choquequirao without guide ?

Yes you can go to Choquequirao without a guide - I did it with a friend about 14 months ago when I was lucky enough to be in SA. It was a while ago and is a little bit tricky but here's what we did...
Head on a bus toward I believe Cachora. A big problem is that I don't think the busses actually stop in Cachora but instead along the road to get to Cachora. Anyways you gotta pay attention and get off at the right spot...ask some people on the bus they will tell you. When you get off the bus you then need to get a taxi into Cachora. It is downhill a pretty long way ( I think it took us 40 mins to get to Cachora from where we got off the bus at the main road). From here we just asked some of the locals and they kind of pointed us in the direction to start the trek. In town you can usually find people who are willing to go with you to choquequirao and bring their horses so you do not have to carry your backpack. I would HIGHLY reccomend this! It is super cheap but keep in mind that the 'guide' (he is really there more to watch the horses and feed them) typically expects you to feed him so make sure you have enough food. The trek is really, really, really tough! You start pretty high, hike all the way down to the Apurimac River and then all the way up to the ruins on the opposite side of the river. We did it in four days. There are a couple of camping sites one of them is right before you get to the Apurimac River and the other is right below the ruins. Day two of the trek is super hard. My friend and I have been trekking our entire life and it was by far the hardest trek we have ever done. The ruins are absolutely gorgeous. We woke up early and saw the sunrise from the ruins and were the only ones around! All in all the trail is pretty easy to follow and you will see other people doing the same trek, but the pain is getting to Cachora and then finding where to actually start the trek. You can see some pictures from my trek here...
Pictures of Choquequirao Trek
Please feel free to ask anymore questions and I will do my best to answer them. Most of all have fun...I wish I was there now instead of in an office all day!!! Oh and when you are ready to return to Cusco just get a taxi out of Cachora to that main road again and then sit by the side of the road and wait till busses go by. When they do flag them down...one of them will stop for you (we waited only an hour or two i believe). Later, Matt

Any bus from Cusco to Abancay will drop you at the junction to Cachora (lots of companies leave from bus terminal, junction is about 4hrs from Cusco), from there colectivo taxis will take you to the village. As #1 recommends getting a mule + muleteer is a good idea as a much tougher trek than Inca Trail. 2 years ago cost around us$10/day. They'll show you the route too, though once you're out of Cachora theres only one trail and you cant really get lost.

I did the trek on my own backpacking. The start of the trail at Cachora is not well indicated, you have to ask the way. After 1 or 2 kms, there will be only one trail and zero possibility for errors.
The problem is the heat in the Apurimac valley. Do both climbs (on your way there, and on the other side on the way back) either very early in the morning, or late afternoon.
There are not many places to camp (not much water on the way until the Apurimac river).