Mexico City - Areas to Stay, Etc.

Mexico City is a great place to visit. I was there 4 years ago with my wife and 2 girls (aged 10 and 8 years at the time). We travelled everywhere on the subway and buses and never felt uncomfortable. We stayed at the Hotel Cathedral, like some of the other members who have replied, and found the hotel to be both convenient and inexpensive (pay cash for a 10% discount). We spent several weeks exploring the city, day trips to surrounding areas and longer trips to visit cities a little further away (Taxco and Puebla).

Zona Rosa is not a very nice place to stay. Its safe enough, but very commercial, feels extremely dated (its got this dumpy 80's feel to it), and at night largely caters to those looking for prostitutes, gay men, and unknowing tourists.

Condesa and Coyoacan are the probably the two prettiest parts of the city. They both have character, and are fun places to hang out at night. Unfortunately, someone else will have to help you out with hotel recommendations in these areas.

The centro historico of course has a lot going on in the day time, but I found it kind of deserted the couple of times I was in the area at night. But with all the history, museums, and the simple fact that it is the center of everything that happens in Mexico, I can see the appeal of staying in the area.

Please don't worry too much about all the stories about the crime. Stay away from deserted streeets at night, don't wander off by yourself into areas that look dodgy, you know, just take the standard precautions. And if you need a cab, just stop into any hotel, and they will be happy to call you one free of charge (I have done this many a time, and never had a problem).

Centro Historico is probably the very last district you should direct your friends to - most of what there is to see/do in the city is not located there (though we don't know their specific interests). The reason you'll see heavily-armed military patrolling some of the streets, or other policemen wandering about, isn't because they have nothing better to do or the city has money to burn. The crime problem is real, not imagined, and people professing otherwise and who claim to know the city do you and your friends a disservice. Centro Historico is fine in the daytime, almost deserted after 9 p.m., and poorly lit.

If your friends are the types who'll not go out after dark, or travel everywhere in the zone (at night) by secure taxi - then it's doable . . . but I don't imagine it will be an enjoyable stay. That part of the city is no place for someone with their "training wheels" attached trying to figure things out on a dark street. Adventurous folks might be okay with the higher risk level - only they can say.

I'll suggest you concentrate on a hotel for them somewhere along Paseo de la Reforma (the Hotel Casa Blanca, as one example) or in Colonia Roma (Hotel Milan, as one example) or Colonia Condesa (such as at Hotel Roosevelt). There are also a couple or more places close to or at your budget point on the fringes of the Zona Rosa district (I'm thinking Hotel Sevilla is one, but I need to check the name; Posada Viena Hotel is another, and if the Holiday Inn in the renovated hotel it now occupies, or Hotel Del Principado; maybe Suites Angel nearby will have a special room rate).

From #11:

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<hr>Zona Rosa is not a very nice place to stay. Its safe enough, but very commercial, feels extremely dated (its got this dumpy 80's feel to it), and at night largely caters to those looking for prostitutes, gay men, and unknowing tourists. <hr></blockquote>
Obviously, you've not been to the Zona Rosa in some years. Your description has a mid-90's feel to it - outdated . . . and wrong.
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<hr>Condesa and Coyoacan are the probably the two prettiest parts of the city. They both have character, and are fun places to hang out at night. Unfortunately, someone else will have to help you out with hotel recommendations in these areas. <hr></blockquote>
There are many pretty parts of the city. Condesa is nice, and commercial; the place to see and be seen - on a budget (as compared the ultimate see and be seen, Polanco). Coyoacan is a large delegation - some of it ratty; the part tourists visit is congested and often offensively commercial. On weekends, think Bourbon Street . . . and you get the picture of the squares at San Juan Bautista church - the area is one of Mexico City's most highly over-rated places.
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<hr>. . . the simple fact that it [Centro Historico] is the center of everything that happens in Mexico<hr></blockquote>
Hardly.
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<hr>Please don't worry too much about all the stories about the crime.<hr></blockquote>
Bad advice given to someone who's unfamiliar with the city/area - likely to lead them to trouble.

You don't say when this visit is planned for. The timing could affect recommendations (holiday periods, concerts in Centro, political demonstratons, etc., etc.). Also, typically . . . it rains a lot in Mexico City, almost daily (mostly mid/late afternoons), during the period mid-May through mid-September and sometimes it's a strong rain (and sometimes just for an hour or two, but sometimes all evening/night). When the rains start the temperature drops - by as much as 10-15 degrees F., quickly (and sometimes by 20 degrees F). Evenings/nights can be cool/damp. Have the friends bring approprate clothing, and umbrellas . . . if visiting Mexico City during the rainy season.

