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I was planning to trek to EBC but I have read that it may be better to stop at Kala Pattar since there are views of Everest from there. I don't need to make it to EBC just for the sake of having been there. Mostly, I would just like to experience the view of Everest while being as close as possible (without dropping $50 000 and killiing myself on the way to the top). What do you think?

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You have two options from Gorak Shep, the last lodge on the EBC trail. Either ascend Kalla Pattar for great views of Everest and neighbouring summits or Everest Base camp from where you cannot see the summit at all but there are good views of the Kumbu Ice Fall. If you only have time for one then Kalla Pattar is much the better option but neither is a full day. Kalla Pattar is best done in the late afternoon for sumit views at sunset (much better than sunrise which is sometimes recommended but the sun is in the wrong position). If you have a torch you can leave the summit after the sun has set, descent is quite quick on a good trail - less than an hour I think from memory. People often do this on the afternoon/evening of the day they arrive at Gorak Shep. Base Camp is a short half day trip which you could do on the morning of the following day and either spend the rest of the day relaxing or set off back down - depending on the time you have available. As you are still at the planning stage you might consider Gokyo as an alternative or in addition. Gokyo Ri is quite a bit further away from Everest than Kalla Pattar but the views are actually better as you can see more of Everest.

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Kala Pattar and EBC are almost synonymous in trekkers parlance as in reality most people go only to Kala Pattar or actually the Pumori ridge behind Kala Pattar summit and do not bother with EBC proper at all. Still it is called EBC trek, you can see the camp from there... And the views are much better from KP.

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Both are worth doing but if you only have time for one then do Kala Pattar.

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It depends on what's important to you. You can't see Everest from base camp - this is common knowledge. The walk from Gorak Shep to base camp is pretty strenuous and takes 5-6 hours round trip. However, having done it myself, I wouldn't trade it for the world. I found it to be a huge thrill and a fascinating experience to walk on a real, living glacier, to see how the rocks shift and slide slowly beneath your feet as the underlying ice melts. I loved knowing that I was standing in the same place that most of the great names that climbed everest once stood, looked up the Khumbu Icefall from the same perspective that they did. The view from EBC, is should be noted, isn't chopped liver. You'd be hard pressed to find a view that spectacular anyplace else in the world - a 360 degree panoramic view of snow-capped glacier clad majestic peaks.

But if seeing Everest is your main goal, or you think the very tough hike to base camp which you will have to walk back along a short time later is going to ruin your enjoyment, then remember - you are doing this for nobody but yourself. If if won't make you happy, don't do it.

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5

I myself wouldn't care to descend KP in the dark. Most people arrive at Gorak Shep from Lobuche, so only the fitter trekkers would want to climb KP that afternoon. Personally I enjoyed seeing the sunrise over Everest, although it's true that photography is not optimum.

If you go to EBC outside of climbing season in April and May there will be nothing there.

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Many trekkers leave Lobuche early morning, often before sunrise, have breakfast in Gorak Shep and are on top of Kala Pattar by 9 am - that was my schedule the first time there in 1995 - but I have become a little wiser and a little older since then and don't think it is necessary to walk in the dark because your healdlamp batteries fail in the freezing temperatures. You can still be at the top of Kala Pattar in late morning when the sun is high and not bothering your camera lense. Resting and exploring, scrambling around Gorak Shep makes an interesting afternoon and if you are well acclimatized, a night sleeping there isn't too bad. Then you can decide the next day if you are up to a day walk to EBC, leaving your heavy gear behind in Gorak Shep. Walking on the glacier is interesting. Seeing seracs up close and personal at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall is quite unique. But although the climb is not as long and steep as Kala Pattar the ups and downs on loose footing over the morraines is a strenuous day and comes as a surprise to many people - it saps your energy at this altitude and shouldn't be under-rated. The views from the cairn on Kala Pattar (and during the climb) are magnificent and shouldn't be missed. If you have to choose between the two destinations, in my opinion, Kala Pattar wins hands down! (But then I also think KP is much better than Gokyo Ri)

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Thank you for your replies...I may just make it a "game time" decision when I am there. Also, I am planning on doing this trek in 9 days. I realize how ambitious this sounds but I have been living in Bhutan for three months now at altitude so I don't forsee struggling with AMS. I do have time if I shouls need to acclimatize but I would rather push myself a little. Is this feasible?

I have read a ton of the posts here and it seems like the feelings are mixed...also, if anyone wants to go with me, I would love to have a trekking buddy!

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If you've been living at altitude you may be all right but even without the risk of AMS 9 days is still pushing it. You should have a couple of days built into the schedule for unforseen events, like your flight being delayed. Just heed any warning signs for AMS, take it seriously. A couple trekkers died from it when I was up there and people were medavaced every day.

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