need your advice - 3 weeks in Everest region

Hi

Ijust returned to KTM after this trek. Finding the flight was so easy for me in Kathmandu , I purchased the ticket the day before going there... anyway it was the beginning of april so maybe oct-nov will be busier and you should try to be here in kathmandu for some extra days before the trek, or maybe buy it through the internet.

23 days are more than enough for your plans... I did from Lukla to EBC in 6 or 7 days and then went to Gokyo crossing ChoLaPass, so in 11-12 days from Lukla you can see it all. From Namche to Jiri can be 6 days of hard walking up and downhill, so I would advise to take the plane from Lukla, especially in your way back. I think its better to cross cho la pass heading west, I mean going to Gokyo, beacuse the Gokyo side is much steeper and can be dangerous to climb up. Its perfectly doable if the weather is ok and you do it early in the morning, but if youre an average trekker as I am, its advisable to do it with someone else and dont cross the glacier alone...

Must sees: all the trail is a must see, from the bridges and the forests of the first days... but not to miss are of course the morning views from Kala Pattar (if you dont suffer from AMS its not hard at all), the Ngozuma glacier and peak near gokyo, and the village of tengboche was something good too. There you have your first famous peaks view, after the acclimatisation day in namche, and the monastery is worth a look in the afternoon, when the monks are praying. The bakery is good too.

The base camp is nothing special unless youre visiting someone there, but if youre in gorak shep you wont want to miss it. Theres a very good bakery in the entrance of the BC.

My personal advice would be: be sure to take all your items such as chocolates, dried nuts, cigarrettes and these kind of luxuries in kathmandu, or the lower possible. Prices really rise dramatically as you climb up!!!

I did Lukla-Kala Pattar-Gokyo-Lukla in 17 days (plus a morning flight out on day 18). That included 2 rest days in Namche and 1 in Dingboche, highly recommended to avoid altitude sickness. Poster #1 obviously did it in less time but was taking a risk -- or maybe the cigarettes helped him...

I could have saved a day by taking the Cho La pass instead of walking around the long way, but I didn't feel safe without proper equipment. Many people do the pass without crampons, ice axes, tents, etc., but the weather is too unpredictable and I've read of too many close calls to want to chance it. Anyway, the trail between Phortse and Pangboche was more dramatic than any other on our trek.

I believe walking in from Jiri adds about 5 days, so you should have enough time assuming no flight, weather, or health delays.

There are 2 routes up the Gokyo valley. The west route, through Machermo, has better lodges, so it makes more sense on the way up (when you go more slowly and need more places to stay and eat). It also connects better with Namche. The east route connects more directly with the route to EBC. So if you are going from Namche-Gokyo-EBC-Namche, it would be fun to take both routes.

Jamie McGuinness's guidebook, "Trekking the Everest Region", has the best route details, including timing and information about Phaphlu.

Thanks for the info. A bit concerned about crossing Cho La from Lobuche side to Gokyo valley - how long is the section on glacier/snow? Lots of snow in late October/early November? I've trekked in Nepal before but I'm not a climber. I plan on skipping base camp and spend more time in the Gokyo valley. Other than climbing Gokyo Ri, I read that it's possible to head north from the village and walk to an area with 5 lakes. Have anyone taken that route? What's the condition of the trail (any trails?) If there's time for 1 valley, Kala Pattar or Gokyo? Thanks, happy travels.

I have trekked the Jiri-EBC-Gokyo-Lukla route twice, 23 days both times. For many reasons the Jiri-Lukla part is worth it (less people, nice scenery, mental & physical satisfaction, getting in shape before big hills).

I recommend EBC (or actually Gorak Shep/Kala Pattar, EBC is not really worth it) first for the bragging value. The high trail Pangpoche-Phortse-Na trail is so tremendous that missing ChoLa is no big deal if the conditions are not good.

After spending 3 weeks up there it is possible to hike Lukla-Jiri in 4 days fairly easy, in 3 if you do long days, see below.

) actually also once both ways + extras, 42 days total.

Gokyo is located on the 3rd of 5 pretty lakes. We took a dayhike to the 5th lake, from which there is an excellent view of Everest. We actually chose that dayhike over the more popular dayhike up Gokyo Ri, which reportedly has an amazing panoramic view. But they both sound worthwhile.

You will get differing opinions on the relative merits of Gokyo and the EBC/Kala Pattar region. Gokyo is certainly a much nicer setting than Lobuje, and the lodges are much nicer. Gokyo has fewer trekkers. And the views from Gokyo Ri and the 5th lake are arguably better than those from KP. On the other hand, I was drawn to the significance of Everest and loved being close to it. I was glad I did both and obviously that is your plan too. If you care about one more than the other, do that one first since all sorts of unexpected mishaps can prevent doing both -- that's why I did KP first. It's not clear which routing is more practical. KP first provides a safer ascent (it's more gradual, there's a great dayhike during a rest day at Dingboche, and there's a medical post at Pheriche). But Gokyo first makes it easier to go up the west side of the valley and down the east side as I described earlier. If you're taking the Cho La, I don't know which direction is easier.

The basic Nepal guidebooks I've seen don't offer much detail outside of the standard route to/from Everest. Is there a book that folks would recommend? Will I be able to buy that book in Kathmandu, or should I bring it with me?

Rourkem, the book I mentioned at the end of post #2 is by far the best. You can probably find it in KTM, but it's small enough that I suggest bringing it from home.

# 5:
Like you, I want to trek both KP and Gokyo and aware that things are unpredictable in the mountains. You mentioned ... fewer trekkers, better views ... on Gokyo side; all very appealing. Perhaps I'll do Gokyo first and see how much time I have left before heading to the Chunkung valley and KP. (I walk slow and take lots of photos) If there's not enough time - well, that's an excuse to return. I read that the Cho La crossing is easier from east to west; i.e. from KP to Gokyo.

#6:
I have a copy of 'Trekking in Nepal, West Tibet and Bhutan' by the late Hugh Swift. It's a great source of information and inspiration. I found it in a book store in KTM a few years ago. Bookstores in KTM have excellent selections on the Himalaya region, many of which are not available back home.

Hi there,

I did the trek you are going to take twice. The latest one was 16 months ago. 23 Days is more than enough for going to KP and Gokyo. I did it in 10 days last time, but dont try it in this short period as I did, cause I spent aorund 2 months in Tibet and Nepal before going up to KP.

For the view, I prefer KP rather than Gokyo. You could see Lhotse there, and from ny point of view, it is more beautiful than Everest. Check my site if you wish. http://www.digitalrailroad.net/k2stockphoto<BR><BR>By the way, you can cross Cho La after KP to Gokyo to save 1 or 2 days. As you have 23 days on the trek, you may like to go to more villages to explore.

Getting a plane ticket from Lukla to Kathmando is pretty easy. You can get it in Namche when you are doing the returning trek.

By the way, there is a german bakery in Namche and Tengboche, they made good bread and good coffee! Very nice after a a long trek.

Cheers!

Pardon my english.

yeung