I used this link extensively before my trip, and am much indebted to those who contributed to it. Now, coming back from my own trip, it is payback time. So here are some pointers which might help future travelers to magnificent-Colombia.
A general point for starters: While I did not find the 2006 LP inaccurate in principle, prices (in Dollars) quoted in it are up to 50% higher at the moment. This is probably due to the Dollar’s weakening since the book was published.
Bogotá
- The Gold Museum is closed for renovations. A small and very partial exhibition of its collection is open to public, free of charge, in the building next to the Donacion Botero.
- Hostal Sue, now spreading over three different locations, became as popular as the legendary Platypus. However, the atmosphere in it is very youth-hostel like, so if you don’t like such (say if you are 30+) better look for somewhere else to stay.
- Salsa Camara in the Zona Rosa, open Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, is an excellent place for salsa dancing.
- Some cabbies tend to take longer than necessary routes, in order to up the price of the ride. Ask the cab driver in advance how much the trip would approximately cost, in order to avoid such.
- The departure tax is not in effect anymore for travelers who stay in Colombia for less than a month.
Villa de Leyva and vicinity:
- The hike to Iguaque is indeed very nice, but the entrance fee to the Park for foreigners is three times higher than for locals (25,000 pesos, versus only 7,000 for the world-famous San Agustin archeological park). If such irritates you, take the trail which starts roughly behind Villa de Leyva’s Hospedaje Duruelo and meanders for many kilometers up the hills; and is not less varied and beautiful than the trail in the Park while costing nothing.
Barichara:
- There are quite a few not-expensive posadas in town (not mentioned in the guidebook) - which one needs to ask around in order to find. I, for instance, stayed at Posada Doná Flor, directly opposite to the Coratan Hotel.
Bucaramanga:
- There are two salsa clubs, a more posh one in the Hotel Chicamoche and a livelier one, Cali Son, on Calle 33.
Mompos:
A local guy named Jose (regrettably I did not retain his surname) walks around town and offers a 3 hour walking tour for 10,000 pesos. His tour is actually very good, taking one into impressive colonial houses which in principle are closed to the public.
Medellin and vicinity:
- Hotel Bella Villa in 50-28 Maracaibo St. (Calle 53), offers much better value than the hotels mentioned in the guidebook.
- Santa Elena and vicinity, about an hour away from Medellin bus station, is a very charming village surrounded by many woods.
- For night life, the area of no. 70 and San Juan streets (Estadio metro station) is a good alternative to El Poblado´s Zona Rosa. I visited two salsa places, Tibiri on 70 St. and Rumbantana on San Juan, and much liked the latter. Note that salsa here is danced in a very different way than the Cuban or the US styles - a lot of fast footwork, and very few turns and spins.
- The El Peñol monolith actually lies between the towns of El Peñol and Guatape. Ask the buss driver to get off at the La Piedra (rather than at El Peñol).
Salento and the Valle de Cocora hike (from Cocora to Akaime):
- Salento has a fine Mirador overlooking the valley beneath it. To reach it go up the stairs at the end of main street, which lead to the top of the hill. Close to the top there is a paved path going down the other side of the hill, which leads to the Mirador.
- Most of road from Salento to Cocora is paved by now (the price of the jeep ride accordingly dropped to 3,000 pesos). The road is actually surrounded by beautiful scenery, and makes for a very pleasant 2 hour walk.
- The hike: It is not necessary to return from Acaime to Cocora the same way one came. Instead climb the (somewhat steep) trail to Finca la Montaña, and from there take the dirt road to Cocora, this way enjoying a different - closer - perspective of the magnificent wax palm trees.
Cartagena and Popayan:
- Both have lots of old colonial houses, most of them closed to the public. Luckily both also have many academic institutions, which are located in such houses, thus facilitating a visit there.
Tierradentro:
- If you stay in San Andres, visiting the tombs in ´reverse´ direction (El tablon first and the museum last) makes good sense. Ask locals for directions as the explanations in the LP guidebook leave much to be desired.
San Agustin:
- Casa de Neli is indeed an attractive place to stay in and good value for money (10,20 pesos per person, o/w bath). Its main drawback, though, is that reaching it involves walking for about 20 minutes on a ill light dirt road. This makes going to town and returning at night quite unpleasant. A good alternative is Hotel Jardin on Carr 11 near the long distance bus stop (10,15 pesos o/w bath).
Silvia:
- The Tuesday market activity starts quite early (around 6 AM) – sleeping in Siliva on Monday night thus provides an opportunity to see how the very tranquil town gradually turns into a bustling marketplace.
I will be happy to try and answer specific question. Please e-mail to: ymargoni@bankisrael.gov.il
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