Have just spent 8 days in GBAO with Pamir Guides who I recommend highly.
http://www.pamirguides.com/
Some hints-
Only reliable internet is in Khorog- good cafe next to post office with generally high speed. There is a pay by the hour wifi in Khorog which my computer automatically tried to connect to. $2 hr, $10 day. Tried it for one hour but it kept falling out.
Tried the internet at the Resource Centre in Murghab but it was slow and expensive. The sign inside says that you must pay for the petrol which the internet runs off!! (They have to charge up the generators)
If you are buying stones such as Lapis Lazuli, De Pamiri has a small selection. However, there is a booth about 100 meters towards town from the university, same side of road, with a much better selection at about the same price.
There is a new homestay in Khorog right in the centre of town. Lenina 58 Kl 30. Just up the laneway which goes to the theatre next to the town hall.
Tojqual and Nazar Mamadaminora. Ph 93480880, 935620803. Russian only. Family has 7 teenage daughters. $20 a night with meals. One daughter has English- Nadina, her phone 935050387.
There are bedbugs in Hanis Guesthouse in Iskersham, but not in my bed!! He he
The border between TJ and China DEFINITELY closed for foreigners- advised by someone in Customs at the KG/TJ border.
You should pay no more than $50 for taxi to Kashgar from Irkeshtam Pass. There is a $3 'hotel' at the pass on KG side- but only the desperate will want to stay there.
