After A few days I thought I should visit the Mina El Eden, a silver mine in continuous operation from 1548 until the mid 1960s. Apparently by that time, although there was still plenty of silver down there, they began to have problems with flooding down in the shafts and, because they had run out of Indian slaves, this presented a problem. So they shut down operations and converted it into a tourist attraction. Also, on the other side of town, there is a big hill called La Bufa. Up on top of La Bufa is a chapel and a Museum dedicated to the revolution of 1910-1914 (or thereabouts), Zacatecas being the scene of one of Pancho Villa's big battles. The mine and La Bufa are connected by a Swiss built cable-car (teleferico) that runs about half a mile long (if I've converted the metric numbers to regular numbers correctly) and passes over the heart of the city.
The earnest liberal couple from upstairs had visited these sites already and advised me that the pathway up to the top of "El Grillo" (where the mine entrance is located) had 168 stairs. ("You counted them?" "Yes.")
After looking at my map and thinking it over and remembering that the big old pyramid at Chichen Itza only had 91 steps and cosidering that Zacatecas is about 8000 feet higher than Chichen Itza to begin with....I took a little stroll out past the Alameda that evening and discovered that there is a second entrance to the mine that is just a little bit less taxing to access.... Here, you are taken down into the mine in a little train and then, after the guided tour, you can actually take an ELEVATOR to the top of the hill and then just amble over to the cable-car!
So the next day I entered the mine by this means, although it was perhaps the most humiliating experience of my life. Regular admission is 60 pesos. I handed a 100-peso note through the little window to the two nice-looking teenage girls inside. They whispered a little and giggled a bit and then handed me my ticket and 70 pesos change. At first I attributed this to my 'animal magnetism' or perhaps my strong resemblance to Sean Connery (wasn't he People Magazine's "Sexiest Man Alive" just a few years ago?), but after looking over the rate chart again with a bit more care, I came to the conclusion that they must have given me the Senior Citizen Discount!! And they didn't even ask for confirmation of my supposedly advanced stage of decrepitude! (This for a fellow who still frequently pulls out his drivers license and shows it to the clerk when buying alcohol, in anticipation that surely proof will be required). Talk about egregious insult! Outraged, I was! .... But I quickly regained my composure and just smiled and said thank you and swallowed my pride and vowed never, never, to forget...
Anyway, the mine was interesting. There were two Guatemalan couple along for the tour, a family of Mexicans who'd spent the last ten years in Kansas City, a lady who was born in Costa Rica and now lives in Virginia, and an older fellow and his wife who were from San Francisco--but the husband said that his father actually used to work in the mine before the family went north in 1938. So he was telling about how he remembered Zacatecas from his boyhood--no cars on the streets and so forth. But anyway the tour guide gave his presentation in Spanish, but anytime I needed something translated or I had a question, there were plenty of folks to help me get things straight.
The cable-car ride was uneventful and not really scary at all. It was built 27 years ago. I asked if it was still under warranty and the operator made some smarty-pants remark about never being successfully sued or something.
The Pancho Villa Revolutionary Museum costs 12 pesos for admission, but with my recent disgraceful treatment still uppermost in my mind, I naturally inquired about the "descuento de ancianos" and was admitted at half-price. It was very interesting, with lots of old photographs, newspaper articles, and armaments on display. There is also an observation point, with breathtaking panoramic views of the city.
Also, at the very summit, is a mausoleum where several illustrious sons of Zacatecas are entombed. A couple of days later happened to meet a young fellow, Esteban Castorena, whose grandfather is buried up there on La Bufa.
De nada, Like I said, I lost my notebook on the bus, else would have been able to include more detail.
La Bufa means winesack, supposedly in Italian, and when you view it from the city, this huge pitted rock looks like one of those leather winesacks lying on its side. It's the pride of the city, and the first thing any native here will ask you is if you have been to La Bufa.
The marvelous cathedral with it's unbelievably intricate carvings, in this city full of fabulous churches, was allegedly all carved by one stonemason. There is another amazing church that is so pink!, made from the local pink stone.
This is a very small city, but it is packed with wonders of all kinds. This week is the Cultural Festival, and there are exhibitions, concerts, plays, seminars, talks, workshops, street theater going on all over town from 10 AM to the week hours all week. And admission to almost everything is FREE! Artists and musicians come from all over the world to participate.
Marti in Mexico
If you are still there during this upcoming weekend, the desfile de silencio (silent holy parade) is very impressive. And the next day there is a wonderful festival in Jerez that involves lots of vaqueros dressed in their finest on beautiful dancing horses, parading through the town and as the day goes on and the cerveza flows, lassoing the effigies that are hanging in the streets. Of course, these effegies are full of fireworks that explode as everyone ducks for cover. Great fun for all! Also lots of great roving bands of musicians, festival queens (of course!)
the exact dates of this festival in Jerez may change, but it is always sometime during the semama santa season, people in Zacatecas would know, I am sure. Here is a video I took when I was there 3 years ago.video of festival in Jerez
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