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Hey travel buddies.
I was travelling trough Pamir the last weeks, in Murgab i met several backpackers who were straight ahead travelling from khorog to murgab in 1 day, and murgab to osh in another. so 2 days pamir.
There was a upcoming discussion that night in Murgab, wheter its possible to see Marco Polo sheeps in the Pamirs in summer or not. I heard some interesting opinions of backpackers who didn*t really have an idea about the country. It is probably the generally opinion most backpackers are talking around, like a general fact, I also heard it in Dushanbe, and i always have to correct>

FACT is>

It is possible to see Marco Polo sheeps in summer, in the high mountains arount Jarty-Gumbez. In summer the sheeps retire to cold places close to the snow, so quit high in the mountains. Jarty-Gumbez is a place really off the beaten track where most travellers never go, in the far South-East of Tadjikistan. To get accomodation and a stay in Jarty-Gumbez you have to contact Atobek (owner and like a local Mafia guy, good friend to the president and the only guy in the area who has the license to hunt Marco Polo sheeps) first!
Generally it is not allowed for tourists to go and stay there, just if you pay 30 000 USD for hunting with Atobek. But some agencies in Dushanbe have good contact to Atobek and can help arranging a overnight stay and even transport.
Atobek or his friends can take you in a 4x4 far away to the high mountains, really close to Afghanistan, where you can see dozens of Marco Polo sheeps, even in summer!
So dont let you confusing by opinions of unknowing backpackers..

Have a good travel in this fantastic Pamir landscape,

Best, Michael

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I agree that Jarty-Gumbez is likely a good place to see these sheep. I visited the area (but didn't go all the way to Jarty-Gumbez) for a day to see the ancient rock carvings near a yak-herding hamlet and found several shed sheep horns during the day.

You can arrange to see these rock carvings as well as yak milking -- and to see this amazing landscape, and possibly sight a sheep -- by making arrangements in advance or in Murghab with the Murghab Eco-Tourism Association (META) (a community-based organization launched with support from French NGO, ACTED).

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I've seen Marco Polo sheep in the Eastern Pamirs on the road up from Karakul towards the Kizil-Art pass but it was early May and the snow was particularly heavy that winter and still lying on the road.

As suggested, the far South East is probably the best option and I've seen them around Jarty Gumbez and also in the Zorkul valley. Note that this is well off the beaten track and you should look for a reliable tourist operator to take you down there - there isn't much passing traffic to help you out if you get stuck through breakdown, snow or mud (all are possibilities in the summer).

Zorkul requires a special permit as its a national park and protected area (at least in theory) - another reason for having a reliable tourist operator as you have the potential to be challenged by anybody down there and asked for money. The park manager doesn't wear a nice uniform denoting his right to ask for the permit fee! However, Zorkul is very special and worth the fee. I'd recommend it.

I've seen evidence of Marco Polo in the valleys around Rangkul and the upper Bartang but never seen them for myself. I even got served Marco Polo in a house in that area - the local agency representatives nearly choked when they were told... ...it did taste particularly good though and the animal was already dead by then....

Try to keep clear of the hunting fraternity - they hunt trophies for money and don't care about anything except the rich clients who hang these things on their wall in Moscow, Astana, etc.

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Note (re my previous post above): The organization I knew as META is now the Pamir Highway Adventure tour company.

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Please note that META is still functioning as an orgainstation. However, its focus is now strictly 'not for profit' and it has returned to striving for:
- the promotion and rational use of biodiversity;
- the support a better management of natural resources; and
- the creation of sustainable economic opportunities for the indigenous population of the Eastern Pamirs of Tajikistan through the continuous development of community based tourism activities.

You can find out more about META's activities at http://pamirhighwayadventure.com/eco-projects/

Kind Regards,

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