Nice specific information. Thanks so much. I've booked transportation and hotels through a local UZ travel agency, without guides, and hope to see as much of the country as possible. I'm sure personal tastes dictate what we all like. I love cities and usually find most pretty interesting. I'm not going to Khiva because of distance and honestly, I'm not sure I'd enjoy what I've read as a museum type quality. I opted instead for more time in the Ferghana Valley by car. We (my husband and I) don't have any scheduled tours or guide so it's up to us as to where to stop, do, etc. Same is true in Bukhara, Samarkand and Tashkent. It will be an adventure.
Yes, the roads will be bad but we have booked a couple of train trips as well - Tashkent to Samarkand and Bukhara to Tashkent - so we'll get some relief. Everything else, side trips from Samarkand and Bukhara also, will be by car. For me, nothing beats travel by car. I can stop anywhere I want, take side trips and really explore. I've seen incredibly bad roads in my lifetime and I suspect the roads and driving in UZ won't be a total shock. Worth the effort.
The money issue - specifically how to carry around so much cash (backpack?)- is a bit scary. I'm not used to carrying cash and find myself lucky to have parking meter change. This will be interesting.
I'm not staying in any of the mentioned hotels but I suspect our hotels will be OK but I appreciate your warning about the Uzbekistan Hotel. That's something everyone needs to know.
Thanks again