skipping the tourist track

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<hr>where does one go in lima to see the country and avoid major tourist destinations.<hr></blockquote>

I suppose you mean Peru.
Well, you said it yourself: by missing the tourist destinations you may also miss quite a few highlights. But there are also plenty of highlights along other routes. For example if you travel from Lima to Cusco via Huancayo, Huancavelica, Ayacucho, Andahuaylas, and not via Arequipa and Puno, then you will not encounter many other tourists at all. This route could include traditional markets and villages, a ride on an old wooden train (Huancayo - Huancavelica, only 13 Soles for luxury seat), natural mineral bath, various archeoligical sites (near Ayacucho and Andahuaylas), beautiful lakes, and Ayacucho is a beautiful colonial town with many Peruvian students. See my pictures of this route here.

Also the north of Peru is way less visited. I really enjoyed Chavín de Huantar (very old pre-incan ruins, nice hot springs to soak in). Have not visited other parts in the north unfortunately.

If you still want to see Machu Picchu then you could choose alternative hikes to get there other than the classic Inca Trail. Or take a train there, put up with the hordes for a few days, then go off the beaten track again.

In Bolivia Sorata is well worth a visit. Some tourists go there but not as many as to other places. It's a good base for hikes and a pleasant village in its own right.

Remember that in general it's quite easy to get off the beaten track. Even in a town like Pisac which is flooded with tourists visiting the market, if you stray a few streets away from the market you will be the only gringo in those streets and you may come across some interesting things to see, or people to chat with. Be curious, wander around.
And for example the Colca Canyon (condors, hot springs, quaint villages) also has many local tours doing trips there, but you could decide to take public transport there and do some hikes in solitude.

But also remember: the touristy sites are not touristy for nothing.... they are genuinly interesting and fascinating to see.

Have fun, suerte,
Cecilia

Like Cecilia says... touristy sites are that way for a reason. There is something of interest and value to see. In your case, get a couple of Peru guide books and a big Peru map. Every town that gets a mention... cross it off. Only visit the rest. There will still be lots of little villages in remote areas with nothing but a collection adobe huts without recognizable bathrooms, vicious dogs and children with gaping sores. But no huge buildings or tourists to bother you.

I think MP is worth a visit but the classic inca trail is overpriced and overrated.Lots of people do it and say its amazing but in general they are people that dont normally go treking. There are lots of other better treks in Peru and Bolivia for a fraction of the cost. Alternate routes to MP is a good suggestion also as they will be less crowded. I think it is worth visiting MP now though as it may get even harded to visit in the future.

One thing already, Bolivia is much less touristy than Peru.

the north of peru is quite untouristy, as it s out of the southern tree week gringo loop. Very interesting places, very friendly locals, low prices. good advice above too.

North Peru

thanks for the responses.

i guess i wondered how big of a mistake it would be to travel all the way to south america and not see something like machu picchu. these responses are very helpful and i appreciate them.

thanks. gus

it is not abig mistake - MP is very nice, but also very touristy. there are tons of other treks that are better, but the ruins are unique though. then again - a lot of other things in the world also. only reason I'd give to visit MP is that it's quite likely it will be way more difficult/expensive in the very near future. and that's a good reason.

In my opinion, if you visit Sacsayhuaman, Pisac and Ollantaybambo, you've got an excellent sample of Inca ruins even if you miss MP.