From Khorog to Dushanbe

Just a few words of advice on the trip from Khorog to Dushanbe:

- It's a long trip (14h to 16h) and the roads are mostly destroyed so it's a good idea to select the most comfortable car you can find in the bazaar. Avoid old Niva's and even UAZs since the ride might shatter your spine. Instead go for a nice japanses 4x4. It's really worth the extra money.

- The price from Dushanbe to Khorog is about 150 somoni BUT the price from Khorog to Dushanbe is ONLY 80 somoni (in a nice 4x4).

- Make sure to go to the bazaar in Khorog very very early (at 5 am). Even if it takes time to fill up the car with passengers, it's so much better to be the first person in the car and choose the seat next to the driver. The trip will be 1000 times more comfortable than on any other seat.

- Cars will try to leave as early as possible. 7 am is considered a late departure. The best is 5h30 am so that you can enjoy the whole road before it gets too dark.

- If you can, try to sit on the left side of the car so that you can enjoy the view on the Panj river and all the beautiful little villages on the afghan side. Even after Qala-i-Khanum, the left side is where you get the best view of the pass and the 40 valleys.

- Take some water as well as some food with you. You never know when the car will stop for breaks or for lunch (our car had lunch at 5 pm !).

- Don't expect to sleep during the trip since the views are really great and the road is so bad that sleeping becomes an acrobatic activity.

- On the road, you might be able to buy some honey in a village with a huge river (14 somoni a large bottle) as well as some milky drink (ab-dogh) from the nomads.

Enjoy the ride. One of the most beautiful roads I've seen.

w.