Go to Uzbekistan. Enjoy it. And be careful

Hey everyone,

When you enjoy your trip to Uzbekistan, and there are lots of enjoy from (I was already planning to come back to visit other places we did not have the time to) - pay attention:
We enetred Uzbekistan from Osh. I filled the custom form in 2 copies, and the officer did not hand me back one of the copies. My friends got their copy. I realized it when we left the border and I came back to the guard and asked to return to the custom room to get my form back. He insisted it's impossible and I will not have any problem when leaving Uzbekistan.

At the end of the trip I left Uzbekistan alone. At the airport, the custom guy did not like the fact I did not have the form with me. After filling it up twice, he examined my stuff carefully and then sent me to room 211. There, in a small room with a bed, a policemen was dealing with 3 people at a time. It was me and 2 Uzbeks. He focused at me only. He started shouting lots of questions ("Mister, first time in Uzbekistan ?", "Mister, where is money exchange receipt from bank ?"). It was obvious for both of us I do no thave the money receipt form from the bank.
He poured all my stuff from my bag on the bed - cloths, money, documents, and of cousre all type of money. There was a big mess on the bed, and I could not remember what is with me and what is not. I answered that this is what I all I have and insisted on that. They he started to shout "No form, no flight ! No form, no flight".
I was not so worried about his threats and I thought that he really does not have much to do with a foreigner that was banned from his flight.
After he saw that nothing really moves, he said, near other local Uzbeks, "Mister, I am putting paper on bed, you put money under paper". I realized it's my only way out, Iput 50$ under it and he said "Last time you lose form, OK ?".
He let me go.

Enjoy Uzbekistan, just be very careful. I am a simple backpacker, just like you.

My only 'sin' was forgetting to demand back my custom form, a duty that the office should have done anyway.
And even if you lose that form, is that reason for something like the above ? This form seems to be a reason to get money out of tourists, not anything else.

O.

I expect to be arriving in Uzbekistan shortly. Much thanks for the warning.

I just came back from CA. I thoroughly enjoyed Uzbekistan - the people are absolutely wonderful...well, almost. At the border (ie dostyk) it is hand to hand combat. Complete chaos - the timid will be trampled and will never get to leave the customs area. I am 6'4" and 230 pounds and tiny men were ramming me from behind and large women were shunting me to the side whenever they could - using massive bags as a wedge to keep me to the side. But, that is just a painful memory.

Be sure to declare EVERY cent you have in EVERY currency you have. They thoroughly went through every dime looking for discrepancies. They also went through my computer, looking at every picture and book I had. And declare any medication. They are trying to ensure no codeine gets smuggled into the country - they are VERY serious about this. I took some ibuprofen (damn cheap vodka) out of its packaging and this caused me, ironically, a massive headache. It took me an hour at least with the lads at customs. Good humour, smiling and offering them some gum from home prompted them to finally let me go.

For what it is worth - Andijan and Kokand were simply fantastic. I am not sure why more people don't hang around these cities. Never have I met more friendly people - invited into homes, given food, assisted with money exchange on the black market (3400 - 1 USD on one occasion!) bus fare was refused, people would call friends who spoke English so we could chat...it was an odd and endearing experience. They would follow me through the supermarket helping me choose cookies and juice - showing me which products are better value and made in UZ. I spent four days in each city - you become an instant fixture if you buy your shwarma and vodka from the same store each day. I felt like a celebrity.

It was the highlight of the Stans for me. Well, okay, Samarkand was beyond belief in every respect. I could live in that city.