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I am planning to go through Afghanistan from Turkey all by land (preferably not with flight) in this April / May and plan to stay there around 2-3 weeks before keep going the direction to China, could anyone suggest the best cross countries route as well as inside Afghan? I prefer visit some villages and mountains but not sure if the weather is warm enough to do so.
Besides the dress code, how else and where I should pay attention as a sole woman?
Thanks!

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You cant at least go overland to Afgahnistan from Pakistan (Peshawar via Khyber pass,Torkham in to Jalalabad and onwards) because the border has been sealed and the permits re not issued to foreigners by local government, from last a couple of years due security reasons and intense military operation against militants in the tribal region of Pakistan.

So better give it a try (if overlanding) from Iran and then fly in to Islamabad or Peshawar as KAM air and PIA operate flights from Kabul to the mentioned destinations and the flights re considerably cheap.

From Rawalpindi take a NATCO or SILK Route bus to Gilgit and it takes longer then before (about 20-22 hours) because the Chines workers widening the KKH.

The Pak/China border will open by 1st of May.
DOs and Don't.
Use your common sense and expect more attention from the man (in Aghanistan/Pakistan) then anywhere else and don't respond to unnecessary conversation from man and do not offer shake hands.

Wear appropriate dress (Shalwar Kameez) but it is not guaranteed to prevent things but it helps.
You will be stared at anyways,its a part of Pak/Afghan culture.

Also do not except any help or take the offer for cup of tea,drink or dinner specially and don't leave your drink unattended.

Always stay alert and follow proper precautions when talking to stranger (and there will be many who might try to be friendly) it's advisable to keep it short and not to reveal much about your plans or business (some would want to spend time with you or show you around... they might just be polite but avoid it).

In addition,do not trust or fellow street vendors for lodging,tour or any other thing.
On the road while walking mind your purse,wallet and day pack specially the passport.
Ask around where ever you are about.I think most nice people would be kind enough to you because you re alone and female.
Do not trek off the beaten trails on your own,if you re getting guide or porter go to authorized trekking company or ask in your hotel reception.

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2

Bonjour from Peshawar,

You coould make it from Kabul to Peshawar, travel with other locals, car from Pul-e-Mehmood Khan Kabul to Torkham, via sarobi, some 4,5 hrs, but please check thenature of your Pak visa before that.
Or take a flight from Kabul to Islamabad or Peshawar
Ariana Airlines
Kam air

You'll have to take the Mashad-Herat route to enter Afghanistan, take a Kam air flight to Kabul, the safest way.

Follow the dress code, Shalwar, Kamees and wrap yourself in a long shawl, some friends are Kabul based journalists from Spain and they dress like locals, to prevent yourself from the perils.

From Islamabad, it's some 20 hrs journey to Gilgit and then add 5 to 7 hrs more to the Khunjerab pass to China border.
Khunjerab pass will be passable for the traffic from the 1st of May 2010, please keep it in your mind.

Or try to arrange a flight from Turkey to China, direct or connecting, that is the best way.

Je vous souhaite un bon voyage.

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thanks for all the advices.
i am asian looking and have been to PK before for 2 months so this time i will only cross the border back and for to central asia and then china.
could you pls suggest the places to go if i will be there around june or july?
thanks

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4

Hi from Chitral.
To be honest no idea about the must visit places in central Asia and China though if you come over to Pakistan again do visit Peshawar,Chitral,Kalash valleys,Gilgit,Baltistan region,Yasin valley,Phandar valley.

Edited by: shandurheights

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Pleasure is mine, I hope someone will come up with better ideas and updates about the mentioned destinations.

Ciao,

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6

{quote:title=jpmo wrote:}{quote}
Besides the dress code, how else and where I should pay attention as a sole woman?

I worked with a lot of rural woman in Afghanistan and got warned by my female Afghan colleagues and other women who had lived in the country for a long while about the following:

-- Say you are married and that you are traveling to meet your husband in the next town or next country. A boyfriend or fiance is not good enough, a divorcee is scandalous and a lesbian unheard of. Your marital status is HUGELY important with regard to how you are treated in the country, especially the longer you are there.

-- For many Afghan men, you will be the only woman they have talked to outside of their families, and the most innocent gesture or statement on your part that would be just fine in, say, Egypt, can be wildly misinterpreted in Afghanistan. You can be pleasant to everyone, ofcourse, but remember that certain things just don't mean the same thing in Afghanistan that they do in other countries.

-- Talk to Afghan women as much as possible, and don't hesitate to ask that a woman be present wherever you are.

Men from outside of Afghanistan aren't automatically safe. On the contrary, I felt safer around some of my Afghan male colleagues than some of my male colleagues from other countries. The earlier comments about watching what you drink is right on. And do not EVER be alone with ANY man or group of men -- not so much because he or they might do something, but because how this can (and will) be interpreted by others.

Remember that travelers who had a great experience in Afghanistan post here and say so, because they believe their experience will be everyone else's -- but travelers who've had a really bad experience in Afghanistan usually don't post to Thorn Tree. And there ARE travelers who have bad experiences in Afghanistan, including women. There's no local authorities there to deal with the problems of foreign travelers, especially foreign women, and the aid agencies that help their women employees with problems (robbery, assault, rape, etc.) don't broadcast those problems to the media.

Pick a safe house (or two) in every city, in case of attack. For instance, in Kabul, AREU, on Chicken Street, might let you in if you need protection. Your Embassy probably won't, once they go on lockdown -- but be sure to register with them regarding your trip before you leave, and let them know where you are staying, as that will help in your efforts to get evacuated if need be. Always know exactly where you can go in case of attack and evacuation.

I have much more advice for women aid workers in Afghanistan, but I think you will find a lot of the advice helpful as well:
http://www.coyotecommunications.com/travel/afghanistan/women.html

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Thanks Jayne, your information is very useful and I may have a male friend to travel with me.

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That's a very good idea to travel with a male companion in a country like Afghanistan.
Enjoy your trip.

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9

That is a better idea, having someone with you.

Moreover, I really appreciate the information posted by Jayne, something from an insider, that is very important.

Bon voyage mes amis..

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