Our original plan was to take some time exploring the Tuxtla region, with a few nights' stay in Catemaco as well as Tlacotalpan. The day before our last night in Tlacotalpan, we took a day trip to Catemaco.
It turned out that one way to Catemaco, which was only around 60 miles, took at least two hours, due to the potholed condition of the roads, and the number of towns, complete with topes, that we had to traverse. So all we really did in Catemaco was have a late lunch by the lake, which was in itself quite pleasant.
We decided that we really didn't want to drive all the way down there and back yet again to only spend one night, so we made an early return to Veracruz the next day.
This time, we stayed at Hotel Diligencias right on the zocalo. This is a very good value at around $50. The staff is very well trained and diligent (they try very hard with their English), and the layout of the hotel is good. The breakfast buffet is quite good (though a bit cramped and not quite up to Hotel Emporio standards). I would stay there again in a heartbeat.
Weather in Veracruz was abominable for these last two nights. A norteño had blown in, and it was cold and extremely windy. Friday night, there was a band playing in the zocalo with some extremely hardy people dancing. Nice to see. I started to walk out to the malecón for one last time, but the wind was so strong in my face that I gave it up!
We had decided to spend our last 3 nights before our return to Puebla in Orizaba, which we had not been to before. We stayed at Hotel Misión. This is a well-run hotel. The only downsides are that it seems a somewhat sterile business-oriented hotel, and the neighborhood it is in, very close to the bus station, does not have a lot of dining options. If I were to stay in Orizaba again, I would probably try to get something closer to the main plaza.
The first night we got here, I took a walk up to the main plaza in the fog. Very atmospheric.
Highlights of Orizaba:
The art museum, which is further over to the east from where we stayed. Got a private tour, complete with a wheelchair for my wife (she can walk but a wheelchair helps keeps her going longer). A very nice museum, highlighting artists from Orizaba who are not well known. Seemingly, the Diego Rivera room was closed. That's OK, I've seen more Diego Rivera than anyone really needs to see.
The Parque Castillo, i.e., the zócalo. The big attraction here is the Palacio de Hierro, designed by Eiffel. It looks way out of place in a Mexican town. You can have coffee here, and take a look at the free museums.
The teleférico, which takes you up to the Cerro del Borrego, and the river walk. The teleférico is a 6 minute trip up to the top of the hill, which gives you some idea of how high it is. Much higher and further, to my recollection, than the one in Zacatecas. Triggered my mild vertigo somewhat, but I wouldn't have missed it. The park on top of the hill has some little attractions like a chapel, a lookout tower, and trails. Oh, and a zip line, what they call a tirolesa. For me, that ain't happenin'! Didn't spend a lot of time on the river walk, but I would like to some time. Not interested in the caged animals, though. All together, well recommended.
The processions for the Virgin of Guadalupe. These came right down the street past our hotel every few hours and we could view them from our balcony. I suspect that the hotel mangement assigned us an exterior room just for this reason. Lots of fun. These are mostly groups of professions, like taxi drivers; companies, like the ones that run beverage trucks; or outlying colonias of Orizaba.
We found a very nice café/bookstore very close to our hotel called El Interior, which I recommend if you are staying in that area.
With respect to food options in that area, the best place for dinner that we found was the restaurant at El Trueba hotel across the street. The menu at Hotel Misión seems a little limited, but breakfast is fine. La Pérgola, recommended in Lonely Planet? Just say no. Trust me on this one. It needs to be removed.
One more note on Orizaba: despite being right among the mountains, the center of town is relatively flat for a wide stretch, so it's not a bad town at all for the mobility-impaired.
All told, I would gladly stay in Orizaba again.
Then, on to Puebla, where we had an early flight, so we stayed in Hit Hotel Aeropuerto again. Had a lovely talk with the young manager.
Would I fly to Puebla again if I wanted to visit this region and could find cheap tickets again? Difficult to say. Mexico City is only about 2 hours away with the airport having direct buses to CAPU, and if you fly into Puebla and want to take a bus you still have to get driven to CAPU some way or another, which probably takes about 30 minutes (the airport is out in Huejotzingo). But if you wanted to rent a car at the airport, it would make a lot of sense.
Now, as promised, a word about bathing arrangements!
Hit Hotel has an absolutely wonderful shower. They have made a very long area for this, making room for a bench for your clothes, towels, or for sitting. This is a godsend for the disabled.
Most other places had showers, not tubs, several with handholds on the walls.
Surprisingly, Hotel Diligencias had a very mundane shower/tub combination.
I will be glad to answer any questions, and will post again if I think of some other interesting details of our trip.
