Part 1 (of several to come)
(Note: This words in this report do not include the Spanish accent marks which provide a correct presentation of the words, because I'm having some diffculty inserting them on the new laptop I have with me.)
I chose to travel from Aguascalientes by Primera Plus first-class service, for which the cost of the ticket was MX$245. It was a 9 a.m. departure because I wanted to get into Guadalajara by Noon. The trip from the hotel to the central bus station took about 15 minutes at a cost of MX$30. I believe the fare should have been MX$20 but I wasn’t in a mood to argue the point and I didn’t what to schlep to the station on a local bus … which I could have done had I wanted to walk the three blocks from the hotel and then struggle with the bag and mochilla on a crowded bus.
The “new” central bus station is clean and efficient and a bit further-out than the “old station” was and we departed maybe 15 minutes late. The trend in Mexico has been, for at least the past decade, to consolidate the bus companies into one central terminal and because of shortages of land for new construction the terminals are most often found on the outskirts of the cities.
When boarding the bus, passengers were offered water or a soft drink, drinkable yogurt and a package of two muffins … placed into a small plastic bag. Seating was comfortable and the bus was only about 1/3 occupied. There were video monitors every two rows and the seats had leg-rests. But for anyone taller than, say, 5’9” the leg-rests are mostly useless because you cannot stretch-out like the ‘little people’ can. I find them a bother and uncomfortable to use. The trip to Guadalajara took about 3 hours.
Upon arrival in Guadalajara, the bus terminals at which are modern and spread-out, I boarded a “Tur” bus (the brand/name of this particular bus company, not to be confused with one of the tour busses) and headed for the city-center. This particular route of the bus has a turquoise exterior color (others are blue). The fare was MX$11. The markings on the windshield should say “Centro” as well as “Zapopan,” or you’re getting on the wrong bus. Contrast that with a ride in a taxi which I believe the cost of which is above MX$200. The trip into the city at that hour, Noon, took about 30 minutes and I got down from the bus at the “Calzada” (de Independencia) parada on Avenida Revolucion. From there it was a 5 “short blocks” walk to Calle Obregon (with Centro Commercial Plaza Alameda on the corner) and another block from there, past Plaza de los Mariachis, to Hotel Janeiro. I hadn’t made advance reservations at the hotel (or at any hotel for that matter). There were, however, a couple of rooms available. One at MX$150 which desk clerk “Mari Chu” (Maria de Jesus) said was basic and without TV and another at MX$210, a step-up in quality and with cable TV. I took the latter. She said I could move the next day if I didn’t like the room. I’ve never before stayed in this section of town when visiting Guadalajara.
The hotel is situated in an older, grittier section of the city. San Juan de Dios. It’s a large market area. Sort of like the grittier sections of Centro Historico+ in Mexico City. Not as risky as +Tepito , but had the hotel been situated a couple of blocks more into the neighborhood I don’t think I would have stayed there. My concern wouldn’t have been for safety during daylight hours but, rather, after dark. Lots of street urchins and other not too comforting-looking guys seemed to be moving about. The hotel is just around the corner from Plaza de los Mariachis (the sound to which I went to sleep each night) and it’s somewhat busy from where the hotel is to both the Plaza and the Calzada. There are maybe another 4 or 5 less expensive hotels in this neighborhood from what I observed when exploring the neighborhood … for travelers who may be looking for that in that type of neighborhood.
My room had no exterior windows facing the street but did have one which opened onto a covered central corridor, a ceiling fan with one speed (resembling an airplane propeller just prior to the plane’s take-off), a so-so bathroom and one wall which had seen water damage. There was a desk, two chairs and a full-sized bed. No bed bugs that I could detect (I do check these days). No roaches, that were obvious. The room and hotel appeared to be well-maintained … given its age and price-point. Oh, there is complimentary WiFi and internet connection which worked well. At MX$210 that’s a plus. Oh, there is complimentary coffee, tea and cookies at the reception area. No parking, though. Maybe at a nearby lot/garage.
