Sri Lanka between kite surf & beach: advice needed.

I'm afraid to say that you are going to SL at the absolute height of the tourist season. Trying to find a quiet beach will be difficult, even getting decent accommodation may be a challenge.

Using a scooter to explore the Highlands is a good idea, but can you ride a scooter, do you have a licence and have you ever ridden Asia? If so then go for it

There are not that many paved roads in the Highlands apart from the main ones and these can get very busy with traffic. I know, I have cycled all over SL. You will have to look carefully to find any non touristy ones. The Knuckles Ranges are probably your best bet and could keep you interested for a few days. Exploring the tea plantations would also be interesting, but I don't think many of the small roads are paved and there willbe other tourists doing the same. It's iconic SL.

I've been in many non tourist areas while cycling. Unfortunately they are only interesting if you want to see daily life in SL, but not exactly exciting. How many hours do you want to walk through rice fields or coconut groves or tea plantations for? Or sit in a village with only 2 shops and a tea stall.

Unfortunately the paradox is that tourists go to the best places, because they are the best places. There are few undiscovered gems in SL anymore.

Personally I think Sigiriya is at least worth seeing, even if you don't climb it. Along with Galle old town it is the only really world class site in SL.

Dear Simonhill,
Thank you very much for your reply. I fully understand the all the "extras" coming with the winter holiday period vacations :(

As for the scooter I have some experience riding in Thailand & e-bike in Myanmar, so probably I am kind of prepared (driving a motorbike in Russia I also assume as part of preparation).

Daily life witnessing is actually what I am after. Recent years I clearly understood that sudden small street encounters give me much more joy than ticking boxes visiting another guide book highlight.

The Knuckles Ranges were also on my mind. Do you have any suggestions on base town to stay there for radial day long trips?

And thank you for advice about Sigiriya and Galle, I will include them.

Regards,
Anton

Anton,

Have you thought about hiring a scooter for your whole trip?

You can pick it up in Negombo, then ride to Kalpitiya. The coast road just north of Negombo is interesting, don't miss it by going straight up the highway. The rest of the way to Kalpitiya is OK on good roads.

You would then have the scooter in Kalpitiya which could be useful as the kite school places are a long way from anywhere and fairly expensive. With a scooter you can go into town for cheap meals and water, etc.

Then ride out for your second week. Lots of possibilities. Try searching this forum for Knuckles. Someone wrote a post a few months ago about a blog he has written about cycling in the Knuckles.

The Knuckles area isn't very big, so not sure how long you'd spend there. I haven't been, I was going last time, but hurt my knee.

You could continue through Highlands and drop down to south coast.

Alternatively head to Trincomalee, one of my favourites. Then down East coast to Arugam Bay. From there the coast road ends and you have to head inland before going down to South coast. The east coast isn't much travelled apart from the resorts and is interesting.

Having a scooter to find good beaches away from the resort ones would also be useful. It's the only way you might find quiet beaches.

I always travel by bike and wouldn't be without my wheels, but I prefer to have the peace of no engine.

Simon,
Thank you very much for valuable information.
I do consider myself as quite an adventure type of person, but traveling hundreds of kilometers by motorbike with backpack is probably to challenging for me. Also using buses and trains will be part of experience.

Thank you for the tip about Knuckles, I have found report you were referring to and it looks like an option for me. I have booked hotel in the area already and now trying to get in touch with the owner to check if he can help with motorbike.
By the way, did you cycle in Ella area?

Looks like I will end up hiring it twice at highlands and at south coast.

As for Trincomalee and East Coast, do you think it is good idea to go there during late December/ early January? My understand it is not best season for that part of the Sri Lanka…
Regards,
Anton

East coast in Dec/Jan, probably not, but wait and see. Swimming won't be good, but you could have dry enough weather for a short visit.

Currently SL and S India having very bad weather, but this could clear up in a few days, or carry on for weeks.

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