Mera Peak

Mera is a trekking peak and as such it requires a guide. Mera is also off the main trekking routes and there are no teahouses so you will need guides and porters to sustain a fully independent camping trek.

Hi Rich,

TO climb Mera you have to use crampons, so bring them yourselves or try to find them in KTM. The crampons have to fit your shoes, and since I had two frostbitten toes on Mera, make sure your boots are warm enough. Plastic Mountaineering boots are perfect for this, you can keep on the inner shoes in your sleeping bag and every type of crampon will fit. The route is easy and never difficult. It follows a heavily trodden track up the mountain, you'll cross severall crevasses (not dangerous), and the last bit is rather steep (about 40 degrees). But as you'll start at about 3.00hrs, you'll need head torches and a sherpa who knows the way (or try to follow another group, because you won't be alone up there...).
To go alone on a mountain like this is madness, so go with some sort of group, or get yourself your own Sherpa, or try to stay close to another group, but don't go alone up there! You guys sound experienced enough to go up there, but you need assistance.
To get there, you'll need some sort of trekking party, so try to find a good Nepali trekking guide (I know a good one, who has been with us and several friends during 8 years...). There are only lodges on the trek in if you're flying in on Lukla. We did a trek from Tumlingtar, passed MAkalu BC, crossed East and West Col (about 6000m) just to acclimatise and then went south alongside Chamlang to Mera Peak. This was a very lonely trek, with extraordinary sights, but it'll take you at least 4 weeks to do Mera this way. We met several groups coming directly from Lukla, but they all suffered from HAPE...
The High Camp is at 5800m, and we had a night with -25Celcius in our tent, so bring a good sleeping bag. And add a down jacket for the evenings! High Camp itself are a lot of tiny platforms that will fit one tent, and make sure which side to get out, because on the other side will be a very big drop off.
From the summit we saw Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu, Chamlang, Ama Dablam and a lot of other big ones.

Have fun and be safe,

Marco

Marco,

Thanks for your fantastic post!

We're definitely won't be going alone, we just don't want to be with a large group having to stick to their schedule.

Cheers,

Rich

I climbed Mera in -85 with 2 sherpas (late Babu Chhirri was one of them) approaching from Amphu Labtsa and exiting via Zatrva La to Lukla. It was an easy one that time, just 4 hours up from the pass at 5400m and 2 hours down. Permit?? (times were different then).

I was at the same area in 2000, see Real Mera for more info.

I think Mera Peak would be just perfect place for you. You can easily arrange an expedition to the mountain, the cost if arranged locally is 50-70% less than the advertised prices of western operators. We paid $625/person for a 3 week 4 member trek Lukla-Lukla.

There are now a number of lodges along the way from Lukla, but not the same standards we see on the main routes.

If you need contact info of the agency which arranged the Real Mera climb send PM. They have arranged about a dozen treks/climbs for us during the last 15 years without problems.

PS I just love Via Ferratas, I have been there 5 times, Brenta mostly.

I can highly, highly recommend CAT treks for Mera Peak. Doug Scott's the Director, you can guarantee you'll be well guided and that the sherpas are paid fairly and treated well, and all profits go to Community Action Nepal to build schools and health centres. I had a phenomenal time with them!!

I would strongly suggest insurance that includes medivac - it's not risk free.