I did move the second day and the new room, across the corridor from the first one had an exterior-facing window … overlooking the market area and, conveniently, an antro+ to surpass all +antros which surprisingly closed its doors by midnight. The amenities in the room were the same (as the first) and it was quiet overnight and until about 10 a.m.
The hotel staff were helpful. Other guests were a cross-section of some traveling small business owners, families who’d come to the city to buy goods in bulk at the market and to take home, Mexican tourists looking for inexpensive lodging in the big city. There wasn’t a presence of ladies of the night or their customers. I did observe an occasional boyfriend/girlfriend who’d rent a room for the daytime. But the hotel staff seemed vigilent and the owners were on-site and watching what was happening, daily.
If you like to shop for merchandise offered at low prices, the San Juan de Dios market area is your place. You’ll be very happy there. I didn’t need/want anything but if I do … shoes, clothing, household items, etc., this is where I come to shop. I’ve been here before and I think it’s better today than in previous visits. The only purchase I made was for two reading glasses with stylish hard cases … for MX$60 apiece. Back in Lake Wobegon I see almost similar glasses w/cases going for US$20, each.
After situating myself in the room I walked the several blocks to visit Instituto Cultural de Cabanas ("Hospicio Cabanas"), which has free admission on Tuesdays. I just paid a MX$30 fee for the right to take photographs. I can take only so much of Jose Clemente Orozco’s pain as expressed in his murals, but every so often I refresh my recollection by visiting. I also wanted to update my photo collection.
When it was time to eat I headed for Restaurante La Chata, a long-time favorite of mine. It’s the type of restaurant and level of service, atmosphere, which I believe is disappearing from Mexico. A very traditional restaurant operation. As is customary, there was a line to get into the restaurant. During the 30-minute wait (at 4:15 p.m.) expectant patrons were treated to a show of kitchen help preparing meals and the young men waiters (no waitresses) retrieve their orders. Sometimes receiving a lecture from the senora in charge. The kitchen for La Chata is situated at the very front of the restaurant. It’s the first thing patrons see. It’s an open kitchen. Women in starched white uniforms, hats and hair nets. The scene could easily have been the same during the last generation or two. To lessen the wait and to show its respect towards its patrons waiting (and to make certain nobody gets tired of waiting and walks away), restaurant staff comes around with small, “shorty” bottles of beer. No water. No tea. No Coffee if you don’t drink beer. Just beer. You gotta love it!
I was in the mood for some pozole+. My favorite style of pozole is +verde+ … the Guerrero standard variety. But in this part of the country, Jalisco, I’ve always seen +blanco+ served. In Guadalajara I don’t think there is another choice. Somebody’s probably serving +rojo+ and +verde+, but I do think the norm is +blanco. I take my pozole with chicken and asked the waiter to bring mine with a double portion of the chicken breast meat. Arriving with the medium to medium-large sized portion of pozole (MX$65) was a plate with onions, shredded lettuce, radish and lime wedges. And a small basket of hand-made corn tortillas. I started the meal with a tequila blanco (MX$55) and a bottle of Modelo’s “Estrella” label beer, and washed-down the meal with another bottle (of the beer). No dessert. Background music was old-school … 50s era … musical recordings. The one large room is nicely decorated. The check for the meal came to MX$156, not including the tip.
Returning to the hotel room, I started to regret having stayed there. But, I thought, spend the night and see how you feel in the a.m. And, as I’ve said earlier, I was given the opportunity to change rooms the next morning and all was well. I returned to Centro, walking about, sitting in Plaza de Armas, watching the ‘rich folks’ enter Teatro Degollado for a performance of Mariachi all-stars. Tired from a long day I headed back to the hotel, stopping along the way at the OXXO in the Plaza de los Mariachis only to pick-up one large can of “Sol” beer to take back to my room … at the price of MX$13 … and I started to upload and edit photos I’d taken during the day.
Hotel Janeiro
Calle Alvaro Obregon 95
Centro
Guadalajara, Jalisco
(33) 3617-5063
Website: www.hoteljaneirogdl.com</a>
Restaurante La Chata
Corona 126 (between Juarez and Lopez Cotilla)
Centro
Guadalajara, Jalisco
Website: www.lachata.com.mx</a>
LW

