Hi all,
Me and four friends are planning on going to Yosemite national park this August for around 3 days as part of a road trip across the western US. We would like to know what are the best hikes and routes to take in Yosemite. We're looking to get as much variety as we can during the trip, so we can get a little taste of everything for the short time that we're there. That means seeing mountains, valleys, meadows, forest, as much as we can. We also prefer difficult lengthy hikes. We plan on doing one long 2-day hike and another day hike, or we might possibly extend our stay to 4 days and do a second 2-day hike, depending on how appealing our options are. For reference purposes, our maximum hiking distance in the past was about 14 miles a day, so we're looking for something along the lines of 10 miles a day so that we can hike comfortably. We're also looking (if possible) for landmarks, such as lakes to swim in (most preferred) present somewhere in the route so we have a place to stop at and rest.
We know Yosemite could get really crowded in August, so it's a big preference for us to find something with solitude. Hopefully that shouldn't be too hard because we'll most likely not be staying in the Valley (we're looking to you guys to suggest where exactly to go!)
As much detailed information as possible would be really appreciated (ex. Where to camp for the night, which exact trail to take, what to expect to see, etc).
Is it better to park the car in one spot and do one long hike deep into the park, or would we see more by doing smaller hikes and driving to different parts of the park at night?
What should we expect in terms of crowds, rainfall, and permit-restricted hikes?
Also, are there any interesting attractions and activities besides for hiking that we should consider? Would something like mountain biking be recommended for Yosemite?
Thanks for all the help!
What should we expect in terms of crowds
Addressing just this question:
https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/traffic.htm
An editorial from last year:
https://www.nationalparkstraveler.org/2017/07/op-ed-yosemite-so-crowded-you-cant-park-youll-still-pay-enter
Others who've been to the park during a recent summer should be able to answer the other questions but indications are that Glacial Point and Tioga roads, Hetch Hetchy and some other areas are far less congested than Yosemite Valley.
We also prefer difficult lengthy hikes.
Clouds Rest.
If you really want to make it difficult, leave from the valley floor and hike via Vernal and Nevada Falls (it's noted as one of the alternatives in the link). This could also be done in two days as a round-trip or a one-way (with shuttle service).
What should we expect in terms of crowds, rainfall, and permit-restricted hikes?
Crowds generally stick to the valley. Overall, the only trails that have crowd issues are the John Muir to Vernal and Nevada Falls (they after that, it's dead), Yosemite Falls Trail (especially the lower, which is an easy walk), and Tuolumne Meadows (also easy). If you get beyond these, or get to them very early, you'll be practically by yourself.
The only permit-restricted hike is Half Dome. The lottery for the season is over, but the park issues daily permits, with applications accepted two days in advance. Half-Dome is also crowded, but not in the same way as the other trails I mentioned (mainly thanks to the permit requirement).
Back-country hiking and camping, requires a permit, but this is more formality to ensure they know who's on the trails.
Be wary of weather when in high elevation areas, especially the domes. Lightning strikes are not terribly uncommon when storms are near. Also, recent rains can make the rock slippery. Again, be careful.
lakes to swim in (most preferred)
Tenaya Lake. Which, incidentally, is near the trailhead for Clouds Rest. It would make a good return point.
Don't be fooled by anything you see about Mirror Lake. This is a seasonal lake, and will be dry by the time you arrive.
Is it better to park the car in one spot and do one long hike deep into the park, or would we see more by doing smaller hikes and driving to different parts of the park at night?
There isn't much "driving to the different parts." Parking is generally limited, and road-accessible campgrounds even more so. In fact, most campgrounds not in the back-country will likely be fully reserved by the time you reach any of them "at night." Even the first-come, first-served spots can have lines for spots starting early in the morning, even as early as 6 am in the valley.
You can generally get away with parking your car and leaving in one spot the entire trip. The exception would mostly be the upper reaches, along Tioga Pass Road, where the shuttles are less frequent.
Yosemite Valley will be very crowded, try to go during the weekdays. It'll be a zoo but the weekends even more.
Consider camping up on top along Hwy.120 at a first come campgrounds like White Wolf - Yosemite Creek - Porcupine, they will be your best bet to get a camp site, show up early by 10am or so and work it. Then maybe do a day trip down to the Valley, start very early.
Some very nice hiking right out of White Wolf and Yosemite Creek on the other side of Hwy.120 to the top of the Falls. You could do an easy loop out of both, get a hiking map for better ideas. This is a very nice area.
https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/brochures.htm
Look at Crane Flat/White Wolf hiking map
What's your overall route? If your entering from the east, Tioga Pass, there are tons of cool hikes in the eastern Sierra's where you'll get plenty of solitude and awesome scenery with out the crowds of Yosemite Valley.
Like outside of Bishop, south-north lake and Toms Place just to mention a couple. Mammoth Lakes might be a better option for Mt. Biking, lots of variety. It has nice hiking as well. Do a nice loop up to Thousand Island Lake for example.
Are you planning on an overnight back pack trip, do you have all the gear?
You'll need permits for any over night trip, day hikes are no problem.
Lakes and streams are all over but the water will be cold.
I would do the suggested clouds rest hike 100%. Also a hike up Yosemite falls and out to the top of El Capitan should give you a solid work out for the day. I don’t know as much about over nights but if you can do the valley floor to the lakes via clouds rest that’s like the perfect Yosemite hike.
Once you get like a mile away from a road the place is mostly empty anyway. Vernal falls is the most popular hike in the valley but as mentioned once you get past that it’ll be empty.
Half done is overrated in my opinion. Clouds rest gives you an epic view of the valley and no permit and very few people.
While August can be very hot in the Valley one very scenic hike starts at the Hwy.120 Porcupine Creek Trailhead to North Dome ,than North Rim trail to Yosemite Falls Overlook, than down Yosemite Falls Trail to the Valley . Take YARTS back to Hwy.120. Have a great trip !
The only permit-restricted hike is Half Dome...Back-country hiking and camping, requires a permit, but this is more formality to ensure they know who's on the trails.
Half Dome is the only permit-restricted day hike, but all overnight hikes are permit-controlled in their own way. Its not a formality. Its based on a trailhead quota system, only a certain number of people are allowed to start overnight hikes from a given trailhead each day.
Once you begin the hike, you can mostly go wherever you want, but some trailhead permits also specify where you spend the first night, and if you want to camp near a High Sierra Camp you must use the designated campground.
My only experience in Yosemite Valley was in August, and it was crowded like a shopping mall at Christmas. The John Muir Trail up to Nevada Fall was sheer lunacy; it was quieter above that, but I wouldn't call it "dead" by any stretch. Above Little Yosemite Valley there was more solitude along the trail, although the vicinity of the High Sierra Camps feel like you've stumbled into an Army campaign. The deep backcountry of the park is mostly empty.
FWIW, if I could only do one backcountry hike in the Sierras, it would not necessarily be in Yosemite.
Okaydoke, a helpful page on renting required bear canisters (if you don't have them or aren't camping where they're provided) from the NPS:
https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bearcans.htm
https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/bearcanrentals.htm
Shlomo, as bears aren't generally ambling around the Netherlands, thought it was worth the mention.
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