Hi all,
I just traveled overland from Kashgar to Skardu.
Took a bus from Kashgar (270 yuan). Bus left the international station at 12:00pm (Xinjiang time) and arrived at Tashkurgan at 8:00pm.
You WILL NEED a Pakistani visa otherwise the China Customs WILL turn you back (happened to a Japanese tourist on the same bus). It's the same US $8 (or 55 Chinese Yuan / 720 Pakistani Rupees) for the Khunjerab National Park fees.
You can change money at Sost and the best rate was USD $1 to Rs 92.
Took a minibus to Passu the same day right after I arrived in Sost (Rs 200, around 45 minutes). They dropped the foreginers off 2km before Passu, saying local authority didn't allow foreigners to travel on public transport after 5:00pm...very strange.
After that I got to Gilgit from Passu in 1 day:
- Took a jeep from Passu to the lake for Rs100 (around 30 minutes)
- The boat trip across the lake was Rs 100 but I heard other foreigners have paid as much as Rs500! (around 1 hour 15 - 30minutes).
- There're trucks to Aliabad waiting for you at the other side of the lake (around 1 hour, Rs 130)
- Minibus from Aliabad to Gilgit is Rs 230 (2.5 hours).
Better to have some warm clothes with you when it's raining. On the day I took the boat, it's windy and rainy and everybody was freezing..
The Pakistani side of the KKH is in a pretty bad state. A large part of it is either under construction or affected by landslide. Expect long hours on the road!!
Hope you find this useful!

