Advice on potential Chile Travel

Hi,

I have 2 weeks coming up in May (last 2 weeks) where I was thinking of doing some traveling. I know its very last minute, but unfortunately, that's that. One of the potential places I am looking at traveling to is Chile (and Easter Island).

I am going to be solo-traveling most likely. I am interested in photography as well as astronomy (so, astrophotography goes without saying). I am also into nature/history/architecture etc... And to some extent, motorcycling and hiking. Though being solo traveling and carrying some important gear, I am afraid of venturing too far out, for fear of getting robbed or losing my valuables (last thing i want is to loose my camera and all my pics etc...).

Current thinking is that I would get good opportunities on the Easter Island, as well as parts around Atacama Desert.

How long would you recommend I spend on Easter Island? And the Atacama?
Any other recommendations/places to see that offer what I would be interested in (as mentioned above).
And would it be possible to put: Easter Island, Atacama Desert, Patagonia into one visit? I know Patagonia is going to snowed in. So, I am almost tempted to drop it and make a second visit for it later in life.

Also, I am from Canada/NE US. How "cold" is it really going to get? When I think "cold", I am thinking Canadian winters. -20C easy.

You don't really have time to do three destinations in two weeks. I would drop Patagonia. You can do it in winter but it takes more time and more planning as transport options are much fewer and much of the lodging closes.

Easter Island deserves a clear three days as an absolute minimum, but I would add on a day or two in case of rain. The closer you get to your travel dates the more expensive flights to EI become. See if you can work it into your main ticket as that sometimes brings the price down.

San Pedro also deserves at least three days. There is a night stargazing tour which is worth doing. You might consider one of the 3-4 day tours to the Uyuni salt flats in Bolivia from San Pedro, an amazing experience.

If you are really into big telescopes, you might consider visiting one of the really big ones like Paranal. But it is one day a week and you would need to provide your own transport and logistics need to be well planned as these telescopes are literally in the middle of nowhere.
http://www.eso.org/public/unitedkingdom/about-eso/visitors/paranal/

Hey Femby,
Thanks for your input. I did a little more research over weekend and have a few questions:
1. About Paranal, I read on the site that tours are available for free on Saturdays and that it needs to be approved. Do you have any idea how long of a "wait" period there is? I read on some third-party site that you have to book months in advance!
2. Assuming its not months in advance, whats the closest city that I could go and stay at, and then travel from there? I read on the website that I have to pack enough fuel for the return journey. Is it really that far from any near cities that I can't do it on one tank of gas?
3. I wanted to see the Algarrobo pool. Turns out, its pretty expensive to stay there. Is it possible to just have a day-trip to see it/take pics etc? Or do I have to stay there?
4. The bus trips from Santiago to San Pedro de Atacama. Is the direct bus 20 hours, or the local one that stops at every place ? And are they overnight? I am debating between 100-120$ for a return bus ticket vs 200-250$ for a flight. Obviously time is the concern here.
5. Any accommodations (maybe camping?) available in the Atacama area for overnight staying? I am wondering about doing some night photography.

My current "theoretical" plan is:
Arrive Santiago, and then leave for Easter Island. (one day gone in travel)
Spend 4 full days on Easter Island.
Travel to Santiago, and leave for San Pedro. (one day gone in travel)
Spend 4 full days.
Travel to Santiago, and go to Valparaiso. (one day for travel).
1 day for Valparaiso.
Travel to Santiago, and enjoy Santiago and wait for my flight back home.

I am trying to fit it in 14 days. But if required, I can extend it by another 3.

1. I don't really know how long in advance you have to book, but I imagine it is a few months out since visits are only one day a week.

2. It is about a 2 hour drive from Antofagasta. Obviously these large telescopes have to be far from cities. It is about the same distance north from Taltal, but that was damaged badly with the recent floods and I don't know what the lodging options are. Car rental and lodging are easier in Antofagasta.

3. Forget it. You can only go into the complex if you are renting a flat. Otherwise it is a long walk down the beach just to look through a fence. It really isn't worth going to see.

4. Turbus goes direct and takes 24 hours. It really is better to fly to Calama.You could break the bus trip, though not into equal parts, by stopping in La Serena (roughly 7 hrs from Santiago by bus) and visit the Elqui valley. Do a google for telescopes/stargazing and the Elqui valley.

5. In order to do night photography you have to get away from urban lighting, which means the desert. It gets really cold at night in the desert. Take a night tour.

Two weeks ago I flew Santiago to Antofagasta, not far from San Pedro. The round trip with Lan was $ 101 usd, there were more expensive fares also for the same day. And the Ibis hotel on week end was $ 60 usd each night.

Hey Roberto, thanks for the advice. I was just looking at the map, and decided to get the cost of flight to Antofagasta a shot. And yes, it turns out to be quite a bit cheaper! Something to do with LAN flights and not using Sky flights.

Hey femby,
Thanks for the help. I appreciate it. My trip is now becoming more and more real as I research more and plan more. Wohoo.

A few more questions:

1. I am considering driving in Chile, from Antofagasta to San Pedro. My two concerns are - safety and fuel. How safe is it to drive (getting robbed/stolen)? I am solo traveler, most likely renting a pick-up. And how frequent are gas stations? Internet research says to fill up often and keep spare fuel and tire. Are gas stations that uncommon? Do I have to go into the cities to get gas, or will I find some on the highway?

