Lonely Planet™ · Thorn Tree Forum · 2020

Cycling trip report

Country forums / Cuba / Cuba

Just spent 2 weeks cycling in Cuba. We flew in and out of Holguin. We cycled to Baracoa via Mayari, Moa and Maguana Beach. Cycled out of Baracoa on La Farola to Imias and then onto Guantanamo. Needed some beach time so we took a taxi from Guantanamo to Guadalavaca. Then cycled back to Holguin the day before our flight.

The traffic to Mayari was terrible. I had been on part of this road last year but it must have been a weekend. I see now why people consider taking a taxi to Moa. Plus there was a really good headwind the last 30 km or so (to be expected given the direction we were travelling). The next day the traffic finally let up half way between Mayari and Sagua de Tanamo and really let up after Sagua. Then it was a nice pleasant ride into Moa – more pleasant than what I had expected. The first 10 km (?) out of Moa is pretty ugly but nice after that. The road surface is rough but doable on our touring bikes – really glad to be away from the traffic that we had experienced on the 2 previous days.

We spent a night at Maguana Beach. There was a lot of wind so swimming was not possible. There are two casas in this village. Wild rain and wind storm overnight. When we left Maguana we were not sure if the river was passable or not. Got to the river and the bridge was covered but there were a couple people rowing people across the river so fortunately, we could get across.

The rain really started just after we got settled in Baracoa. Waves crashing over the Malecon and heavy rain but there were breaks where we could get out to explore and go to La Trova.

Spent two nights in Baracoa. Might have spent another night but had to take advantage of a good weather day as another heavy rain was coming. Cycled the Farola which was stunning – one of those ultimate roads. Spent the night in Imias. Then onto Guantanamo the next day. In Tortuguilla there are 3 casas and we were tempted to stop as it was hot (not a cloud in the sky) but the beach is not really swimmable. The Guantanamo coast is really lovely to cycle on and has very little traffic.

We decided that we were not going to carry on into Santiago and wanted a few days to relax at a beach. Our Guantanamo casa arranged a taxi. Had an exciting to very exciting ride to Guadalavaca. It was showery/rainy most of the way to Guadalavaca. Found a nice casa to spend 3 nights and had two days relaxing on the beach before heading into Holguin.

This is my fourth cycling trip to Cuba. I found it the hardest given the length of days, traffic and wind. Glad we did it as I have wanted to go to Baracoa for many years. The La Farola is beautiful and loved the Guantanamo coast ride.

Thanks for reporting back. I want to go to Maguana beach (but not on my bike).

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Maguana was really rough. A lot of plastic garbage on the beach. May have been like that because of the weather. We were lucky to have been on our bikes as we were able to cross the river. The other couple at our casa had a rental car and had a long drive back around. Not sure if they made it to baracoa

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Yes thanks, I have been to some of these places you mentioned and have used bikes from the Guardalavaca hotel.

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Good report. I bike quite a bit in my everyday life but have done very little in Cuba. The circuit you have done, I would like to do some day but maybe just by car. Jejeje!

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Great report thanks!

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Yes, Kay, excellent report. Thanks. And yes, I was on Playa Maguana two years ago and hated how trashy it has become. And in a car on the drive between Mayari and Holguin several times last fall and couldn't believe the traffic--definitely not a route I would recommend cycling now. Better to take a taxi from Holguin at least to Mayari, I should think. Or maybe only to Cueto and then via Biran and on to Mayari, etc. Sorry you ran into so much rain, but it sounds as if you had a great trip anyway. That ride over the Farola and along the coast toward Guantanamo--it doesn't get better than that, does it?

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I would recommend taking a taxi to Mayari or even Sagua. There is a casa in Sagua. Last year on a weekend, we were on the road from baguana to Holguin and the traffic was okay. Quite a surprise this year.

I agree it doesn’t get better than The farola and Guantanamo coast. The lack of traffic was wonderful. Scenery was great.

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