Hello Helpful Thorn Tree Members:
My husband and I are planning to visit Argentina and Chile in early October for about 3 weeks. We've found flights down to Santiago for under $600 a piece. Our total budget for the trip is about $3200. I've been trying to plan an itinerary, but I've become overwhelmed in my attempts to negotiate distance, sights, time and money. We had planned to fly into Santiago and travel down to Patagonia, crossing in and out of Chile/Argentina by bus (as I heard this was the most convenient route), and then back up to Buenos Aires, probably by plane. I'm not sure if this is best or even feasible, taking into account budget and time. Does anybody have any recommendations as to best routes/transportation options, what spots are not to be missed, & whether or not we're attempting too much? We wanted to get an overview of the area, as opposed to spending longer periods in just a few spots. Thank you....
P.S. If it's helpful, we enjoy it all (except for some of the more strenuous hikes/climbs), are planning to stay in budget hostels/hotels and B&B's, and do not plan on camping.


Previous reports:
If you are simply transiting internationally at Santiago then you do not have to pay the reciprocity fee. I have done this a number of times, and only ever pay when actually entering Chilean territory via the airport border. As you know you do not need to pay the fee at land border. Having previous stamps in your passport makes no difference though, you still need to pay ( I have 14 Chile stamps, and still had to pay last time I went through the airport ). I actually like the sign they have saying "We welcome all people to our country free of charge, we only charge the citizens of countries whose government charges Chilean citizens to visit their country". I have paid the fee three times and chuckled to myself each time.
The fee does not apply if you stay in transit. The transit lounge is upstairs on the same level as you arrive when you leave the plane. If you go down the escalator then you will be heading to enter Chile. Remember that the reciprocity fee is only a kind of recompense for the exorbitant fees your governments charge Chileans for a visa.
The reciprocity fee pertains to Americans as well as Canadians entering Chile. In the case of Americans, it is US$ 100.00 but you get a visa valid for the life of the passport.
I am pretty sure that the fee is not for the life of the passport (for Australians at least). I first flew to Santiago in 2001 and had to pay it then. I went back to Santiago in 2003 and had to pay again (I showed them the stamp/receipt from 2001 but had to cough up again). I am not looking at the stamp in my passport right now, but from memory it said 90 days.
The reciprocity fee is US$56.00 for Australian passport holders and good for 90 days. Australia is the exception to the life of passport rule.
The reciprocity fee is not affected by where your flight originates from. If you are a US citizen and arriving in the Santiago airport on an international flight, you will have to pay the fee before passing through immigration. The only exception is that you have paid it before while using the same passport; the fee is good for the life of your passport. This fee is not charged when entering Chile overland.
Australia - 56.00 US$.
Canada --- 132.00 US$.
USA ----- 100.00 US$.
Mexico --- 15.00 US$.
Jorge Daniel Barchi.
Buenos Aires.

Bus trips. Time taken.
Santiago-Mendoza: 7 hours.
Santiago-Puerto Montt: 14 hours.
Puerto-Montt-Bariloche: 7 hours.
Puerto Montt-Punta Arenas: 36 hours.
Punta Arenas-Ushuaia: 12 hours.
Punta Arenas-Puerto Natales: 5 hours.
Puerto Natales-Torres del Paine: 2 hours.
Puerto Natales-Calafate: 5 hours.
Calafate-Rio Gallegos: 4 hours.
Rio Gallegos-Buenos Aires: 36 hours.
Rio Gallegos-Ushuaia: 12 hours.
Bariloche-Mendoza: 20 hours.
Mendoza-Salta: 20 hours.
Salta-Iguazu: 26 hours.
Mendoza-Buenos Aires: 14 hours.
Buenos Aires-Iguazu: 18 hours.
Buenos Aires-Salta: 20 hours.
Buenos Aires-Mendoza: 14 hours.
There are no direct buses from Bariloche to Calafate.
Jorge Daniel Barchi.
Buenos Aires.

