Kashmir in May/Jun

Hi funloving

I think i am supposed to say something to alert everyone to your extreme newbie situation, but i am not sure what that is as i have been away a while.

but anyhow, welcome to the forum. I hope you get a few useful tips out of us.

However, i have to warn you that i have never noticed much information arising on those precise topics you identfy above, specifically, trekking in Kashmir. But you never know, you might get lucky. Its as if there are few people who do this in Kashmir. I know people do, they just don't come here and share their experience very often.

I was in Srinagar in 2005 and loved it. I didn't go trekking although i did go up through sonamarg by jeep on my way to leh and i also met and hcatted with a couple of swiss women who did a short trek in sonamarg which organised by their houseboat man. They were very happy iwth their experience. On the other hand, I think the time to enjoy Gulmarg is in the winter when there is snow. The rest of hte time, i thinks its just a golf course. But if you get there and find something different, please come back and set the record straight.

I haven't actually heard anyone talking abou their experience in Pahalgam. Note thought that LP says the saffron flowers in October.

Anyway i hope my lack of inspiring advice doesn't put you off. Its often better to go and find out first hand.

But if you want any advice about Srinagar i can help you. First though, i would request you do some searches for "kashmir" and "Srinagar" so i can avoid repeating myself too much.

I won't comment on security since its a while i was there. just read the news.

Delhi - i very much enjoyed the craft museum and i regret not going to the national museum which gets good reports. If you are over in chowdy chook (how the hell is that spelt?) and near the red fort, step into the Jain bird hospital which is just across the road from it. I mean, have you ever been in one before, or heard of one for that matter. I think people like the Qatr tomb (?sorry correct name). I can't help you with accommodation except to say that connaught places seems to be less scary than the backpackers ghetto of pahar ganj. Scary as in extremely densely populated and grungy. Connaught place is open and modern but i didn't enjoy wandering round there much at all. I felt a little bit lost in all that space.

First time trekking. You probably need to ask some more specific questions. What you need to know also depends on what sort of trek you are doing, how difficult, and how much work are the organisers doing. On here one hears more about treks in Ladakh than Kashmir so i don't really know what you may need to know about trekking in kashmir.

But a general tip: have decent hiking boots and be prepared to wear two pairs of socks to prevent blisters if your boots are less than brilliant or your days a going to be long.

Hi, Welcome. I have not been to Kashmir but am going in the 3rd weekof April. Thought about it a lot and then have decided that its going to be ok. Have heard that the security is good now, the Indian Govt has alos started reducing the military. There may still be problems near Jammu but Srinagar, Pahalgam, Gulmarg seem to be ok. I am not into trekking so not of anyhelp there.

All newislanders at #2 points are good and correct.

Hi everyone,

Thanks for your advice. I felt so happy seeing some response to my queries.

Well it took me much contemplation before deciding on this trip. S.Karry, I share your sentiments about the security issues. I plan to travel in late spring/beginning summer cos I am from the tropics and I think I am not prepared to visit India, which I have never set foot on before in Winter. Also from travel guide books and agents in my country, May to October is the best season to visit Kashmir and to see flowers and greenery. Guess I was bought over by their sales pitch.

As for trekking, I am a total newbie. Fyi, my longest trek was in Samaria Gorge in Greece and that was done in just 1 full day. Thus trekking is not the main reason for this trip. I should say it's something new that I would like to try out and experience.

Could you guys/gals shed a bit more light to some other questions I have?

NewIslander, did you stay on a houseboat on Dal/Nagin Lake and how was your experience? Any advice for a female traveller to India?

S.Karry, what do you plan to do during your stay in Kashmir? Do you recommend that I pre-book accommodation and other travel arrangements ahead or would it be better to do it when I get to Delhi/Srinagar? I am also looking forward to hearing your latest update about Kashmir when you get back from your trip.

Funfareplayer, care to share some Iindia trekking advice/tips to this newbie here?

Funloving, in the strongest possible terms. DO NOT BOOK IN ADVANCE, either in Delhi or elsehwere. Some people do this and all goes according to their expectations but LP says in their book that most complaints about houseboats (a lot i think) have come from people booking in advance and especially in Delhi. The complaints are quite serious. I have read a few on here too.

Find your houseboat when you arrive. Ok, its a little daunting because you haven't done it before or been in Srinagar but trust yourself and don't trust any touts. Do not agree on any boat or price iwthout having first seen the boat and met the owner.

My experience was FANTASTIC. i stayed four nights on Nagin lake. I recommend it over Dal lake, especially during June when the place is full of indian tourists and the noise level on Dal lake will be too much. Nagin is more peaceful and very beautiful in a different way. Take pre-paid taxi to town, take rickshaw from TRC to houseboats on Nagin Lake (ask any questions at TRC). The driver should know where to go. The lake is the other side of the bridge and about 15 minutes from TRC. The boats are lined up along the shore next to a park. You walk across the park, go to the first boat or any boat. Start doing business wiht the owner. I paid 500r per night with meals. Have a look at a few boats if you can, so you can find an owner and boat you like and feel comfortable with. You will have to bargain to get this but this is a good price. The asking price when i was there was only 700r anyway so its not as if you have to bargain your head off. This will probably vary according to the time of the year. I was there in September when it was the quiet time. The food in town restaurants is excellent.

