Patagonia in May/June

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Patagonia in winter is a seriously awesome thing. Logistically it can be challenging to get out to some places, especially the mountain roads which completely lack public transport in the winter. However, having been all the way to Ushuaia in August (Mid-winter) I know just how possible and rewarding it is.
First thing is the weather will be cold. Not actually as cold as Bolivia's altiplano, but it will be wet as well and snowy in the highlands. That is great for scenery etc. but it can mean places such as Bariloche getting snowed in. When I went I was going the opposite way. I travelled from Chile into Bariloche - unless you ski your options there are limited and if you do not ski you will be annoyed by the Brazilian ski bunnies who over-run it. That does mean all the usual hostels etc. are open, but Brazilians are culturally, well, a noisy bunch of people so you had better hope you are in it for the skiing! The landscape there looks beautiful in the snow though, and it is a nice little town to be in. There is a great steakhouse at El Boliche de Alberto though that is worth going to Bariloche just to eat in. Oh, and the chocolate of course. The pass from Chile (Osorno) into Argentina was hairy - we had to put snow chains on and I think they shut it after I crossed it, and Bariloche was cut off from the rest of Argentina for a few days because of the snow. Fun! I left on the last possible day (It got snowed in afterwards) and headed across to the Atlantic Coast (Loads of buses, most empty!) to Trelew and from there to Gaiman, a bizarre Welsh village. I actually stayed the night there in a B&B (Not necessary, but I am a Cymruphile!) but there were very few tourists around. The tea-shops are all open though (After 3 as per tradition) so it is worth a day trip if you like cake or Welsh things, or just want a proper cup of tea and do not want a funny look when you ask for it "with milk" "Con leche." After Gaiman I got the bus to Puerto Madryn (Again, there are loads of these) to see the Whales and the Valdes Peninsula. June, July time is just coming into whale season but I would strongly recommend giving the peninsula a miss then because most of the other marine wildlife (Elephant seals, orcas, penguins etc.) will not be around. The year-round wildlife will be but I have a far better recommendation coming up if you want to see Guanacos, Rhea and Mara etc. Best thing is to head to Puerto Piramides and take a boat trip into the gulf to see the whales, but I could not tell you how active they would be at this time of year (I went in August, a month after you are planning). The YHA in town is a great hostel and will be fairly quiet so, again, no troubles with accommodation. I then went down the Atlantic coast to Río Gallegos (Which I went through three times without stopping!), an easy if long journey of 18 hours. Because it is coastal there are not often delays on the route and plenty of buses take it, just less than at other times of the year. From Gallegos I did a quick change and caught the first bus I could over to El Calafate ( That was a long journey: from Puerto Madryn to El Calafate was around 23 hours in total ). Perito Moreno is now a year-round destination so there are no problems getting buses, tours, accommodation and food. I then headed down to Ushuaia, via Río Gallegos - yet another killer journey (I recommend spending a long time in each place). Ushuaia is another ski place and has other winter sports ( Like dog-sledding! ) so you will have no difficulty finding a place to stay. You can also get a bus to the national park, and it is a wonderful place to be in its element in the winter. From Ushuaia I took buses to Punta Arenas in Chile and then on to Puerto Natales (My butt hurt after all this incidentally). Puerto Natales in absolutely dead in winter - a real ghost town but this is the best time of year to see wildlife in Torres del Paine National Park. It can be hard finding somewhere to stay and to get a tour but we saw herds of guanaco, huémel (very rare Patagonian deer), condors, rhea, foxes and all sorts! Forget hiking there in winter though. And be careful if you get a bus over the border to Río Turbio - I nearly got stuck there, so I would recommend heading on to El Calafate if you go to Torres del Paine, or if you are feeling flush and have good sealegs you could always get the Navimag. As for the Fitzroy Range - that is the one thing I did not see. I believe it is open and there are sporadic buses up there in the winter but we are talking about three a week, if that. All I can say (After that huge exposition) is that if you want to see Patagonia in winter then go. People will think you are mad but they have no idea what they are missing because it is a phenomenal place. Forget Peru and Bolivia - Patagonia is South America at it is most breath-taking and seeing it in winter only adds to its appeal (Although admittedly I have not been there in the summer).

Wow thank you for the very thorough guide! Looks like I'm going anyways. Great to hear it's actually logistically possible.

I have a tricket for Buenos Aires on April 21st and I plan to spend about two months there travelling around Patagonia. I'd like to go to el Chalten, El Calafate and further South. BUT I realize this is off season and I've heraf it's very difficult to travel around Patagonia in the Winter because hotels are closed and transportation is very limited in the Winter too. Is this true? Anyone has experience travelling Patagoina in May/June?

Have you decided if you are going to Patagonia in June? I am going to be in Argentina from June 15th and would love to see The Glaciares very much.

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