Pamirs: open or closed?

I just came back from 10 days in Badakhshan. The GBAO permit from Dushanbe worked fine the whole way. There are many checkpoints, but we had no problems except for one officer who asked for "5 dengi" without giving a currency. I said I'd call my embassy and he let us go with no hassles.

That being said, I also just heard of two Israelis who tried to go last week with their permits and got turned back, possibly at the Obi Garm checkpoint (intersection of M41 and A372). Unfortunately, this is just heresay and I don't have details. We were hitchhiking and walked by this checkpoint without being asked for documents.

We (one german, one spanish) traveled Dushanbe, Kulyab, Khorog, Ishkashim, Wakhan valley, Murghab, Osh, Khujand through Fergana, Dushanbe. One of us had a GBAO permit from a tajik embassy in Berlin but the other of us had to apply for a GBAO permit in Dushanbe and it was a bit of hassle (coming back to the OVIR office several times), but in the end we managed.

As the previous post says, expect many police controls + checkpoints between Kulyab & Murghab. We only had to pay $10 in one of them to let us go through (just after Kulyab in direction Khorog).

We encountered really few tourists (a german couple, plus two american girls). In all homestays they told us they did not receive any travellers in the last 2 months. Despite the warnings from several governments in Europe/US recommending not to trouble to GBAO, we did not notice any danger or unrest in khorog or further in the Wakhan, and local people were incredibly friendly and hospitable.

Lonely planet guide starts to be a little outdated, specially in the prices. Few remarks:
- There is now a ATM in Ishkashim.
- Price Dushanbe-Khorog in a shared jeep: 300 som (it was the price paid by other locals). Our driver was awesome (it was handy he was working with the militaries before since it made it easier in the checkpoints). He is called Ubai and his number is +992 935969120 (he speaks russian). We left Dushanbe at 10.00am and arrived to Khorog at 1.00am. We have heard of people arriving at 10.00am next morning.
- Price of a jeep from Khorog to Murghab through the Wakan valley: we got prices from $400-$600. Russian Niva: $400, Pajero: $500.
- There are plenty of cashpoints in Osh (lonely planet says there is a single one).
- No cash points, neither useable electricity in Bulunkul nor Murghab. In bulunkul, we recommend metrlodge sharodge "guest house". His number is +992 355421059, and he is the meteorologist of the town (he speaks russian).
- Shared car from Osh to Batken avoiding Uzbek enclaves, around 2,000 kyrgyz som per person. Locals paid less (1,000 kyrgyz som).
- In homestays in the Pamirs, we paid around $16 per person including dinner, breakfast and accommodation.
- We found prices in Osh (Kyrgyztan) much cheaper than Tajikistan. Coffee in Osh: $0.25.

Happy travels!
Manuel