I am returning to Nepal this October after 30 years. In 1987-88 I was there for two months, trekking without a guide Lukla - Everest Basecamp - Thame and east to Hile for one month in December-January. At that time we could count on one hand the number of foreigners that we met on the last part walking southeast, an area I really loved for its variety.
So much will probably have changed, especially the number of visitors, and I am hitting high season.
Does anyone here have good recommendations for me for a 10-17 day trek in an area that has basic teahouses, not being too overdeveloped? I have been thinking about the tour up to Makalu Basecamp or around Manaslu. I will stay around Kathmandu Valley for the first three weeks and then take a bus or a flight out to a starting point.
There are some suggestions in the past few weeks in the post archives for similar questions.
The Manaslu circuit has become somewhat touristy. It is also a restricted area so you need a guide and in theory 2 trekkers minimum. Also restricted, the Kanchenjunga circuit is quiet. The Makalu BC is not restricted and is quiet.
There are other treks that requires camping.
I have trekked the Arun Valley several times. In once, and out I think 5 times. Mostly in November. There was a period when the number of trekkers in that area did seem to increase, but then it has dropped again. This area is a bit too rough for most of the tourists. It is lovely to leave the 'main trail' at Puyan and head Eastwards. I am sure you can still enjoy it in relative solitude.
The first two times I trekked out this way I too walked all the way to Hille. But since then I have taken flights from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu. It has been quite possible to get on a flight either that same day or the next. (And then it is quite a shock to be back in busy Kathmandu within the hour.)
Hej,
If you have some more time (3 weeks) you could do Manaslu and Tsum Valley at a leisurely pace. But for crossing the Larkey pass I'd recommend beginning of October.
From 23 October I'll do the Everest Three Passes trek. It's only busy up to and around EBC I think.
For a shorter trek Langtang/Gosainkunda/Halembu is also interesting, even though not the same as before the earthquake. Therefore it will be quieter.
Thanks, for your replies which have helped me a lot to clear up my mind about what I really want. And I have been reading through most of the last month's posts here. Very inspiring.
As you write, Albin, the walk over to Arun valley and the walk along the Arun river is absolutely stunning and with so much variation. I will definitely do it again sometime. But what I really loved about that month in the mountains, was the experience of seeing a world of ice and rocks slowly changing into warmer areas with at huge variety of landscapes, vegetation and people. I guess that the Kanchenjunga walk would offer somewhat the same kind of variation, but I do not have the time on this trip. Makalu would be an option, but I also notice, that the routes I have seen is almost the same in and out, so maybe that will also be for another trip.
All this makes me consider returning to the Khumbu again: I would then find some of the lesser travelled paths up the heights and walk out to Jiri, a section that shouldn't be too much visited these days, after what I read.
I have a slight idea, which I have sketched here. But I also have a few questions to you, who have been around the area over the last couple of years.
Here is a sketch: Fly early early into Lukla. Hurry up to Namche and stay for 3 nights with walks in the area. Stay 4 nights in a gompa close to Thame, where I spent a few nights last time. After that I would try to hire a guide for about a week and do sidetrips to Sunder Peak and maybe the lakes further up the valley to the west before heading towards Gokyo and returning over Phortse to Lukla. From there I guess, I could walk to Jiri/ Shivalaya in 4-5 days.
I know all depends on the weather and how fast I will acclimatize, but will I have a chance at this time of the year - I start on 26 October - to avoid the crowded paths on this trip, except for the Lukla- Namche strech ?
I have been walking in the Khumbu area 30 years ago, without a guide and alone part of the time. Will that still be safe up until Thame these days? Does the same count for Namche-Jiri, or should I try to find fellow walkers on that strip?
Do someone have good advice for this trip?
Since the later in season you arrive in Khumbu the less people, walking in from Jiri feels like the obvious smart choice. On the Renjo La loop there will be people around, but certainly not “crowded” in any context. You can walk the east side down from Gokyo to Phortse. Do Gokyo Ri after lunch, not in the morning – regardless of cloud cover.
My preference in busy-season (and any other time including winter) is to sleep long in the morning. I don’t go for breakfast before the sun has hit the ground, the dining room is quiet and any groups have left. That way I get a calm, relaxed morning alone and I usually set of around 10:00.
Depending on the village you stay the night, this will offset you from the groups and you’ll just pass them somewhere along the path mid-day.
In my view, afternoons provide superior atmosphere for walking; the trail is quiet, the light is soft, the donkey trains and porters are done, the groups long so, there’s ambiance and more wildlife. I don't usually do lunch, just a coffee and like to arrive around sunset, close to time for dinner. In winter that also means arriving when the oven/fire is going and you can judge the lodge crowd/location.
If you feel confident walking alone, it's safe.
Mustang...too bad you're not here earlier, I need a partner for permit there. But perhaps when I get out to Pokhara or Jomson end of Oct. See my post from Ecokiko.
Here is a sketch: Fly early early into Lukla. Hurry up to Namche and stay for 3 nights with walks in the area. Stay 4 nights in a gompa close to Thame, where I spent a few nights last time. After that I would try to hire a guide for about a week and do sidetrips to Sunder Peak and maybe the lakes further up the valley to the west before heading towards Gokyo and returning over Phortse to Lukla. From there I guess, I could walk to Jiri/ Shivalaya in 4-5 days.
That is pretty much what I will do next time . Except a hike in from Jiri and maybe out via Tumlingtar though that makes it more expensive with the flight .
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