ways into the ancient part . Also known as Hongjiang District 洪江区
2.Qianyang 黔阳 or Qiancheng黔城about 40km south of Huaihua same transport links. Wonderful walled old town by the river. No ticket Confusing this place is officially known as Hongjiang City洪江市 don't ask why suffice to say only in China...
3.Chadong 茶洞 north of Fenghuang access from the town of Huayuan 花垣 buses every 30 mins all day from opposite the main square not the bus station . 40 min journey. Wonderful riverside setting famous in Chinese literary history as Bordertown. You are not that far from getting to Zhangjiajie.
4.Laosicheng 老司城 under an hour from Yongshun 永顺 which is west of Zhangjiajie . Ancient centre of the Tujia minority, great hiking , ruins and architecture . Buses hourly but from the old bus station 老汽车站。
Plenty more places in the northeast of Guizhou good transport links from Tongren同仁eg Loushang ancient village 楼上古寨
