Uzbekistan - some questions

Everything you say about the Aral Sea and Moynaq is correct except for one thing: The Aral Sea is not quite gone yet. Almost though. See photos and account from my visit in October of last year - http://mytripjournal.com/travel-493304

hi gbloom,
Beautiful pictures. I am glad people still go there and pay tribute to the dying Aral Sea. I am really saddened every time I see pictures of the Aral Sea. It is a painful reminder that the lake can still be saved if the world decides it would do so, but instead we're throwing away the money on saving the banks and the wealthy.
You're right, what remains is the westernmost sliver also known as the "south-western lake" whereas it was the main part also called the "south-eastern lake" which disappeared last year. There are now some 5% remaining of the original size

Hi,

I'd just like to add some comments to the discussion about Fergana. I think it's a very interesting part of Uzbekistan, and well worth a visit. There are few architectural highlights here - everything old in Andizhan was destroyed by an earthquake, I could find little old-looking in Margillan, Fergana itself is a Russian town, and the palace in Kokand is mostly 19th century, if I remember correctly, and doesn't exactly match up with Timur's tomb and the Registan. However, the Fergana valley is the most traditional part of Uzbekistan, and it's a wonderful place to visit. People are very, very friendly, many don't speak Russian even, and it has a much more evident quiet, traditional pace of life than the rest of Uzbekistan. There are also some fantastic markets here - the ones I have been to are the bi-weekly markets in Margilon and Andizhan, both of which are plenty of fun (particularly the Sunday market in Andizhan). Also, Shahrisabz is definitely worth a visit, if only to see what un-restored Timurid architecture looks like.

One last point: the Uzbek police are an odd lot. I was spied on by OVIR (a branch of the police) while in Nukus, and that was hardly a fun experience. Outside of the main tourist towns, I think there's always the possiblity for problems.

Giora

Andijan, the horror never ends

Human Rights Watch: Stop Persecuting Andijan Refugees’ Families '

Uzbekistan - The West's Torture Farm - http://www.journeyman.tv/?lid=18419

An excellent Journeyman documentary shot on location. Craig Murray former UK ambassador to Uzbekistan, sacked by the Labour Government for uncovering the horrific atrocities committed by the Karimov regime, explains why the UK and the West are complicit in the torture and murders of political prisoners in Uzbekistan. Beware, there are horrific images in the video.

Hi there,

having read your posts here I got really willing to go and see the Aral Sea once we are there in Uzbekistan. I have contacted the agency in Nukus (which is recommended by LP) but the prices they gave me are ridiculously high!!!

1. From Khiva to Moynaq back to Nukus (Transportation Nexia) -150USD
   Total:$150

2. From Khiva to the Aral Sea + Moynaq (2 days trip):
   Khiva-Nukus (by Nexia) - $60
   Nukus-Aral sea-Moinak-Nukus (Uaz 4x4) -$460
   2 tents4 sleeping bagskitchen accessorries -$50
   Food (lunch-2, dinner-1, breakfast-1) - $30x4prs=$120
   Total:$690

3. From Nukus to the Aral Sea + Moynaq (2 days trip):
   Nukus-Aral sea-Moinak-Nukus (Uaz 4x4) -$460
   2 tents4 sleeping bagskitchen accessorries -$50
   Food (lunch-2, dinner-1, breakfast-1) - $30x4prs=$120
   Total: $630

Seems we cannot afford it to go to the sea... And it seems a day trip to Moynaq is expensive as well. Will it be possible to organise a day trip from Khiva to Moynaq and back and pay 100 USD if we ask around in Khiva or do you think it will be closer to150 USD?

If you decide to go to the sea and stay overnight not in any hotel, or possibly you go on a two day trek and sleep in a tent, you have no OVIR registration provided by the agency that organises the trek/excursion - what to do in such a situation?

You can do a day trip to Moynaq and see the boat graveyard for a fraction of that price. From Nukus there are buses and shared taxis to Kungrad. From there buses leave when mostly full for Moynaq. There's time to see the graveyard, then catch a bus directly back to Nukus. I did this as a day trip and spent not more than $20 (although i don't remember the exact amount)

However, to see the sea is expensive, long and difficult. While the prices quoted for the sea are high, there aren't that far off.

Hi fluffy_bunny!

I know it is easier and cheaper to go from Nukus, however we would prefer to skip Nukus due to lack of time and go to Moynaq directly from Khiva. I know it is plausible but I am wondering what the price will be.

Hi there,

I am a bit concerned abour registration requirements. One agency from Uzbekistan informed me that registration is required every 72 hours - can anyone confirm this? I am a bit worried as we are planning to travel by train overnight from Tashkent to Urgench and we will not have a registration slip for this night to show on departure... If 72 hours is true, then there is nothing to worry about, is there?

The train ticket can count as registration.