Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Just Finished 3 Weeks in Sri Lanka

Country forums / Indian Subcontinent / Sri Lanka

OK:

so I only have a few minutes in the airport lounge, but for anyone interested, my partner and I just finished 3 weeks in south and central Sri Lanka.

Had a ball. Felt safe (ish) the whole time. Biggest problem was the touts...the are everywhere and very cunning. On trains they told us they worked for post office as managers, as teachers, as buddist scholars...we got the lot. Especially on train from Colombo to Galle.

Went to Yalla NP and saw a leopard (just)!!! But the park was amazing and recommend it - especially the guide we used who works for a company called (I think) 'Independent' or something like that. His 4WD very comfortable and very good english and had no problems. Found him near the bus station...anyway worth shopping around because the prices and car quality all very different from our observation!

Also went to Sigiriya which was really amazing. Got there very early in the morning...we were only there for a few hours, but could have spent all day.

Had a few days in Mirissa at the Rose Blossam Guest house. The people who run it were probably the nicest Sri Lankan couple we met anywhere! My advice in Mirissa is to stay on the other side of the road from the beach...up on the hill. Too much traffic noise on the beach, but downside is walking across the road to go for a swim...more than compensated for by being in the jungle and with monkeys every morning...

hmmm...other than that my only advice is to use the public trains and busses rather than cars...they are so easy and cheap.

Also, stay at the Galle Face hotel in Colombo for at least two nights...you will need it to get through the breakfast buffet...amazing. If you are there, have the High Tea and not dinner...heaps cheaper, and the food is better in my humble opinion.

Also...and lastly...Queens HOtel in Kandy is located in the best possible spot in town. Well worth the extra money...

Anyway...have fun and watch those damn touts.

Steve and Sylvia

Steve and Sylvia, I couldn't agree more with Galle Face Hotel. It was well worth every rupee.. we started at the Galle Face and may also end with it.

1

Great report, glad your trip went so well. I agree that Sigiriya is extraordinary and best seen early or late when the crowds have gone. One of the most spectacular places I have ever been. I did not go there on my most recent trip in January but just seeing it from the road to Polonnaruwa made me feel all excited.

Also the Galle Face. Most trips I try to spend one night there if I can negotiate a decent price - always worth haggling. On my last visit a crow flew down and stole my bacon at breakfast. I went to get some more and the lady in charge of bacon told me the man who scares the crows away had not turned up. I love the idea that the hotel employs a crow scarer. I saw him later. He walks round with a catapult and aims it at the crows who then fly off. He does not actually fire it - they recognise it and know it means danger. But they are back in no time. A few years ago I bought a lovely ice cream on Galle Face Green and a crow stole it out of my hand as it flew past me. The hotel is lovely - faded elegance - but I generally go for guest houses costing maybe 1000 rupees so it is always my one night of extravagance.

Referring to touts, Galle is the tout capital of the world for some reason. I recall asking a 3 wheeler driver to take me to Mr Kodikara's guest house. Mr Kodikara is dead, he told me, so he could take me elsewhere and get commission. I said I must have been talking to his ghost that morning on the phone and he then said, "Oh, I meant a different Kodikara."

2