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Just a quick check…I’ll be traveling from Afghanistan to Tajikistan next month, planning to cross the border at Ishkashim. I have the visa for both the countries but not the GBAO permit.

  1. Is it true that without the GBAO permit is impossible to make the crossing? Is there any other border crossing between both the countries that doesn’t require the GBAO in advance?
  2. Is the registration a one-time only process? How much does it costs as I heard that there have been different charges on those.

Regards,
regayov

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You may be able to arrange for a GBAO permit remotely with the assistance of a travel company such as [StanTours|stantours.com].

I am not sure whether my option would work for you at the border at Ishkashim. I was able to (a) print out, at an Internet cafe in Dushanbe, a pdf of my GBAO permit they emailed me and (b) use this to get as far as Khorog and (c) pick up my official copy at a partner travel agency in Khorog for use in the rest of the GBAO.

The folks at StanTours help folks traveling all around Central Asia with visas and permits, so they likely know if an unofficial printout of an officially-approved GBAO permit will work to cross at Ishkashim, or whether another option is possible for you. (For example, they may have a partner travel agency in Afghanistan or elsewhere on your travels who could provide the official copy.)

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