yes, the trek back is a little intense for a moment or two. you do arrive in Cocacchimba a bit shattered!!
true re the terminals. got to do your research before going there. its a great testament to travelling in Peru when they come and find you when you were about to miss the van and then ensure you get to your trail head.
ah yes, I have given up on Tingo as a start point for Kuelap. a fellow traveler here advised that hike is nothing special, boring, laborious - only for the physical challenge.
Maria is a far better departure point to enjoy Kuelap I believe...
thanks again for everything, great to get first hand experience live - so to speak!