Thanks for the thoughtful responses. Very much appreciated. My friends are going at the end of May (23rd through the 28th). She is really thinking Zona Rosa, so I'm glad you gave more insight to the area.

We'll check out the hotel suggestions as well.

I want to say some things further about the Zona Rosa:

- Five to seven years ago I recommended against staying in the Zona Rosa, but conditions have changed - for the better - and I now think staying there, or adjacent, makes sense for some travelers.
- It's become the city's most vibrant center of live entertainment - rock/pop bands, mariachi, floor shows (music/dance) - on some nights there are 15 places featuring live music concurrently (and you can enjoy these things for relatively little cost).
- It continues to be home to some very nice hotels (probably over your friends' budget level) - more than a dozen, with others bordering.
- There are many restaurants offering varied cuisines and coffee shops - including sidewalk cafe's - from expensive places to Burger King.
- The neighborhood has become the focal point of a rapidly-expanding gay "scene" in the D.F.: coffee shops, clothing stores, dance clubs, bars, hair salons, etc., businesses catering to the gay/lesbian/transgendered community (and anyone else).
- It's home to many business offices and there are lots of people walking about from about 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. (later on weekends).
- The city's police headquarters is located there.
- If your friends enjoy bingo or slot machines, or sports betting, etc., there are three or four very nice mini-casino facilities which have opened in the past couple of years.
- The city's best outdoor antique market takes place every Saturday (and sometimes on a Sunday, too) in Plaza del Angel.
- Mercado Insurgentes, on Calle Londres/Liverpool is one of the overlooked gems in the city: you can buy very good silver jewelry/products from shops in Taxco who have outlets there or a variety of Mexican handcrafts for sale in scores of small shops/stalls.
- Though there are a number of t-shirt/trinket shops - there are more stores selling mens suits, ladies dresses, high-quality shoes/handbags, some of the city's most popular beauty salon's, etc.
- Public transport access is excellent: there's one of the city's most popularly frequented Metro stations, a station of the new Metro Bus, busses that'll take you to the Alameda Central or to the Anthropology Museum, to Polanco and to Chapultepec Park - and to Centro Historico; secure taxi's are readily available.
- The "table dance" clubs that once proliferated (and which some people associated, rightly, with prostitution) are all but gone (with the exception one or two "high class" clubs which remain; the 15+ rat holes that once existed have been shuttered).

One of the advantages presented to travelers visiting Mexico City is the wide-variety of hotels/neighborhoods available for consideration, because "one size" doesn't fit all. It's a win/win situation for us.

I stayed in a nice, high-priced ($250/night) hotel in Zona Rosa last year and found that staff members, other than the maid service of the hotel, were entering our room when we were gone. We discovered several things missing so I advise that you leave nothing valuable in your room, even if you are just walking a couple of blocks to get breakfast. Also, I wouldn't recommend taking any unmarked taxis and when taking official taxis never enter alone, as kidnappings still do happen on a daily basis.

Actually I was just in the Zona Rosa the last year. If commercial is your problem, than this is far and away one of the worst places in the city. How many Sanborns, McDonalds, or VIPS do you find in la Condesa? None. Every street of the Zona Rosa, however, is lined with these. Either you are choosing not to notice this, or you are blind. And if you think that young, in the know Mexicans like to hang out in Zona Rosa, then you are seriously out of touch as well. If you are looking for a sports bar that will put on repeats of 80's NBA basketball all night; are looking for an up scale prostitute; want to bump into foreigner business men who just stepped off the plane; or are looking for an expensive purse that you could buy just as easily in the states then this is the place for you. (I would go there specifically to look for a football game on TV. I guess if you really need that fix this is the place).

I would love to know specifically which areas you feel are prettier than Coyoacan? There can't be any other streets in the city more beautiful than Calle Sosa. And by the way, bourbon street is full of strip clubs and drunks. You will find neither in the center of Coyoacan (but you might in Zona Rosa). Actually, quite a large amount of families make the trip out, along with teenagers from DF who enjoy the carnival atmosphere. If you don't enjoy being around young people, then you are right, don't come here.

