Ok, so since I've received some sound advice on the TT in the past, I feel it's only fitting to make an endorsement for an incredible travel experience with very little (or I should say of any consequence) written info about it out there... This is really intended for those in the planning stages that are either short on time, as this can be booked last minute, or those who are looking for a bit more adventure than the standard fare (aka the inka trail).
I should also mention that this trek should probably only be attempted if all of these apply:
1) it is NOT wet season (shouldn't even be considered from October to April as landslides take out sections of the trail (often the high passes on cliffs) and river crossings become absolutely impassible since only the apurimac has a bridge)
2) this isn't your first trek
3) you're not alone (guides take a min of 2)
4) you're in decent shape (percentage wise, more people turn back on this trek than any other in peru)
5) you're not afraid of heights (some pretty intimidating passes)
6) you want to not see any other travelers (other than locals) for 4 or 5 days (the "inka trail" is slightly less crowded than your local supermarket)
Not to detour anyone, but here are some facts that agencies seem hesitant to divulge since they might hinder business. This trek, for both my friend and I, was the best and most challenging travel experience of our lives. Our guide estimated that it's about 220 km, or about 30 km a day. If this sounds too intimidating know that there was a couple several days in front of us that took a couple more days to space things out. Our guide also told us last year he had a champion runner from the States and her husband turn back after day 2 (probably the last decent day to head back if you were to consider it) because things became too much. We hiked rather quickly comparatively and as a result were able to start an hour later than normal since we'd be making up the time, however the great thing is that a good guide will go at whatever pace you want. If you are start slowing down, know that you're probably going to be in good hands and that your guide is there to follow your pace. Trail width ranges from 4 or 5 feet wide (first 2 days to Choqueguirao) down to 1 or 2 feet wide (days 3-6) until you meet up with the end of the Salkantay trek where it becomes wide again. Much of the trail between the sites is simply farmer or old inca road which to us was very exciting. For example, we camped in the grazing yard of a lady in traditional garmits (not just for the tourists) who only spoke Quechua (a few words in Spanish) and had chickens and goats and you name it pecking and grazing next to the tent. You see just about every kind of vegetation there is. Temperatures swung from about 20F to 90F during our trek, but was also invigorating and motivation in the early morning to get the hard part of the trekking done in the morning so that the afternoon's could be enjoyed admiring some of the world's best scenery. The views, almost everyday, were the most breathtaking I'd ever seen, about 30 countries and 4 continents, and you're there absolutely by yourself. Doesn't get more "off the beaten path," and the sense of personal accomplishment was quite honestly unlike I'd ever felt.
Guides often are reluctant to take on this trek because of it's difficulty, but it seems less for their own personal safety and more for taking their hikers that far from medical facilities. They simply don't have any knowledge of the trekkers abilities prior to leaving. Horses have also fallen off the narrow and steep passes which couldn't have been a pleasant experience for anyone. Many choose to stay on the inca trail, which our guide explained is more like chaperoning and keeping track of everybody in the crowds than anything else....but to each their own! We paid pretty much for shared service, but because the trek is so uncommon were able to go it alone. However our guide, his "assistant", an outstanding cook, and a horseman who we all around 30 years old all made the trek with us along with 3 horses for just the 2 of us...Talk about getting your money's worth!!! The comaraderie between all of us was great, we made some great friends, ate well, didn't get sick, traveled safely and tipped well.....everybody won.
Choquequirao is really a fantastic place. Although it's still mostly covered by dense brush, the terraces go on forever. And while it has fewer buildings than MP, the terraces once all uncovered will make it a larger complex than MP. The terraces there were also some of the steepest we saw. Some of them near the bottom are so steep that it not only begs the question how did they ever build them, but almost makes you feel sorry for the fellow tending his crop down there. While the locals refer to the incas as "loco" and definitely not afraid of any height, that guy tending the bottom terrace definitely had to have a couple scary moments. Most groups who visit come via Cachora and head back the way they came. There were only 3 groups on the whole site that day and all stayed on the former terraces (also the only flat spot around!!!) Day 1 is rather easy and day 2 is 6 hours switchback up a cliff. Definitely hard but what's waiting for you at Choque is about as good of motivation as there is.
