Campeche/ Yucatan & Quintana Roo

The village of Chan Kom is listed in no guide books I am aware of, but it had a good number of anthropologhical studies done about it over the decades. It is on a southbound road about half way on the highway between Merida and Cancun. As I recall, it is close to the long and ancient Yaxuna-Coba causeway. Probably a local at Chan Kom could give you directions to that.

Check out the Caste War Museum in Tihosuco. Actually, it was a serious race war, but everyone is so polite these days. Most of what is now called Quintana Roo was independent for 50 years, ending in 1901 when the Mexican invaders returned. You will also see a statue of Maya hero Jacinto Pat, there.

Head to Tepich for the statue of Cecilio Chi', one of the more bloodthirsty early heros of that fight for Maya freedom in Mexico.

Oops. This should have said:

Head to Tepich for the statue of Cecilio Chi', one of the more bloodthirsty early heros of that fight for Maya freedom FROM Mexico

FROM Mexico? Thought Yucatan was independent back then--after all they hired the Republic of Texas Navy to patrol their coast.

And I'm sure it's not politically correct to repeat what the US Senate said when they wanted to become part of the US.

Was the the War of the Castes?

I would rent a car and drive... just go where it takes you. Stopping whenever you are moved to do so. Driving through the countryside is always the most interesting and most telling of a culture. It is always the part that can not be easily re-capped for others and photos never seem to do the experiences justice.
I do not have experience in Campeche but live in Playa del Carmen in Q. Roo state and have traveled thourghout the Yucatan state.

I know I am being pretty general but hope this will help in some way.

I would also look for random cenotes. Yes, some will be in travel guides but that is not necessarily a bad thing. Some are still quite pristine even though listed in guide books. But many times you will find signs along the roadside. Not all Cenotes are alike of course. ( Fresh Water Holes... which are part of an underground river system through this region. ) Many are stunningly beautiful. many are great swimming or snorkeling stops. Diving in Caverns are sometimes possible, as well as, cave diving for the cave certified for the deeper caves.

I would go to Merida for its history, it's culture and if you go on a Sunday. Find one of the city squares where the older people gather for salsa dancing Sunday Mornings. So lovely! At least a stop in one of the towns in the Riviera Maya coast. Maybe Tulum to stay in one of the cabanas.

Just a few quick ideas. Enjoy the trip!

The Caste War vs. Yucatecan Independence

Due to then ongoing shenanigans and power grabs by Mexican President Antonio Lopez (de Santa Anna), Yucatan declared independence and was free from 1840-43 and it even defeated a Mexican army sent to subjugate it. However, Yucatan returned to the fold due to economic hardships caused by an embargo and after hearing more false promises. Beginning with January 1846, Yucatan declared independence a second time and remained neutral in the US-Mexican War, which began later that year.

In July of 1847, Manuel Antonio Ay was executed in the Plaza de Santa Ana in Valladolid (another non-touristed site) and the Caste war began with a general uprising. After the Mexican war ended in early 1848, the Yucatecans hired some Alabamians in Mobile who had recently mustered out of the US army to help them fight, giving them promises of land and pay. However, these soldiers did not do as well against the Maya as against the Mexicans and most soon left. The last mention anywhere of the remaining ones has them heading off to defend Bacalar under a Lt. Kelly.

Things went badly and even Merida would have fallen, but for the arrival of planting season. The governor of Yucatan sent letters to Britain, Spain, and the USA, offering sovereignty over Yucatán to whichever first provided enough help to stop the Maya revolt. The US did consider it, but did not respond. In August 1848, Yucatan returned to Mexican control out of necessity.

Then things went badly for the Maya for a while until the arrival of the Talking Cross in 1850. After being galvanized by hope, they managed to hold their own, despite lowered population levels over the decades. What probably signalled the end was when Great Britain stopped most shipments of arms and ammunition from what is now Belize.

It was the Caste War that drove the Yucatecans back and it was a Mexican army that took the capital, Chan Santa Cruz in 1901, effectively ending the conflict.

There are still Cruzo'ob (followers of the Talking Cross) around in their old digs. Consider seeing the Cruzo'ob iglesia near the southern end of Tulum and visiting the Sanctuary of the Talking Cross in Felipe Carrillo Puerto (Chan Santa Cruz).

Try and get to the ruins at Calakmul if you can - they are a bit remote. We hired a car so not sure how (if) you can reach the ruins by public transport. However, it's worth making the effort. When we visited there was no-one else there, it's completely "non-touristy". Climb the huge pyramid in the Grand Plaza (Structure II) for an amazing 360 degree view of nothing but jungle with the odd pyramid poking through here and there.

Merida and Campeche are both fun - try and go on a weekend when the main squares of both places come alive in the evenings with music, stalls, dancing, (even some kind of bingo in Campeche!), and are closed to traffic. It's a great atmosphere and loads of fun.

Other than that, just checking out some of the villages/smaller towns is usually interesting - you get to see a way of life very different to our own and the people are usually really friendly and curious about you. It's always fun to stop for a bite to eat in one of these places - the food is usually tasty and freshly cooked.

When I stayed in Merida I lucked out and stayed at a place, where the owners gave me info on lots of great places to visit. Their website is www.haciendaholidays.com it has lots of info on the Yucatan and if you stay there they will give you even more info on the hidden treasures of the Yucatan.

I spent a night in Chan Kom but it was eight years ago and I honestly can't remember how I got there.

Aside from the work that anthros have done there (and Alicia ReCruz's work focuses on migration to that favorite punching bag of Thorn Treers, Cancun) and the fact that most villagers will be much more used to foreigners in their midst, it's pretty typical of the villages you find in Yucatan's interior.