Notes on the Pamir Highway

I have just arrived in Khorog from Osh.

Osh has a lot of burned and closed businesses, the atmosphere is still that of worry, but there are no problems in visiting the town. As of last week, there was still a curfew from 10 PM to 7 AM. The new telephone number for Osh Guest House is: Ali @ 077 351 7876. A great place to eat is Cafe California. It is on the south side of the park west of Lenin street, close to the Post Office. Sorry for such vague directions but I was not able to pinpoint it on the LP map, I think it is missing some streets. A good place to stay, though more upscale than Osh Guest House is Tes Guest House. It was full at my time of arrival.

I hired a vehicle through a guest house to take me to Murgab for $250. Doing it in one day or two does not change the price. I suggest to overnight in Karakul. The scenery is beautiful. After Sary Tash, there are very few vehicles on the road. In spite of being the only vehicle at the borders, it took us between 30 to 50 minutes to cross both of them. I suggest you buy snacks in Osh as the rest of the trip the supply and variety really shrinks. It is very difficult to find still water until Khorog; sparkling is no problem.

I would not hesitate to use the same driver again. If you contact him directly, he said he would charge $200. He does not speak much English but his sister does: Abdilaziz 0773 36 05 86 / 0558 00 11 36. You can also ask a local person to call for you. Upon our arrival in Murgab, he negotiated for me another driver/car to take me to Khorog through the Wakan Valley for $350 (3-4 days; again, you pay for the distance not for the time). I met other travellers that had payed $600 for the same journey and their drivers did not speak English either.

From the main road to Langar it took us four hours. The road is in terrible shape but the scenery is outstanding, more dramatic and remote than from Langhar to Khorog. We only passed one vehicle going the other way and it was not the type who would give you a ride (seemed to me he was doing illegal business).In Langhar I stayed at Yodgor Guest House ($12 bed & breakfast, $15 with dinner). There is no electrical power to charge batteries until Ishkashim. Try to be in Ishkashim for the Afghan Market, on Saturday mornings from 9 on. In Ishkashim I stayed at Hanis Guest House ($12 bed and breakfast).

Flying Khorog - Dushanbe is very difficult. The plane has only 14 seats and it does not fly if the weather is not perfect.

I hope this is helpful. If you need more info, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Good advice- I hope to do this next year