I really enjoyed my time at this little town.
Getting there:I took the BRTC bus from Chittagong, an option not mentioned in the guide book. This is far more convenient than slogging out to the bus station, as it goes from a separate depot in Chittagong very near the Station Rd hotels. Buses at 7, 8.30 and 10.15 am. There also buses to Bandarban from here.This bus terminates at the Reserve bazaar, so on arrival keep your eyes peeled for your hotel and jump off.
I stayed at Motel George. Other options were all booked up due to national holiday, but actually I was really pleased with this hotel. The rooms are big and clean though with some signs of age. No hot water but they willingly bring it in a bucket. Staff don’t speak much English but are very eager to please. The out of town location may well be a blessing in terms of peace and quiet. And the shared baby taxi system makes transport cheap and easy. 850 taka for a double,cheaper rooms also available.
Hotel Sufia reception staff speak excellent English and were very helpful to me with information even though I wasn’t staying there
Boat ride- I was adopted by a Bangladeshi family as soon as I arrived at the jetty, so have no idea about boat prices. Shuvalong waterfall in December was a mere damp trickle, but looks as if will be spectacular in rainy season. There are several restaurants on the lake. We ate at Chan Yang, very good food including local specialties such as chicken cooked in bamboo tubes, and fish in banana leaf. Tuk Tuk restaurant was also highly recommended to me.
Internet. Net Point just down from the Motel George had surprisingly good connection. Plus they play great music and may even serenade you with guitar and song
Market. Saturday and Wednesday- fabulous!!
I did the rangapani walk mentioned in the Bradt guidebook and found it very underwhelming. However Tobolchhari makes a great base for other walks. Many Chakma people live in villages near here and I had a great time walking on sandy paths and being invited in to homes for tea. When you get to the little market, take the left turn over a new bridge and just explore. This bridge is also a great photo spot at sunset
Lumbini Bon monastery. Can be included in your boat trip, or a walk from Tobolchari. Lovely serene place. The head abbot died recently and his embalmed body lies in state in a glass coffin. Every Saturday literally hundreds of people come to pay respects and light candles at dusk, so well worth trying to time your visit for this- a beautiful and peaceful sight. You will be proudly shown the refrigerated van, purchased for 25 lakh taka from donations, to bring his body back from Dhaka. I suppressed comments about how this sum could have financed an entire new health centre or school

carolinenixon
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