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Dear All

I'm now in Dushanbe, waiting for the GBAO permit. It's rumoured that the road to Khorog will be soon re-opened. At this moment, what tourist could do is to take the flight to Khorog. Anyone already in Khorog or other towns? Your updated situation of the area will be highly appreciated! Thank you.

Tse

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1

I have made the flight from Dushanbe to Kuhrog. The approach in down a very narrow valley with no room for mistakes or bad weather. I rode a Yak 40 (read OLD) and doubt if the fleet has been upgraded.
Flights will not take off is there is even a hint of wind, rain, storms or any other climatic event. We stayed in Dushanbe 3 extra days just waiting for the weather to clear, and if you plan to fly from Khurog to Dushanbe the same wait is required. I ran out of money in Khurog and had to make arrangements with the Aga Kahn Foundation to front me some money for my room until I could reach Dushanbe. Fortunately I knew the AKF director in Dushanbe.
That ride is not for the faint of heart, but er well stimulating, and a darn good cure for constipation.

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2

@99dragons - was that recent?

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3

How long does it take to get a GBAO permit in Dushanbe? The embassy in Vienna won't give me one (they say they have suspended them altogether).

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4

You used to be able to get a Pamir permit within a day, sometimes even within 3 hours, at the OVIR office. Whether or not you would be allowed to cross the border into GBAO is a separate and open question these days. @cescuflies

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