I just can't see how anyone could find any charm in the Zona Rosa, but as an Art History prof once told me, "there's no accounting for taste"

Some comments on your responses:

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<hr>If commercial is your problem, than this is far and away one of the worst places in the city.<hr></blockquote>
The Zona Rosa has been one of the principal "commercial" districts of Mexico City since the early/mid 1960s, at least. This will come as no surprise to people familiar with the city, or that district. There are some condominiums/rental apartments there, but, yes, they're outnumbered significantly by corporate offices, upscale hotels, restaurants, and all of the other things I described in #15. One of the "worst places in the city"? I'll grant you this, you're certainly melodramatic.
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<hr>How many Sanborns, McDonalds, or VIPS do you find in la Condesa? None.<hr></blockquote>
You must keep your eyes closed when you travel, because, once again . . . you're wrong. Colonia Condesa is indeed a very nice place to spend time and I frequently recommend people visit (I don't recall you ever making such a suggestion, though), but the problem is there are few hotels there . . . maybe less than a handful, and the ones I know about (other than the Roosevelt) are high-priced. Lots of good cafe's and restaurants, though, and a nice clothing boutique scene; the area reminds me of the Columbus Ave. neighborhood in NYC in the 80's.
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<hr>Either you are choosing not to notice this, or you are blind. And if you think that young, in the know Mexicans like to hang out in Zona Rosa, then you are seriously out of touch as well. <hr></blockquote>
Again, I suggest you keep your eyes open if you visit the area in the future; don't be afraid to see what's around you. Is the Zona Rosa the preferred or principal area young people go in the D.F.? No, and I didn't say that. But, tens of thousands of young people are in the area on a daily basis, and when there they patronize the businesses. Most people living in the D.F. don't live centrally-located, and it's not easy to travel about at night - so the zone shouldn't be expected to be the center of attention for most people. The Zona Rosa is, undisputedly, though, a center for musical entertainment - bands - and almost all of the people patronizing the many places are Mexican, and young Mexicans. I don't like the rock and roll music I hear being played there, but the places offering it are packed, as are the cantinas and restaurant(s) offering live mariachi, etc. I don't say something's not there just because I don't like the type of music, that's childish. What's there is what I describe in #15 - even though you walked by the places and didn't see and hear those things.
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<hr>If you are looking for . . . an up scale prostitute . . . <hr></blockquote>
You seem fixated on prostitution. Ten years ago the titty/table dance bars and the people trying to drag you into those places as you walked down the streets in the Zona Rosa were obnoxious and truly bothersome . . . and I cited that as one of the principal reasons to avoid the zone . . . back then. But now is now, and I think anyone with their eyes open as they walk around and who has lived in a city before will not see what you claim is taking place. I can, however, understand someone who says they don't like the area because of the obvious presence of many gays (particularly at night) - there's open affection from people walking down the street (kissing, huging, groping, etc., etc.), some wild behavior (very "campy" at times), etc., but folks from big cities are mostly familiar with that now and let it pass, or avoid those areas.
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<hr>I would love to know specifically which areas you feel are prettier than Coyoacan? There can't be any other streets in the city more beautiful than Calle Sosa. And by the way, bourbon street is full of strip clubs and drunks. You will find neither in the center of Coyoacan (but you might in Zona Rosa).<hr></blockquote>
It's no use, you wouldn't recognize those qualities if you saw them, given your other impressions. You seem quickly/easily impressed with the expensive-touristy places - and so be it, that's what your comfortable with. You may have missed my earlier comment that there are many options for visitors to the city - one size/style won't satisfy everyone. I will suggest, though, that next time you walk around the Hidalgo plaza and the park in front of San Juan Bautista in Coyoacan . . . don't be afraid to open your eyes and look around. The center of Coyoacan is nice, and it too is very commercial . . . and that's okay. Apparently you haven't been to the historic center of Coyoacan on the weekend, or you'd understand my reference to Bourbon St.
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<hr>Actually, quite a large amount of families make the trip out, along with teenagers from DF who enjoy the carnival atmosphere. If you don't enjoy being around young people, then you are right, don't come here.<hr></blockquote>
Once again, I have the strong sense that you've not been to the Zona Rosa or that area in many years - or, as I also sense . . . you walk about afraid to see what you're passing by. You'll see many Mexican families in and around the Zona Rosa, at the Angel, on Reforma, walking down Genova, eating in the restaurants, getting on/of the Turibus, buying the McDonalds you seem to dislike so much (but which is very popular with locals in the D.F.) and going to/from the Metro station Insurgentes. Will it be "the" center for family activity, no - and either will Coyoacan.
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<hr>I just can't see how anyone could find any charm in the Zona Rosa<hr></blockquote>
I don't think I described the Zona Rosa as "charming", and maybe you're making reference to someone or something else. I actually prefer, and most often recommend, Colonias Roma/Condesa as places for people to base themselves. I do think, however, that you've got some hang-ups that aren't permitting you to honestly process what you see or that you don't understand Mexico City very well. Nobody is going to like everything about every location - but living in a state of denial – and presenting things so distorted as you’re doing - is a bit silly.

We'll be staying at the Hotel Parque Ensenada in July, when we return from a visit to the US. The hotel is located near the eastern end of Avenida Álvaro Obregón, near the Jardín Pushkin. That's part of Roma Norte, and what we've seen of the Colonias Romas, we have liked.

I'll report back on our impressions.