Airlines in Argentina.
Aerolineas has prices for residents and non-residents. It also has different fares for travellers arriving in Argentina via Aerolineas and for travellers arriving in Argentina via any other international airline. There is no way to get around it as they ask for your papers when you check in. Unless you live in Argentina and have the right ID you will have to pay the non-resident price. This is why the web site says something about country of origin. So you need to be careful when you get quotes that they are for non-residents and also be clear whether the quote is in dollars or pesos.
Round-trip flights from Buenos Aires for travellers arriving in Argentina via Aerolineas Argentinas taxes included:
Iguazu ---- 354.00 US$.
Salta ----- 422.00 US$.
Ushuaia -- 374.00 US$.
Calafate -- 357.00 US$.
Mendoza -- 374.00 US$.
Bariloche -- 482.00 US$.
One-way flights:
Calafate-Trelew --- 164.00 US$.
Ushuaia-Calafate -- 133.00 US$.
Calafate-Bariloche -- 264.00 US$.
Buenos Aires-Rio Gallegos -- 122.00 US$.
Round-trip fares from Buenos Aires for travellers not arriving in Argentina via Aerolineas:
Trelew -- 422.00 US$.
Salta ---- 548.00 US$.
Iguazu -- 458.00 US$.
Calafate - 464.00 US$.
Ushuaia ---- 486.00 US$.
Mendoza --- 486.00 US$.
Bariloche --- 625.00 US$.
One-way fares:
Calafate-Trelew --- 254.00 US$.
Ushuaia-Calafate -- 192.00 US$.
Calafate-Bariloche - 343.00 US$.
Buenos Aires-Rio Gallegos -- 284.00 US$.
When there is not high demand Aerolineas Argentinas uses the Natalia fare for foreigners independently of which carrier they arrive in Argentina.
Round-trip Natalia fare from Buenos Aires (The one-way fare is half the amount given here):
Iguazu ---- 240.00 US$.
Calafate --- 241.00 US$.
Ushuaia -- 253.00 US$.
Mendoza -- 253.00 US$.
Bariloche -- 325.00 US$.
Gallegos -- 243.00 US$.
One-way Bariloche-Calafate --- 277.00 US$.
One-way Calafate-Ushuaia --- 158.00 US$.
Aerolineas Argentinas´phone numbers around the world:
Madrid: 900-955-747
Australia: 9234-9000
USA: 1-800-333-0276
London: 0800-0969-747
Germany: 0800-1844-747
Argentina: 0810-222-8652
LAN Argentina return fares from Buenos Aires:
Iguazu ------ 238.00 US$.
Cordoba ---- 184.00 US$.
Calafate ---- 240.00 US$.
Ushuaia ---- 252.00 US$.
Mendoza --- 252.00 US$.
Bariloche --- 323.00 US$
Rio Gallegos -- 513.00 US$.
Comodoro Rivadavia - 474.00 US$.
One-way Calafate-Ushuaia -- 90.00 US$.
Buenos Aires - Salta.
Andes Airline.
Maria Laura Chibán
Andes Lineas Aereas
0810-12226337 extension 610
lchiban@andesonline.com
Round-trip fares
1) 256.00 US$.
2) 269.00 US$.
3) 283.00 US$.
www.andesonline.com
Jorge Daniel Barchi.
Buenos Aires.

Previous reports:
Colonia is a one-off. One of my favourite places on Earth.
Colonia del Sacramento is a town in Uruguay 60 kms across the River Plate estuary from Buenos Aires. The one-way boat trip takes 3 hours. The old part of this town is actually a Unesco world heritage site. We spent a couple of days wandering around the cobble stone streets, drinking cappucinos and eating good food. It was perfect after the crazy days of travelling; a slow pace was just what we needed. Would you believe that you can rent golf carts to cruise around town?. This place is quaint, definitely with a European flair, very laid-back and beautiful.
* If you are in Buenos Aires for a while and feel the need to escape the hustle and bustle of the big city just for one day, you might consider taking the ferry across the River Plate to Colonia, Uruguay. Not only will it get you another stamp in your passport. You will also have the opportunity to explore a totally charming town that is a Unesco World Heritage site. The historic barrio of the former Portuguese colony is excellently well-preserved. Its cobble-stoned streets, secluded courtyards, and many cafés, restaurants, and shops make Colonia a delightful surprise just 60 kms across the river from Buenos Aires. Give yourself an entire day, take the slow boat, and unwind in Colonia. This one-day return trip costs 32.00 US$.
www.buquebus.com</a><BR><a href="http://www.coloniaexpress.com/">www.coloniaexpress.com</a><BR><BR>Jorge Daniel Barchi.
Buenos Aires.