For more information from me about srinagar and managing there please do searches using "kashmir" "srinagar". I have written long informative posts on this topic and do not care to repeat myself every few days.

funloving, waste some time on the trekking branch for more info on trekking. Are you buying any sort of guidebook. At least get one from the library and do a bit of reading on trekking.

I think you will find it cool at nights in Kashmir, so take something warm for evening. The days should be warm except at altitude.

Trekking advice #2 always carry water. Try to avoid buying bottles of water. Do not leave any rubbish in the bush. Take it all home with you and insist any trekking leader or companion does the same. Take water boiled on the boat with you.

Trekking/tourist advice #3. Be wary about being charmed by lone men. The men in Kashmir, married or not will try to seduce you. Tell them you are single at your peril ;-). Make up a story about your husband and kids. I said i was a widow at one point, this is probably not particularly good choice in India. The most respected women are married and have children, preferably boys. You can stop lying to your houseboat man after you feel more acquainted but again, you become more vulnerable to their attentions - unlikely if they are religious. So dress modestly at all times: no exposed bosom please, long pants or long skirt, no tight fitting clothes.

Hi funloving i just came back from a few days in srinigar and i loved it! Once you enter the kashmir valley the scenery opens up in front of you it looks amazing.I stayed on a houseboat on nagin lake which was fantastic i will pm you the details if you want -very nice family great location very peaceful.The hardest part of the trip was getting there and back the trip from jammu to srinigar took 12 hours, with lots of landslides everywhere en route but even the views on the way up are worth it.As regards the security situation i encountered no problems, the military are very visible everywhere which you get used to after a while most just look very bored!I did however read there had been a police siege on the friday i left near nishat bagh mughal gardens where they killed some militants but this was in a residential area so probably wouldn't have encountered it.Just use your common sense you'll be fine.I also went to gulmarg which was fantastic the gondola gets really high up but not a lot to do there now unless you're skiing or sledging-snow is still really deep there be better come may i presume but the views from the top are stupendous.Hope you enjoy i loved kashmir can't wait to return.

Madd1, great to hear from you that Srinagar is still a nice and safe place to visit. Do pm me the details. Thanks.
Would appreciate if you could help clear some more of my queries.
How's the weather there now?
Did you visit the morning market, the old city and the mughal gardens? What type of meals are provided on the houseboats? Will an hour or two on a shikara be good enough to sightsee the whole lake or will i need to take a few of such trips to cover the essential sights on the lake?

That road route from srinagar to jammu is always a bit harrowing from most accounts. I would fly if i were you. I did and it was very pleasant.

meals on houseboats in my case:

breakfast: is often omelettes. I didn't want that and had kashmiri bread which i dont' like its very hard. eaten with jam and butter. so most of hte time i preferred to have left overs from the night before.
also the wonderful kashmiri tea

Dinner: would be meat and vegetables and rice. as in a korma type of meat dish but good. I only ate vegetables because i don't eat meat usually. the vegetable dishes i had were spiced stewed cabbage (which was good when my houseboat owner and his wife weren't trying to sabotage each others efforts with the salt pot. - just kidding. they did ruin one meal by accident this way however.) very delicious stewed spiced bean dish. Lentil/split peas soup/stew things which i love. and always basmati rice. I don't like indian rice that much its poorer quality than we get in oz. Their best is probably exported to us here.

It was nice to have a man waiting on you, i must say. But usually i would invite him to have a cup of tea with me. I got him to show me how to make Kashmiri tea. It was very charming.

you can cover most of the essentials of the lake in about half a day. But i would recommend more than this. When you go to the market, ask your man the night before if he can organise you tea whilst on board. It feels special to have breakfast while on the shikara. I took some cake along from the excellent Dal Bakery at Dal Gate and shared it with my paddle man. I think he took this as a cue that i was in love with him. ;-).

I really must put some snaps on flickr so i can show people.

Due to time constrain I will fly in from Delhi. I believe on a clear day, I should be able to get an amazing view on the plane. Nothing beats a good birds eye view at the start of a new journey.

Wow your experince on the houseboat sounds so wonderful. Do put some of ur snaps online. I can't wait to see them.

With your advice n you sharing your travelouges, I really feel I am more ready to make this trip. As a gal from a developed big city, I have my apprehensions of visiting India. The best thing I could do is to do my homework and be mentally prepared. Next will be relying on common sense and intuiation when I get there. But nothing beats meeting u and the rest of the thorn tree folks who are always happy to share their travel experiences with others. Thanks mate!!

Just to share this little tip from an Indian friend of mine who visited Uttar Pradesh last year. Gals, you are bound to meet some very charming and really good looking guys in North India. Those with blue or green eyes and can make it as upcoming bollywood stars. Lots of eye candy temptation so take heed of NewIslander advice 3 or you will be getting yourself into really sticky situations.