Days 3 thru 6 are the hardest, narrowest, steepest, coldest, hottest and prettiest days. We have so many stories from them that it would take forever to write, but I'll just guarantee from a scenery standpoint it's hard to find better in both Peru and the planet. In particular for me, was the afternoon after Yanama pass down to the little village that shares it's name. It really feels surreal, like something out of a dream, and in no way is photographable. And I suppose the old cliche about words not applying also comes to mind....
And for MP itself, it's every bit as magical as they say it is. Coming from the middle of nowhere it's going to feel like a zoo, and there are TONS of people, but the magic is no less lost.....it truly shouldn't be missed in one's lifetime. As for it, you can probably read enough about it elsewhere to make your eyes bleed so I'll let that one go. But know that arriving there via a trek like this one adds to the experience of the moment. And we felt a little bit that we had earned the privledge, because we'd sort of lived the spartan (or in this case the incan) trekking (and cliff/mountain-dwelling) lifestyle, to see such a magical place....
Thanks for that post!
I'm thinking about hiking Chocoquiero, but I was looking for more information first...
How long did th total hike take, 6 days? (You have to hike both up and down, right?)
Also, can you hire out all of your equipment(tent, sleep roll) and put it on a mule?
And when you say the path was 1-2 feet wide, do you mean it was 1 foot of path and then ravine below? Like if you lost your footing once you'd fall?
Did you feel like it was dangerous, or just challenging?
I'm asking because this is a trek that I would LOVE to do, I'm just not sure if I'm fit enough to do it.
Thanks so much!
This is the best website I've found for info on Choquequirao: http://www.besthike.com/southamerica/peru/choquequirao.html<BR><BR>We hiked for 7 days with the last day spent at MP (so they call that 8D/7N). I'd say that's about the fastest an outsider would want to try.....locals of course have their own speed. Days 1 & 7 were rather easy, 2 & 6 were moderate, and 3 thru 5 were difficult. That seems to be the typical amount of time given (or also +1 day), but again I think if more time was needed, a good guide would understand and take it...no questions asked.
There is a lot of both up and down and not too much flat, but that's all part of the challenge. This trek, more often than not (at this time), goes up a mountain then down the backside because the river valleys drop too sharply into the river to make them a passable route. But as you can imagine, makes for some killer views.
You could potentially put all your gear on a horse, although you're probably only going to be alloted 5-7 kilos per traveler. You'll want to pack lightly. We put our large pack on the horse, and carried a day pack mainly for a camelbak filled with water......you'll need lots of it!
This is kind of hard to answer. You certainly won't get a straight answer from a travel agency seeking your business. There are brief dangerous sections, as in many long hikes, but if taken cautiously (which they'd almost certainly be) everyone will come out just fine. There are no guardrails except for a few your first two days, but the 1-2 foot wide paths are usually found on the switchbacks and not on the cliff passes. These are usually a little wider and often have old Inca gold mines right there as well. But again, someone afraid of heights might not enjoy these. I'd say all in all, there's more challenge than feeling like your life is in danger.
You need to be a good hiker and in good shape, but it's not like it's an ironman contest or something like that either. Mentally, you have to be willing to climb that next mountain. If you're up for trying something off the beaten path and more challenging than what everyone else is doing, this'll probably be the most rewarding way to get to MP. BTW, mention it casually to anyone at MP who's heard of it (we did it by accident) and you'll immediately get kudos.....which felt great. Best of luck, wherever you end up going.
Other posts asked the entrance fee. An official guide at the National Guides Congress in Cajamarca recently mentioned a 2nd, shorter (In distance) but more difficult (long steep uphill route) to Choquequirao.
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