2. I am thinking of keeping the pick-up for my stay at San Pedro (3.5 days), and using it to go sight-seeing, instead of tours. Is that recommended? I read someplace that driving on the sand can be tricky. But I also see google-maps car driving everywhere and the roads are pretty good quality. I intend to see (Geyser del Tatio, Valle de la Luna, Salar de Tara, Machuca, Grand Crater, Salt canyon, Three Maries, Salt mines, Salt Caves, Valle de la Muerte) - yeah, I picked them off tour sites and wikitravel.

3. Where are the spots to find other travelers on Easter Island and San Pedro? I am looking at hostel booking, and some of them seem to have a few beds already occupied. So, I am hoping I am on the right track (ie, picking good busy hostels). But, considering how small these two places are, I am guessing there's probably a "hang-out" spot for travelers (below 40s). I am 30 myself.

4. Any finally, some of my flights are taking off at very early hours (before 10 am) or landing very late (after 10 pm). How safe is it to travel from airport to hostel? This is for Santiago. I am not much concerned about Easter Island, given how small it is, but if you have an idea on that, then do let me know.

Once again, thanks for all your help. =)

It is perfectly safe to drive by yourself. Petrol stations are further apart in the north because you are driving through a lot of desert. You need access to water to open a petrol station. So everyone keeps topped up and knows how far their vehicle can go on a tank. You should check what sort of mileage a pick up gets.Not much is my guess.

San Pedro is very small and you will probably meet others wherever you stay. It is one of the advantages of the tours too. You meet others. Night life is minimal in San Pedro because that's how they want to keep it. If you want a beer you have to also have something to eat. Still, party people find parties.

There are shared transfer vans from the airport to any point in Santiago and you can book them to return to the airport as well. It is perfectly safe.

Thanks again femby.

I agree with you that tours are also a great way to meet people. The biggest drawback is that you have to stick to their schedule and do the things their way. I love photography and like to take my time shooting. And on this trip, I have a feeling, Chile has a LOT to offer in terms of photo-moments.

I researched a bit more about driving in the Atacama. There's a gas station in San Pedro itself as well it seems. I am going to be renting a 4x2 pick-up and planning on self-driving to all the sites. Hopefully that should be good. I am curious about a few things:
1. I read somewhere that a 4x4 is required. There's some river that needs fording. Is my 4x2 going to be an issue? Apparently, on some sites they said regular cars can also get to the region, and some guy even claims to have done it in a VW 32 years ago! I plan to visit: Geyser del Tatio, Valle de la luna/muerte, Machuca, Salar del Tara.
2. What's the weather/road conditions like generally in that region of chile at this time of year. I see pictures showing dry dirt roads, but then read some places about snow and rain!

The weather has always been great for me although it has rained the last two times the day after I left, an almost incredible coincidence. Also, I have only got around on paid tours and never saw an impassable road, but perhaps tours stay away from bad roads, not sure , their might be. Note that the Geyser are seen best early in the morning although for me they have never been very impressive. Early in the morning because the steam is visible, not so visible once the sun comes up. Do not miss the high elevation lakes or the flamingos. Good luck.

@roberto1938 - What high elevation lakes you speak off? Lagunas Altiplanicas/Cejar? Any other? How far are they from San Pedro?

I only have 3 full days in San Pedro, after reaching there late afternoon on Thursday. Hopefully Thursday/Friday should help with altitude acclimatization. Keeping Saturday for Geyser, and maybe Salar De Tara. Sunday for some more places (or Salar, if not on Sat). And then leave Monday early morning to catch flight.

My old notes say, not my memory, Laguna Cejar, Altiplanic lagoons south of Lascar volcano...could be Menique & Miscanti around 13,000 ft elev. Also Chaxa . But I believe two days is enough to see it all. My suggestion is to check in San Pedro where the local tours go for the day. For whatever is worth, my observation is most people seldom need acclimatization....but do walk at slow pace at high elev. I hope this helps, a bit more.

Thanks. I'll keep an eye out for that. And if I have the time and energy, will definitely go visit them.. =)

Trip Report:

Easter Island - spent about 4 days there. Fortunately, due to the current political issue, I didn't have to pay any entrance fees to the park. Unfortunately, that meant that I couldn't enter the park before 7 and after 6. Also, the weather wasn't very co-operative. Some of the island's restaurants are extremely expensive. I had an absolutely tasteless mixed salad for more money than a very tasty, stomach filling, sandwich at Club Sandwich restaurant (which I would highly recommend).

San Pedro de Atacama - far too touristy for my taste. Every other shop on the main street seemed to be a tour company offering the same tour as two doors down.

Vehicle stuff:
I flew from Santiago to Antofasgata and then rented a 1-way 4x2 truck to get to San Pedro (truck return at Calama airport after trip). Even though there's only 1 gas station (at San Pedro) its more than enough. Even after driving all the way from Antofagasta to San Pedro and spending day driving around to see some nearby places, I was still only on half a gas tank.
Is 4x4 required? I went to moon valley, death valley road, el tatio geyers, and salar de tara. I would say that I could do the same trip in a regular car. A 4x4 wouldn't be needed.
High-ground clearance vehicle is definitely required if you want to drive through death valley road or to the salar de tara.

Santiago - stay the f away. i was there for 2 days to simply relax, but instead was robbed of all my valuables. all my pictures, camera gear, etc .. GONE. i spent most of my time in Santiago running to the embassy. I did have a tour of some part of Santiago at night in the back of the police car. I did see a police station on the tour, as well as a hospital.

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